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if u can run it on delicate or fluff cycle with cool air more than likely its ur cycling thermostat or the hi limit thermostat going defective test it with a meter for ohms..
1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.
2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.
Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot or not heat at all. . If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT DEFECTIVE? SHOULD SHOW OHMS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE
Could be bad heating element, bad high limit thermostat or bad cycling thermostat. All of which can be ohmed out with a standard ohm meter. If you replace one I would replace all of them, if you don't you will be going back in there later and replacing another one of those parts
Check for burnt out heating element and electrical connections to element and thermostats. If okay check all thermostats, operating and high limit, with an ohm meter. All must be in closed position. If element,thermostats,and electrical connections good then check timer.
Possible causes depend on the dryer model and type. Electric dryers work diffeently from gas dryer.
Both electric and gas dryers usually have a thermal fuse located at the back of the appliance. Check if thermal fuse/switch is blown or tripped , and eventually replace it.
If the fuse is ok, and appliance is running but not drying, then next part to test will be the thermostat.
A dryer thermostat can be tested using a multimeter , set to read impedance at RX1. If the thermostat is good, it must have low Ohms at room temp, and return no continuity (infinite ohms) at temp. limit.
At this points things are different depending if dryer is gas or electrical.
On a gas dryer test valve , fan and ignitor.
On electric test the heating element and fan.
On both gas and electric, last part to be tested is the timer control board. If all other parts are fine, go for the timer board.
Your thermostat is broken.
I think the gas 5 wire or the heat limit FOR THESE PARTS LINK
or what i would check first is the fuse on the blower housing which is a thermal fuse. A regulat ohm meter /resistance meter can do the trick. No resistance should be measured or very low on this fuse. If uninfinit restistance this one is broken.
It can also be the limit thermostat . Measure when cold. > low resistance.
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