1988 FX CUSTOM.,LOSS OF MY REAR BRAKES,PADS ARE DECENT,FLUID FULL,I TRIED TO BLEED BUT ONLY AIR AND TINY FLUID, I DRAINED THE SYSTEM AND REFILLED WITH DOT 3, I HAVE #1LINE FROM RESERVOIR TO MASTER PEDAL #2 LINE FROM MASTER PEDAL TO A ROUND VALVE WITH WIRES (ELECT) AND #3 FROM ROUND VALVE TO THE BRAKE CALIPER,I TRIED TO PREFILL LINES WITH FLUID BUT I STILL HAVE NO PRESSURE.,ONE DAY PRESSURE NEXT DAY NOT.THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
Take the master cylinder off the bike and try to "bench bleed" it in a vise.Fill with fluid and put you finger over the outlet,push plger in with a screw driver.If no or very little pressure replace the master cylinder. If it does pressure up install and bleed system one section at a time.When bleeding a dry system DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN LOW or you will get air in and be there forevere bleeding.
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You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.
OK........as you have stated that you have bled the brakes properly.....was there fluid coming out each bleed nipple as a flowing stream...????
And did you shut off the bleed nipple half way down stroke....?????
If this is all ok, then I would be looking at a failed master cylinder.......and what is occurring is the fluid is leaking from the primary to the secondary within the master cylinder !!!!!
The screw is an easy fix, take it to a local hardware or auto store and they should have something to replace it with. If you stripped the hole however, you may need to get it re-tapped.
Sounds like you may have air caught in your line from not cracking and pumping the air out after filling the lines.
The following are a few things to think over to see if they might be the problem:
Did you make sure the resovior was full the WHOLE time and topped up as you put the fluid in? Even a tiny amount of air in the lines can cause spongyness.
What Fluid did you use? Was it a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid?
Is the Bleed Nipple done up again tightly?
Did you have enough suction on the bleed nipple as you ran the new fluid through?
Is the resovior full again now that the brakes have fluid in the lines?
Check these things, or try re-bleeding the brakes. Remember to tighten, compress and crack the nipple after running the fluid through to push any air out.
Check the video for a walk through on how to bleed them and crack the air out.
The problem is not the booster, the job of the booster is to make braking easier. If the booster went out the brakes would be hard to press.
Your soft pedal is likely due to air in the brake lines. Bleed the brakes and go from there.
Start with brake in the rear that is the farthest away from the master cylinder ( if your master cylinder is on drivers side start with passenger rear,pump up brake pedal until hard have someone else open bleeder valve until air or fluid squirts out,while holding brake pressure even if goes to the floor dont release pedal until bleeder valve is tightened or you will **** air back into the line,do this several times making sure you get a full stream of brake fluid and no air,continue to other rear wheel and then proceed to front wheel furthest from master cylinderand then final wheel. if you still don't have brakes change master cylinder and bleed all brakes again.
have you had problems getting pressure to the rear brakes before? if yes it is proportion valve problem if no try to sequence bleed the entire system starting with tire left rear, right rear, left front, right front. do the sequence 2-3 times.
check to see if this car has a brake equilisation valve in the line somewhere, as they normaly stick when there has been a fluid loss at the rear of the vehicle. this brake presure protection valve shuts off the fluid coming to the rear brake after there is no resistance in the rear line to keep from loosing all brakes entirely.
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