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Sounds like a bad contactor in the circuit. They are usually power to close (on) and spring to open (off) so it should go off automatically. A tech can open unit find right relay and replace it or try contacting these folks with your serial number: http://www.furnaceparts.com/Store/Category/Intertherm.aspx?page=4
Hi, if it keeps blowing this control fuse, you have a dead short on your secondary side, low voltage, 24 volt side of this unit.Look at the thermostat wire at the unit where you are to see if any thing is scored and touching metal. Every part that operates on 24 volts such as a pressure switch, thermostat, flame roll out switch, and even the coil on the contactor that starts the compressor could be shorted. This is a package unit, 3 and a 1/2 tons.Take the low voltage wires loose from the unit and see if the fuse holds. If it does, you have a short in the stat wire any where from there to the stat. If not, most likely the control board is bad. Take out the screws after killing power and work the board out slowly to see the back of it. If its shorted you will see hot or burned spots on it. Its a process of elimination on the low voltage componants. Please let me know how its going, I will be here to help. Shastalaker7
It's the heat kit in the unit that is causing the problem. You need to do a continuity test on it to eleminate that they have shorted. This is the only thing in an electric furnace that will blow a fuse on it. Intertherm is a Nordyne product for manufactured homes. Of coarse they still sell them! I am a Nordyne dealer. Also a sequencer can not cause a fuse to blow. The service guy just wants to make money from you by installing a new unit. You can either re-wire the heat kit or you can purchase a new one and have it installed. If you are referring to the heat kit for 159.00, then that's a fair price for it if you are a non licensed person.
My heating unit is blowing cool air. The thermostat will start the blower when the unit is turned on at the thermostat, but the air isn't hot. But,when I turn the unit on at the furnace/blower using the "Fan On" button, I can see the heating element heat up. After the blower starts the heating element does out. What could be the problem?
to see if it is the t-stat or the system you can unwire the entire t-stat and jump out the wires. never touch the blue to any other wire or you will blow the low voltage fuse on new board. if you jump red to yellow and your condensing unit cycles on the t-stat is wired wrong or wrong style. If not go check the yellow wire at cond. unit and see if power is even going to it.
There is no reset button on most of these units. If nothing is running at all when a call from cooling from the thermostat is made your problem could be a tripped or breaker in the off position. When you turn the thermostat to cool have someone listen for a click at the unit. If no click is heard it may be in the low voltage circuit that your problem is. If a click is heard which is the main contactor pulling in to run then your problem may be in the high voltage power supply. If you have a fused disconnect check the fuses. They should be of the time delay type (slow blow) and sized according to the ampacity on the unit name plate. Also check the main breaker in the house power panel.
You should have 24vac at the 2 lowest terminals 1 on each side of the sequencer with a call for heat.( that is the control voltage,the terminals are usually double spade brass in color) If you have the control voltage after about 30-120 seconds the sequencer should close.The voltage reading across the sequencer should go from 230vac to 0 volts when the sequencer closes.If you have control voltage and 230vac on each side of the sequencer then the sequencer is bad.It is beast if replacing the sequencer replace by moving 1 wire at a time from the old to the new.And ALWAYS make sure power is truned off.