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Possible Causes Response
a. Power cord unplugged
b. No power at all
c. If display lighting, temp setting high
d. If temp setting ok, sensors or control board bad
e. Compressor unit malfunctioning
a. Check for power cord plug
b. Check receptacle voltage & fuses
c. Lower temperature setting
d. Call service for replacing sensors or control board
e. Call service for component check
There is no compressor on these units. These units use a Peltier cold/hot module where the cold side faces the heat sink and the fan exhausts the heat side. Another fan sends the cool side into the frig. I have the same unit, I am experiencing the same issue. I was looking to change out the Peltier modules (about $7 each) and try that. I did find a replacement Control Board is about $45 and if the Peltier change doesn't work this may be my next step.
Wine cabinets work off of cycle defrost, so in order to built frost your temperature sensors are not working properly. I would look for corrosion on or in connections to be the fault or problem. Sensors report information to control unit and thats there only job. Its the control unit that dictates function. Look for corrosion to be the problem, clean connection and seal with RTV when connection a corrected.
Do not assume the problem is related to the compressor or the sealed, hermetic system; these types of problems happen only rarely. Your unit may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn't seal tightly, or a defective temperature control.
1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to "cold." Normally, the temperature inside the unit should be about 37 degrees Fahrenheit.
2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the unit are both set to cool.
3) Listen for the compressor fan, where the compressor is located (typically behind or beneath the refrigerator. When the freezer fan is operating, the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time).
4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the unit will offer very little cooling or none at all.
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The 61 WC is a cycle defrost/plate sensing control. If your unit was manufactured before 2001 it will use an electric/mechancal thermostat that has a capillary tube that senses temperature. If it was made after, it will use a solid state control box that has a "thermsitor" sensing temperature and a potentiometer for user input (OFF through 7). If the unit runs constantly, and does not reach desired temperature...it is low on freon due to a leak. This will be evidenced by ice build-up where the freon first enters the evaporator plate and no where else. You will have to have a technician fix the leak and recharge the unit. Don't wait to long to ge this corrected. If the unit runs too long with a low charge it could draw air and contaminants into the system and the compressor will get damaged.
Check your cold control ( thermostat). Is it turned on? If so, is it good? Is it turned up to a colder temperature? If nothing is happening, unplug it. Disassemble the cold control. chances are, there are two wires to it. Twist the two wires together. Plug it back in, making sure that the wires are touching anything. Check the compressor and see if it is running? Is there a fan inside? If so, is it working? If the wires made the compressor and fan, if present, to come on, chances are, the cold control is bad.
You have a faulty cold control (temperature control) The cold control is a
temperature actuated switch and should open when the set temperature
has been achieved. If the control does not open and turn the compressor
off, it will continue to run and all items in the fresh food section
will begin to freeze. Check the control for continuity. And or need a hands on service tech to diagnose this fault
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