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Blowing switch and burning wires

My intertherm unit keeps blowien the breaker and burning the wires at the element

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You likely have bad or grounded element. I would replace it.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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My electric Maytag oven keeps blowing the breaker


If the breaker trips right away there is probably a short in the stove, A burned wire may have fallen against the case or a shorted burner element. If the takes a few minutes to trip the breaker may be weak and shouhd be checked.

Oct 02, 2014 | Kitchen Ranges

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GE Profile JT912 keep tripping circuit breaker


see this steps and fix it. God bless you

. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

2. Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 29, 2013 | GE Profile JT912 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

My nordyne e2eb elec furnace keeps blowing the #3 atc fuse


Hi, if it keeps blowing this control fuse, you have a dead short on your secondary side, low voltage, 24 volt side of this unit.Look at the thermostat wire at the unit where you are to see if any thing is scored and touching metal. Every part that operates on 24 volts such as a pressure switch, thermostat, flame roll out switch, and even the coil on the contactor that starts the compressor could be shorted. This is a package unit, 3 and a 1/2 tons.Take the low voltage wires loose from the unit and see if the fuse holds. If it does, you have a short in the stat wire any where from there to the stat. If not, most likely the control board is bad. Take out the screws after killing power and work the board out slowly to see the back of it. If its shorted you will see hot or burned spots on it. Its a process of elimination on the low voltage componants. Please let me know how its going, I will be here to help.
Shastalaker7

Nov 26, 2011 | Intertherm P3RA-042K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

OUR WATER HEATER IS BLOWING FUSES ..


1) Turn off power before touching water heater that is shorting or wet or was flooded.
2) Circuit breakers & fuses blow because of heat. A short will cause heat. Tighten screws on terminals inside box, listen for crackling sound/burning smell from loose-fitting parts.
3) Easy test for circuit breakers: move water heater wires to another same-size breaker. If same-size does not blow, then problem is breaker.
4) A short between fuse box and water heater could be gnawed electrical wire. Inspect wire.
5) Wires have size markings. 5500 watt water heater needs #10 wire. 4500 watt water heater needs #10 wire but can work with smaller #12 if distance is not long. See label on side of heater for wattage, voltage, etc. Element wattage is water heater wattage even with 2 elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
6) Short inside water heater can be elements or thermostat. Open covers and inspect parts for burning. Screws should be very tight against copper wire. Sediment could fill bottom of water heater cause lower element to short.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Sep 16, 2010 | Little Giant Water Heaters

1 Answer

Smell of electrical burning.. no more heat in house!


First of all keep this in mind.
You will need to locate the wires that got hot. If you can't or if your not sure, I suggest that you call a service company. If they ok the unit and it catches on fire after wards, their insurances will cover you unit and or home if god forbid it burns. This is to be on the safe side.
Now, this is where I would look. Your element should be on it's on circuit. There should be a disconnect within reach of the air handler. Some are fused and some are not. The wires that got hot enough for you to smell them should show signs of being hot like the plastic will be melted around the wire. You said that the heater was running. Was this the first time you have used it this year? If so, are you sure it was not the dust burning off the elements? They will smell like something burning when you first turn them on each year. Although if your sure you smelled wires getting hot, please continue looking for just that. Keep in mind that the elements have 220 volts coming to them. It comes into the unit and go to a switch or relay. From there the power goes to the elements and then to a neutral. These are the wires you will need to pay the most attention to. Good luck.

Nov 23, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Not heating up...not drying clothes


If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Jun 22, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MDE7400AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a intertherm model feh-017h electric


It's the heat kit in the unit that is causing the problem. You need to do a continuity test on it to eleminate that they have shorted. This is the only thing in an electric furnace that will blow a fuse on it. Intertherm is a Nordyne product for manufactured homes. Of coarse they still sell them! I am a Nordyne dealer. Also a sequencer can not cause a fuse to blow. The service guy just wants to make money from you by installing a new unit. You can either re-wire the heat kit or you can purchase a new one and have it installed. If you are referring to the heat kit for 159.00, then that's a fair price for it if you are a non licensed person.

Mar 17, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

FURNACE OR AC WONT TURN ON


to see if it is the t-stat or the system you can unwire the entire t-stat and jump out the wires. never touch the blue to any other wire or you will blow the low voltage fuse on new board. if you jump red to yellow and your condensing unit cycles on the t-stat is wired wrong or wrong style. If not go check the yellow wire at cond. unit and see if power is even going to it.

Sep 24, 2008 | Intertherm Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Intertherm heater


You should have 24vac at the 2 lowest terminals 1 on each side of the sequencer with a call for heat.( that is the control voltage,the terminals are usually double spade brass in color) If you have the control voltage after about 30-120 seconds the sequencer should close.The voltage reading across the sequencer should go from 230vac to 0 volts when the sequencer closes.If you have control voltage and 230vac on each side of the sequencer then the sequencer is bad.It is beast if replacing the sequencer replace by moving 1 wire at a time from the old to the new.And ALWAYS make sure power is truned off.

Dec 28, 2007 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Breaker keeps tripping


If the breaker itself is more than 15 years old, replace it. If it continues to switch off, check the amp draw of both the inside and outside unit.

Sep 11, 2007 | Heating & Cooling

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