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you probably will not get the stem but it is possible to get a new insert which is the unit that the stem is in
go to a plumber supplies shop ( where the plumbers shop) and ask for a replacement insert for that tap
Turn the faucet to the closed position. Turn off the water to the faucet. Remove the handle. The screw that holds it on may be under a plastic cover. Unscrew the large nut. Remove the cartridge. Put the new cartridge in the closed position. Look at the old cartridge and be sure the new one matches the old one. Insert the cartridge. Replace the nut and tighten. Replace the handle. Turn on the water.
Make sure the water to the tap set is turned off. Remove the hot plug button, use a small knife to pry it out of the top of handle. Remove the screw inside the handle that holds the handle to the cartridge. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the tap handle from the base. Once removed, separate the cartridge from the shell (the unscrew from each other). Use the appropriate size and type of screw driver to remove the screw holding in the flat washer. Using a small dull needle or flat screwdriver remove the "O" ring from the valve stem Replace the o ring by just slipping it on. Make sure you clean all areas of the stem and the stem cartridge of old grease and dirt etc. Use new clean valve stem grease on the O ring before re installing into the cartridge. Insert the new washer onto bottom of valve stem, Screw on. While you have it apart look down inside the tap to inspect the valve seat. If its chipped, broken, rusted etc you MUST replace it, if you do not any new parts will sot stop the leak. Valve seat MUST be nice and flat and clean. To remove the seats most taps will require a 3/8" Allan wrench. Push the wrench into the slot of the seat, turn C-Cw to remove, CW to replace. These parts are cheap. If you need to replace the seat, take it with you to H Depot so they can give you the correct one. NOTE: Its best to do the cold at the same time, saves you the trouble of doing it again later. Same applies to the cartridges. You can replace the entire cartridge instead of rebuilding them at only a few bucks each, its much faster and easier.
Close the hot and cold water valves in the cabinet beneath the sink to shut the water supply off to the bath faucet.
Remove the bath faucet's handle to access the valve cartridge. The faucet handle is removed by first detaching the handle's insert cap using the tip of a screwdriver or utility knife to expose the handle screw. Remove the handle screw with a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the handle off the valve cartridge stem.
Loosen and remove the cartridge valve nut with an adjustable wrench. Some faucet models retain the valve cartridge with a snap ring and are removed with snap ring pliers.
Pull the old valve cartridge out of the bath faucet base, using pliers.
Insert the new replacement valve cartridge into the faucet housing and replace the nut or snap ring removed in Step 3, using an adjustable wrench or snap ring pliers.
Reinstall the faucet's handle onto the valve cartridge post, then secure the handle's screw, using a screwdriver.
Replace the insert cap into the handle to cover the handle's screw hole.
Turn on the hot and cold water valves beneath the sink to restore the water supply.
You need to replace the balancing spool in the valve, If you take the handle off and then the cover plate you will be able to see the valve. You will see the cartridge stem that the handle attached to...if you look to the side you will see what looks like a large slotted screw head.....you will need to remove that piece (called a balancing spool) and replace it. You may get lucky and be able to break lose the cylinder on the inside by tapping sharply straight down onto the slotted head. If you do this and the inside can now slide back and forth while shaking.....it should be ok....they get stuck with calcium. If not...then it needs replaced.
The ballvalve is normally a compression type fitting and so would not normally require soldering, however you could use a threaded adaptor soldered to the copper supply line and then thread a 1/2" ball valve to that then reduce down to the correct thread to meet the tails from your new tap. Or alternativeley you can insert the valve in the supply line, and extend the pipe to nearer the sink to enable easier connection of the tap.
if your valve is single handle there is usually a small button type of cover for (sometimes rubber the size of a pencil erasure) that covers acces to a hex key screw that you have to remove to remove the handle
once you have removed the handle you will need a large adjustable wrench to turn a large nut that holds the cartridege tighten if still leaks remove and replace you can math the assembly at HD or Lowes
Well, this is generic for fixing a Price Pfister ceramic disc valve labatory faucet. On the top of the handle, there is usually a screw cover. Pry it off. Then insert a phillips screwdriver or allen wrench, depending on model and remove. Then remove the handle. At this time, make sure the water is shut off to the faucet. You'll need a socket or wrench to remove the cartridge. On many, the size is 3/4. Loosen all the way, then pull out the cartridge and replace. They are usually between 10-30$/cartridge. Insert new cartridge, tighten (but dont overtighten or you will kill the gasket), then replace the handle and turn on water. Check for leaks.