Question about Whirlpool LHW0050PQ Front Load Washer

2 Answers

LHW0050PQ Doesn't run through cycles

Posted this as a solution to a previous problem because I didn't see the link for posting a new problem (didn't realize you had to go to the model number specific area before getting the option to post a problem). So some of this assumes having read the solution to the previous post on this appliance. The LHW0050 does not have a traditional rotary timer and this makes cycle diagnosing a pain in the .... You can turn it off and restart it on separate settings but you can't easily advance it through the cycles to test them in a way I consider to be rigorous. Because what the washer is supposed to do at each cycle setting is a mystery. Even the spin cycle starts slowly and bleeds water in maybe to finish the rinse or whatever on a correctly functioning maching. On a rotary timer, careful spinning of the timer through the arc of its program actually allows you to use the timer cames to simulate each event and to understand what order they are supposed to occur in. I have a LHW0050 washer that is filling and then not doing much else although it seems to agitate a bit, even if I set it to spin. It does drain and then goes into various relatively slow spins in opposite directions and speeds but nothing like the real spin cycle. Maybe these are precursory to clear more water and weight out before engaging the high speed but a guy could have fixed 10 traditional timer appliances while waiting around to see what this one would do. I am assuming if it does anything after filling that it is not the door switch, but maybe the door switch is making occasional contact and then losing it giving unusual results. Are you speaking about an LHW0050 when you say pull up on the top. There are no visible means of dissassembly (I've had the back apart to clear a clog out of the hose that overwhelmed the clever front access filter),but I don't see how the top comes off. Do you pull it forward or backward while pulling up, any screws to undo first? Finally, where is the timing regulation on this machine, is it some solid state unit. Is there any available theory of ops material that can aid in these conditional diagnoses. If there is actually a spinning motorized timer hidden from view, I'm tempted to cut the covering and expose it so I have more control over the cycles, both for repair and operation. I have half dozen of these in service and was reasonably satisfied so I got one for my wife and the inability to address timing or change cycles on the fly or even know what is really going on during the wash cycle is very frustrating. OTherwise doesn't seem like a horribly engineered machine. It is high on the vibration side, obviously especially if a load gets unbalanced. I actually had one jump off one of its 4 shock absorbers during a violent spin cycle. Maybe they tried to put too much in a relatively small package, but, knock on wood, performance has nonetheless been pretty good. I recommend only in slab on grade or solid basement floor applications. I've tried to construct various vibration damping devices from layers of heavy 1/2" think rubber stallmatting attached in multiples to a wood frame with only modest improvement for my installation on a first floor that shakes the whole house. thanks, brian

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  • Brian Bishop Jun 21, 2007

    Joe et al,

    already checked the drain and the washer will actually pump out if I disconnect it from power and then restart it with the program set to spin only.

    I have cleared drain obstruction from these washers before. they have a front drain or if it is really overcome the back panel is easy to remove to get at drain piping. I actually had to replace the rubber y drain from the main tub because a screw lodged in it and put a hole in the tube although the rubber is so soft that it didn't really leak much I couldn't see leaving it in place.

    What I think I need are directions for access to the timing mechanism - whether that is mechanical or solid state - and a theory of ops that would allow me to understand if it is actually moving through cycles in the correct manner by checking outputs to various functions.

    Earlier machines were sometimes supplied with bar graphs that indicated the call to various functions at various stages in the cycle, e.g. drain solenoid, fill solenoid, pump or agitate, spin, etc.

    If this is a door switch problem, I'm wondering about frontal access. I've had the back apart before but never figured out how the top or front come off these washers.

    Thanks, Brian

  • Brian Bishop Jun 22, 2007

    Joe,
    You're damn straight I have ideas.
    I have serviced appliances for 25 years. The first thing I looked for was a clogged drain system. This washer has a clever filter that you can remove from the lower front right hand corner. But just clearing that or confirming that it is not cloged doesn't mean that there might not be something in other areas of the washer.

    When I put it on spin it seems to drain fine but checking cycles on this machine is very difficult because there is no timer knob. The thing that I bothers me about this washer is that you cannot easily set it for a particular point in the cycle. If you are trying to test that the drain is, in fact, clear, normally I would just advance the timer a click at a time until I hit the point in the cam that kicks in the pump out cycle so I can fill the washer several times and confirm that it is draining.

    I'm assuming this washer has some kind of timer somewhere, but I have no idea where. The reason I signed up was for someone to tell me. If I even had a good parts breakdown, it would probably show me. Talking to whirlpool is useless because the people you talk to generally know less about the machine than you do if you are in the trade.

    I can go down to my parts supplier and have him pull up the parts breakdown on the computer for me. Just thought I would save a trip and try out this service. Seems like a good idea generally, but apparently aimed only at DIYers. What sites are you referring to where I might get these answers and or just a good parts breakout.

    Thanx,

    Brian

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There is a tech sheet in the washer. If you remove the 3 torx screws in the back for the top and then from the front of the washer you will push on the top from both sides with your palms the top will move back and you will be able to take it off. In the top front you will see a plastic bag that the tech sheet will be in. Remove it and you will find a series of buttons to push to put the washer in a diagnosis mode and from there you will be able to run the washer through out the various cycles. It should tell you whats wrong if anything. Sometimes you just need to clear the micro computer of codes and then the washer will function properly. And the dor switch is accesable from the front.All you have to do is remove the front of the bellows by the front spring, then remove the screws that hold the switch to the panel at the front of the switch and you can remove it. But I doubt its the switch if you do get some function from the washer. Good luck

Posted on Jul 19, 2007

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HELLO ... JUST A SUGGESTION. MOST OF THE TIME WHEN FRONT LOADERS MALFUNCTION IT IS BECAUSE THERE IS DEBRI PLUGGING THE DRAIN-LINE WHICH EMPTIES THE WATER BEFORE SPIN CYCLE. DIFFERNT MODELS MAY REQUIRE TOLLS TO REMOVE THE DRAIN/STRAINER ASSEMBLY. VARIOUS OBJECTS LIKE SMALL ARTICLES OF CLOTHING (CHILDRENS SOCKS ETC. HAVE BEEN FOUND. GOOD LUCK.

Posted on Jun 20, 2007

  • Joseph Reckinger
    Joseph Reckinger Jun 21, 2007

    I WONDER IF YOU TRIED THE SUGGESTION ... IT SEEMS YOU HAVE YOUR OWNN IDEAS ABOUT REPAIRS.

    IN YOUR CASE I HIGHLY RECOMMEND: PAY THE SERCICE COST TO GET A DIAGNOSTIC. USUALLY AROUND 40 DOLLARS.

    A DEFECTIVE DOOR SWITCH WOULD NOT ALLOW WASH OR SPIN CYCLE. IT IS NOT ACCESABLE FRON THE TOP.

    I DODNT RECOMEMD DO-IT- YOUR SELFERS TO PLAY WITH ELECTRICAL DEVICES OF ANY KIND.

    CONTRACTOR .... 45 YEARS

  • Joseph Reckinger
    Joseph Reckinger Jun 21, 2007

    THESE ARE SUGESTIONS NOT SOLUTIONS ... NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNISHED. GET A ROCK AND LIVE BY A STREAM.

    aLSO THERE ARE OTHER BLOG SITES THAT TELL YOU WHAT YOU WANT TO HEAR.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi Ron,

Just happened tocome accross this post randomly...I did indeed reply to your post on a previous day. Are you not able to continue with thast post ? I'm not clear on the reason, though it doesn't matter, just pick up from there.

The issue with your washer has all the symptoms of a faulty lid switch is what I had posted previously, but I wasn't sure at what stage you had reached in diagnosis.

Here's the explaination in the teardown/service manual...If the lid switch Is open, agitation and spin will not occur, but the washer will continue to count down, fill with water and drain at the appropriate times in the cycle...sounds like a perfect summary of your symptoms.

I realize the type of lid switch these units use or as you called it a magnetic sensor (sometimes referred to as a "reid switch" aka fancy word for magnet) as shown here...

macmarkus_966.jpg
If you do not have motor action present at anytime no matter where the cycle is, I'd be suspicious of the lid switch. The other component failing which can manifest in this manner is the 10 amp fuse on the neutral line...example:

macmarkus_967.jpg
As you can see there are a couple possible scenario's that may prevent the motor from operating, but I'd start with the fuse and lid switch...my money is on the fuse (I shouldn't gamble...I see too many lid switches too, lol)

Let me know what results and that will at least get us moving forward again. Good luck. I also have the service manual as I mentioned. If you post your email address when you reply Ron, I'll fire it off to you.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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Maybe check your other post as I will add this info there as well to see if it is working. I know there have been some "glitches" here recently at FixYa. I apologoze for that.

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