1988 FX CUSTOM.,LOSS OF MY REAR BRAKES,PADS ARE DECENT,FLUID FULL,I TRIED TO BLEED BUT ONLY AIR AND TINY FLUID, I DRAINED THE SYSTEM AND REFILLED WITH DOT 3, I HAVE #1LINE FROM RESERVOIR TO MASTER PEDAL #2 LINE FROM MASTER PEDAL TO A ROUND VALVE WITH WIRES (ELECT) AND #3 FROM ROUND VALVE TO THE BRAKE CALIPER,I TRIED TO PREFILL LINES WITH FLUID BUT I STILL HAVE NO PRESSURE.,ONE DAY PRESSURE NEXT DAY NOT.THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
Take the master cylinder off the bike and try to "bench bleed" it in a vise.Fill with fluid and put you finger over the outlet,push plger in with a screw driver.If no or very little pressure replace the master cylinder. If it does pressure up install and bleed system one section at a time.When bleeding a dry system DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN LOW or you will get air in and be there forevere bleeding.
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torx srews 2 different sizes take your time ,some tiny screws in there and pay close att to wire placement undo brakeline remove srews holding leverclamp and remove assembly it is not neccessary to remove switch housing but they must be sepperated to remove the brake lever ***. note:bleeding the brakes takes lots of time and patience somtimesjust keep bleeding and it will come and make sure you use the right fluid for your year and model and also when you get to the otherside buy a book youll need it for clutch cable adjustment
brake fluid should be changed a least once a year so check to see what type of fluid you need and bleed the system i myself use a mini-vac for this. make sure you do this several times and push your brake pedal slowly to get pressure do not pump, this creates little air bubbles.only crack the bleed screw enough for the fluid to pass thru. If this does not cure your problem you may need a new master cyclinder and or rebuild kit for the calitper good luck
well if you can upgrade i would but if you like the old school stuff i would get the an tiera del spring they make for the banana caliper but i would check the slider to see how out of round it is and put new pads on it but you can upgrade it to some time a little spendy good luck .REDOIL
Is this using stock brake lines? You could have kinked the metal tubing and possibly broke it when you straigthened it out. I would suggest getting someone to help who knows what they're doing on brakes... pretty dangerous if you make a mistake. With that said, the system *is* pretty darn simple. The master cylinder is a pump and the caliper is the actuator. If you have the reservoir filled with the correct fluid and the system has been bled properly, meaning no air in the lines, then unless it is leaking there is no reason you won't have brakes, unless the seals in the master are blown out.
If you need to start over... get a master cylinder seal kit, a caliper seal kit, and a bottle of the correct fluid from the dealer. Both kits are around $20 and since your bike is 10 years old it wouldnt hurt to replace the seals. Rebuild the master and the caliper according to the service manual instructions. Also make sure you fully inspect the brake line to make sure you didnt kink it.
It's trans fluid. It came out of the vent tube just above the primary cover on the top cover of the trans. If you look at the tube, the inside will be wet. Run the bike up to operating temp. Check upright and level.
First off remove the spark plugs from both cylinders, this will make it easier to rotate the engine to the proper position for rocker box removal. Now drain and remove the fuel tanks. You will want to have a 3/16" ball allen wrench to remove the top cover from the rocker box. Next you need to be sure that both valves are closed on the rear cylinder. To do this put the bike in top gear(5th). With the rear wheel off the ground slightly rotate the rear tire slowly in the direction of normal rotation(like the bike was going down the road). Have a friend put their finger over the rear cylinder spark plug hole. When they feel their finger being pushed off the hole as your rotating the rear wheel, You will be close to TDC on the the compression stroke at this point both valves should be closed fully or very close to it. Now remove the top cover(it does fit very tight between the engine and frame). Once you can see the rocker arms rotate the rear wheel until you see the rocker arm closest to the center of the motor(intake) start to open and then close. At this point both valves are fully closed(this is crucial). If you dont have the valves closed when you remove the lower rocker box you will bend the valves and then your simple job becomes an expensive one. Now remove the 2 3/16" allen head screws from the left side of the lower rocker box. Then remove the 3 7/16" bolts from the inside of the rocker box. Now you can slowly remove the last 4 bolts these will be 1/2", back each one out about a full turn at a time, until all 4 bolts are completely out. The rear rocker box will now move around pretty freely on top of the cylinder head. You can now remove the covers from the pushrod tubes, use a flat blade screw driver and slip it into the little clip that is like a handle on the tube. Lift the lower part of the push rod tube and lift the pushrod until it clears the lifter block so you can remove it. Set each pushrod off to one side noting which one came from which cylinder. At this point you should be able to now push on the shaft that runs through the rear exhaust rocker arm this will allow the rocker arm its self to be removed. Now you can pull the lower rocker box from frame. Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly. Honestly I do reccomend that you buy a service manual from your local dealership before attempting this though. Also when you are putting everything back together make sure to start all of your bolts a few turns before tightening everything down. As you are tightening the bolts for the lower rocker box you will notice that the pushrods are holding the rocker box up. This is normal, but be sure to tighten the bolts only a turn each at a time(1/2") The hydraulic lifters will need to bleed down before you start the bike and it may even clatter pretty good when you first start it up. This is the lifters building oil back up into them. Take your time and go slow. Let me know how it goes and feel free to get back to me with any questions. Its better to ask if you dont understand then to rush through it. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Follow the actuating rod from the bottom of the brake pedal to the master cylinder. The switch is threaded into the inboard side of the master cylinder and is a pressure switch. If you disconnect the 2 wires and short them together, the brake light should turn on when the ignition switch is on. If it doesn't the problem is in the rear end wiring, not the switch. A couple hints if you replace the switch: Put some pipe dope on the new one and have it ready to go. Unscrew the old one and quickly apply the new one before all the brake fluid escapes. That way you won't need to bleed the brake. Also, see if they have an Accell brand switch. This one of the few aftermarket products that is better than original. Cheaper, too.
Easier to do from the bottom up.... (bubbles rise...right!)
You can get a pump at an auto parts store - I made one with a syringe and a peice of tubing. Attack the tube to the nipple at the caliper. Open the resavoir and fill the pump with fluid. Force it slowly up through the calpier, let it overflow the res. When the bubbles stop, close the nipple. If dual caliper, do the bottom, then the top. Close the system and pump the brakes a few time. that should do it
use a good brand of synthetic 20-50 in everything the primary fluid will last around 10,000mi the tranny fluid the same and the engine around 6000mi the tranny takes 3/4qt the pri takes 7/8qt and the engine gets 2 3/4qt check the levels with bike upright check engine oil level after warm up top off as needed
very simple system my man. the brake handle connected to the master cylinder connected to the brake line connected to the calipers via the plumbing in between. so check your fluid level first if its low then top off and bleed those babies. also check the pads because as the pads wear the piston in the caliper moves further out so more room in the system so lower fluid level or you got a leak. or the master cylinder is bad. start with the obvious and dig deeper good luck and let me know tell me more about the malfunction too