Question about Sony SDM-HS73P 17" LCD Monitor
Push the on/off button and you can see the normal screen and goes black again. There was a electrical burning smell at the time when the problem first started.
This happened to me, and I fixed it, so read on! Switch on... green LED for a couple of seconds, Brief flash of light with display working, the total shutdown. Switch off, repeat but press the front panel power button as soon as the green LED comes on and it goes into standby (red LED) and stays there. This proved to be a weak power supply problem, fixed by replacing dried-up electrolytic capacitors (very common problem on any elderly
TFT monitor). Hopefully it's the same for you, but if you have a different problem, like no sign of life at all, some of this may still prove useful to you.
Getting into the case is tricky. Remove the stand (4 scerws) and all seven other visible screws on the rear. Using a "spudger" (plastic blade for prizing cases apart) or similar object (or a knife if you don't mind causing cosmetic damage to the case)prize the bezel from the back cover. It's got lots of snap-fit latches every 3 inches or so so it's a pain. I used several thin metal plates in the gap as I went to stop it snapping shut again. Be careful around the front panel button area because you could damage the wires, though they are not as delicate as the flat film cables found in Dell monitors! With the bezel separated the plastic back panel is still firmly held on by the four annoying plastic tabs along each of the two sides. I overcame these by wedging metal plates next to them to prize the sides sufficiently apart from the metal internals to pass the tabs, then laid the monitor face down standing off them so the internals and bezel could drop downwards out of the case back. That's the hard bit over!
The metal back cover can now be removed (7 silver screws - not the two below the video connectors. Disconnect all the wires form the power supply board with care. The one to the main board un-clips from the main board and not form the PSU board. Don't just pull it. The wire to the power switch comes out easily if the PSU board is lifted a bit first (3 yellowish screws). The backlight cables top and bottom are held on with white gunk - just pull them off without straining the wires unduly.
The main clear plastic cover can be peeled off the board for access to the components. In my case I found nothing obviously wrong - the fuse was good, and no sign of any burning, so I began to systematically remove each electrolytic capacitor in turn and test it with the capacitance setting on my multimeter. All of the solitary ones were fine, reading within a few% of the value on the can so put them back (the right way round!!!!). However, three of the ones in the bank of six (470uF,35V) were reading significantly higher than the other three, 490-510uF, so I replaced them with new. Put the clear plastic safety cover back on, using double-sided tape on the bits where the clue had dried out. DON'T POWER UP WITHOUT IT! Fit back onto the monitor and reconnect everything with care not to bend any pins in the board-mounted connectors. Refit the three yellowy screws.
With the monitor screen side up it's safe to plug in the power lead and turn it on. First time I did it, the thing still didn't work! I disconnected power and checked all the connectors again. One of the backlight connectors wasn't quite straight and it turned out I'd bent a pin. Straightened it, reconnected, BINGO!
If you started with a completely dead monitor it's likely the fuse is blown and possibly some other stuff as well. The best approach for a PSU non-expert (like me) is to get hold of a working one and just look for differences between the two side by side on the bench with a meter (Not powered up of course!) I don't know this particular supply but look out for burnt resistor R019 (hidden in heatshrink but should be 0.39 ohms), also look for short circuits across FETs, replace any obviously charred items and check the rectifier and diodes with the diode check function of the meter. Good luck, and ALWAYS be safe around electricity!
Chris Colborne 13/2/15
Posted on Feb 13, 2015
Possibly the backlights have failed. The screen part may be working normally. Get a bright light close to the front of the screen, see correct image faintly. Commonly it is failure of the high voltage inverter circuits that power the backlight fluorescent lamps. You can probably buy replacement circuit or repair the one you have. I have done this on another model. You need to search the web for experience of the same model. RDL.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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