The amp is receiving power, i tested it with my VOM. My RCA's are brand new, and i tested them. They are plugged in the right places. My Green LED is on. The Amp used to work then just stopped giving me any output. I tested my subs, and they are good too. Can i repair this?
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Re: No Output from amp, green LED on
Are you absolutely certain your subs are in good shape? have you put a meter on them and measured the ohms as you depress the cone [causing the cone to move up and down on the pole of the magnet? do the ohms stay constant? go up to infinity[ suggesting an open] or go to zero or close to zero [ suggestting a short] both of these conditions will result in a zero or a very limited output from your amplifier, while still showing a green status light, if or when a full short or open occurs on the subs, a fault led will become lit, and whet that means is that u have fried the outputs....do a bit more testing with your vom....and good luck or try another speaker for testing purposes...
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Sounds like there is a problem with the amp. Try switching the inputs around for that output on the amp. If that does not help, Yes I would have to say that there is a problem with the amp output circuit.
Most subwoofer have a left and right phono/RCA sockets. The amp should have a sub out phono/RCA plug. The sub should have come with a phono/RCA lead that will connect these - one plug to two plugs.
Apart from the mains plug that's all there is really. You may have to switch the sub socket on the amp on.
maybe its on power supply try to check at power supply section check nearby parts of regulator ic if you can, test those passive and active parts using vom if those parts are ok then the regulator ic is defective
Hello, here is Clarions wire codes. FRONT Right SPKR: +Gray -Gray/Blk, FRONT Left SPKR: +White -White/Blk, REAR Right SPKR: +Purple -Purple/Blk, REAR Left SPKR: +Green -Green/Blk
Brown Wire = Phone Mute Lead (If applicable) Yellow Wire = 12V battery lead in (Connect directly to battery) Red Wire = 12V Ignition wire (Connect to Acc switch) Blue/White Wire = Amp turn on lead Black Wire = Chassis Ground Orange/White Wire = Illumination Lead (Connect to dimmer switch) Blue Wire = Auto Antenna Lead (lowers power antenna Do not use for Amp Turn on! Use the Blue/White Wire for Amp,EQ, Ect.. turn on wire only
RCA Connectors if applicable:
Black RCA Harness: White RCA = Rear Audio Left Sub Output 1 Red RCA = Rear Audio Right Sub Output 2
Gray RCA Harness: White RCA = Front Left Audio Out to amp Red RCA = Front Right Audio Out to amp
Red- 12 volts switched (ignition)
Yellow- 12 volts constant
Blue/white stripe- remote amp turn on/ power antenna
If you have any orange wires there for the Illumination dimmer. (head unit dims when you turn the lights on). The white and gray are front speakers and purple and green are for the rear, solid being + and black striped being -. (gray and purple are right channels)Make sure that the RCA plugs go to the input side of the amp. I hope this helps, Ray
The best way to test your sound problem is to buy another pair of patch cables/RCA cables and try those, most likely you have a ground loop in the RCA cables, basically you are creating a ground when you touch it.
did you plug your rca signal wires into the subwoofer ouput rca's? if so you can control the level and frequency of the sub on the face in the audio menu. if this is not the issue try new rca cables. you can run them outside the car first just to test. another issue is make sure you have proper grounding on the head unit and amp. also if your rca cables acccidently touch power they can blow a fuse or trace inside the radio causing the rca's to lose ground (you will have low audio with lots of humming noise). you can check this by jumpering a small wire from the radio frame to the outer shield of the rca jack while it is all plugged in. if the sound gets louder and cleaner you can secure this wire in place by soldering it or fixing the circuit board itself.
Step 1: If the oven element doesn't work, first check to see if the range is receiving power. Don't overlook the fusing system inside the range.
Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.
Step 3: If the element still doesn't heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.
Step 4: Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power. Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, and remove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. The element is usually held in these brackets by screws.
Step 5: Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element is in working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meter reads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should be replaced. If the element tests all right but doesn't work, the problem may be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight at the element connections.
Oven and broiler elements cannot be tested without a VOM. If you don't have a VOM, take the element to a professional service person for testing. The problem is usually a malfunctioning element; however, you aren't risking much by replacing the element without a professional test.