Question about Kenmore 75022 / 75024 / 75029 Gas Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
tommi, this model has a cooktop lock-out solenoid feature. Try pressing and holding the top light keypad for 5 seconds and see if the top comes back to life. If not, check your owners manual, it may be a different key. The lock-out solenoid is in the back behind the outer panel. The cooktop lockout valve has been redesigned from a AC to DC voltage because of complaints of chattering. The new part number is 8184768. Lets hope you don't need it and just have the top locked out.
Posted on Apr 10, 2007
Turning any knob starts the spark via a switch behind each which should disengage when the (any) knob is turn further.
One of your switches is stuck.
I think you should be able to remove the range-top for access and find the offending switch.
It is probably gummy from a spill and is no longer in solid contact with the cam that operates it.
A solvent/lubricant such as WD-40 sprayed on the plunger of the switch once you can see it and operating the knob back and forth should free it up.
It might be wise to turn off the gas supply while tinkering with the range - blow your house away and the range won't matter. :-(
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
I will try to assist you but will be making some assumptions based on your problem description. First off, when you say it takes a few tries torest the fuses.. are you referring to circuit breakers? or changing out fuses a few time until it begins to work ok? In either case, the fact that it is drawing more current than the service ( fused or circuit breaker protected implies that you have one of two problems, 1. undersized service ( meaning the fuse of circuit breaker which protect the circuit is under-sized) or 2. a short internal to the stove or receptacle that supplies power to that stove.
I would approach a solution in this manner. Remove or disable power to the stove then open the wall receptacle and ( with power verified and off) tighten all wire junctions.. I have seen cases where a loose wire termination becomes resistive and then in order to meet power demand at the burner, more current is drawn which in turn causes the breaker or fuse to trip..) I would also check the terminations at the point of entry for the power cord at the stove. Make sure all the wire terminations are tight. Once you've done that, try turning on one burner at a time and see if the service remains on or trips the protector ( fuse/breaker) I wouldn't use the oven until I verified that each burner works OK.. then try the oven by itself.. and add a burner .. then two.. ( the point being is to try to determine if you have one of the heating elements shorting. 12:00 flashing is the default time setting after power is lost and restarted. I am almost 'questioning your electricians findings" since circuits do not trip unless there is a fault ( too much current being drawn or the service is under-sized for that oven) or... the circuit protection in and of itself is failing due to marginal components. The fact that it is getting worse suggests that whatever was shorting is shorting more frequently.. perhaps a heating element is shorting after it gets hot.. they are typically resistive elements and it is possible for a short to develop between the core material and the protective jacket.. I hope that helps you... or at least provides a few ideas on where to look...
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
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