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This sounds like a grounded heater wire. If you turn the timer on and open your door, is the heater element on and making heat? This should not be the case if the drum is not turning. If heat is on then you will need to replace the heating element. Good Luck!
there is a cycling thermostat in line with the high limit thermostat and timer circuit,on timed dry its disabled and the timer will run no matter what,on any sensor dry setting it uses the heat of the element to heat this cycling thermostat to move the timer as the clothes get drier as the heating element heats the timer doesn't move,when the heater cycles off from the high limit thermostat then timer moves again,you need to find out if its a bad heating element,thermal fuse or possibly even a circuit breaker in the homes electrical panel tripped out on one of the 2 phases that gives you the 240 volts required to operate the dryer element,the breaker may not show its tripped,so shut it off and back on and try this first
There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking. Electric Models 1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself. 2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester. 3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester. 4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity. 5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element. 6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.
Gas models 1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils. 2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor. 3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor. 4- Motor- See above 5- Timer See above
If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back
A restricted vent is the most common cause for long dry times. You can run a load of clothes with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer. If you don't get any heat dring a cylce, and you verified an "air fluff" cycle has not been selected, I suggest having a professional service tech give you a diagnosis. The problem could be in one of a few thermostats, the heating element, main control (timer or control board), sensor, motor switch or even supply voltage.
on a timed dry cycle u are selecting the time it will dry
only after the time has run out will it tumble with no heat
on other setting the machine is stopping the heat and putting the machine into a cool down or air fluff mode
sounds like it isworking normally
(solv ya prob)