Question about Maytag MAT13MN Top Load Washer

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Noise problem it is a terrible grinding noise on entire cycle afer water fill....I tried this after removing inner and the outer tub,,,also the sump pup....just the motor and the transmison running. sounds like running dry....does it need lube ? how to lube it....any help ?

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Re: noise problem

The problem could be either of two bearings. It could be the tub bearing which would require the removal of the inner and outer tubs. it could also be the bearing on the top of the brake package. in either case you will need a specia spanner wrench to remove said parts ( naturally its a different wrench for each) my advice is to call a service tech and let him make a recomendation

Posted on Jul 22, 2007

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I have a kenmore frontloading washer, during the spin cycle a noise like grinding can be heard, grinding can also be heard when turning drum by

its the drum bearings that support the inner drum,you need to replace these bearings,the problem with this is it was manufactured by frigidaire for kenmore and you cant just buy the inner bearing and lip seal as it comes with the outer rear half of the outer.tub where as with maytag neptune or whirlpool duet you can drive these bearin gs out and re-use the tub half,but you can't buy just the bearings and seal for a frigidaire front loader

Aug 31, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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The washing machine is leaking water and it is coming from underneath the washer during all filling cycles and running cycles why?

Could be several things. Check all the hoses, water pump, water valve also check if water is coming from the bottom of tub could be tub seal. Check that there is not a leak in the outer tub somewhere I had one that had a nail stuck in one of the holes in the inner tub and rubbed a hole in the outer tub. Have fun I hope this helps.

Aug 28, 2011 | Washing Machines

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Washer say on screen LE and will not turn.. Also when manually turn the turn hear grinding noise too.

Grinding noises are bad. If you are lucky, you got an item (like an underwire support from a bra) between the inner and outer tub, which may be removed through the heater or drain openings in the tub. If you are un-lucky, your rear tub seal failed, causing the rear bearing to fail, or the shaft broke loose from the 3 arms of the spider which drives the inner wash tub. Either of those things is $$$ and a lot of work to repair, involving removal of the outer drum, seperation of the outer drum halves, and repair. (translation: minimum 2 hours labor if you've ever done one before)

Feb 28, 2011 | LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Quite old admiral mega 22 plus topload washer. the machine did not agitate after filling up. I tried various points on the 3 cycle types and it did not spin either. My son tried moving the agitator and...

Yes sounds like you have now disturbed the seal and will need a new one, remove the agitator and inner drum to get at the seals, to remove the agitator pull off the softner cap and remove bolt form down inside.
To remove the inner drum, the top part of the washer needs to be hinged back to gain access, to do this insert a flat balde 4" from each side at the seam with the front panel to release the clips, lid will now hinge back to give access to the drums, on the outer dum there are clips all the way round to remove the top section of the outer drum release these. remove the bolts under agitator to remove the inner drum. you should have access to the seals but it has been a while.
Reason for not agitating in first place is probably the water level switch at the rear of the drum with a small 8mm hose connecting it to the drum.

Dec 29, 2009 | Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My Maytag washer has a defect, technican told me, that lets water get between the tub and outer lining and sit there and stagnate smelling terrible.

The water always goes from the tub to the outer shell, that is where the pump connects. Put a little bleach in the tub with some water, shake the agitator side to side to move the drum enough to circulate the bleach around the tub. Then pump the water out and then lower the hose down to a bucket to get the last of the water out. Feel around between the inner and outer drums for anything that has jumped out of the inner tub to the outer drum. You should be able to push the inner drum aside enough to get your arm in. You may have to open the top to get your arm in the space. Check this site for your machine.

May 07, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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Noisey during spin

yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

May 07, 2009 | LG WD-16115FD Front Load Washer

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I replaced the coupler between gear box and moter and the cogs in the agitator now when spinning out the washer makes grinding noise


Good job on the coupler and agitator cam! Way to go!

Now for the grinding noise... I assume that it wasn't making that noise before you worked on it, right? (except for the noise it makes when the coupler has failed. It make a kind of grinding noise, too.) So I'll assume that this is a different grinding noise.

2 things will cause this in "spin".

1.) Something is caught between the inner and outer tubs. Since you've had the cabinet off, you know that there is a perforated steel inner drum (the one with holes in it) and a plastic outer drum to contain the water. I've seen nails, paper clips, etc... get through the holes of the inner tub and get caught there. When the unit goes into spin, the object will spin along with the inner tub and rub the outer tub making a scraping/grinding noise.
To find out if this is the problem, remove the agitator again... yes the entire top and bottom portions of it. Now CAREFULLY inspect the inner tub and look for anything that may be stuck in the holes. It'll be small, so use a good flashlight.

2.) The "drive block" has cracked/broken and allowed the inner tub to drop to the point that it's grinding on the outer tub base. This one is a bit more intense than the fix above. If you would, please verify that there's nothing in the inner tub before we proceed to the next step.
Note----> I don't doubt that you can't handle the next repair. It's just that I want to eliminate the simple stuff before moving to the more complex stuff.

Let me know what you find, OK? Also... BEFORE you remove the agitator, look at the distance between the bottom of the agitator and the base of the inner tub. Use your finger for measurement. You should NOT be able to fit the tip of your finger between the two. If you can, write back 'cause then we'll be going into the drive block (#2) repair.


Apr 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

2 Answers


Yes, there is something trapped between the inner and outer drum, you could try removing the sump hose from the bottom of the drum, this will give you more room to fish about than possibly removing the heater. If you do remove the heater, you may not get it back in, then you will have to fit a new one.
The sump hose is the large hose fastened to the bottom of the outer tub.

Dec 02, 2008 | Zanussi FJS1225W Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Fisher and Paykel Washer Leaking

For those with water on floor after wash, check my post on "eco smart won't drain, smells hot". It could be something clogging drainage area at very bottom of the tub. I couldn't see the sock that was stuck in my FP's drain when I looked from the top between the white outer tub and the wash tub--everything looked fine. Then I removed the black motor/white plastic housing piece--Tip back washer and you should see this black electric motor/white housing on bottom. see my post for how to remove and check for plugged drain. it's really pretty easy.

don't know about outer tub holes, but glad i don't have that problem.

i hate my fisher paykel washer/dryer. i can't wait to sell this house--i will leave them here and get a new front load Duette for my next house!

May 31, 2008 | Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

1 Answer

Grinding noise when drum rotates

may be a foreign object trapped in between the inner and outer tub. Major Disassembly required to split the outer tub. May also be the rear bearing in which case back half will have to be replaced.

Oct 04, 2007 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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