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Re: install color wheel in samsung hlp tv model #hlp4663w
Yes u need to take the optical block out is hold by screw umplug the hdvi cable and 2 small cable caming from the anolog board , now take the top black cover wicht is protecting the color wheel now remove the only 2 screw for the color wheel , becare full when remove the 2 smaller cable for the color wheel and when put it in the color wheel back in place
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yes u need to remove this jumper , if u look ur tv from the back the jumper is on the board that is attach to the optical block it is cover by a shield plate if look closer there is a small hole u may need a fine plier to take this jumper out
The jumper if it has it usually causes the color to look funny blue instead of normal.
It is located on the DMD board--the metal box on the light engine where the two plugs from the color wheel are.
It will be in a small opening on the metal shield that covers it--small and rectangular in shape--it has a small metal tab across it--it jumps two pins--
if it is there with a hemostat or small needle nose pliers pull it carefully out and see what you have--The CCA adjustments are done in the TECH MENU--look to see first if the jumper is there and remove it.
A lot of places that sell the wheel do not tell people about this.
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yes its true grt your self a pair of needel nose pliers and pull that jumper.
I had a tv set in my shop for weeks till i lerend that one
wat it was is that the new color weel motors are air cor and spin faster that the originals, so pull the black jumper it looks like a small hard drive just remove it
your set will auto ajust.
ther are sum small settings to add in the service menue to fine tune it.
but first pull that jumper..
seting can be found on google... i think i found it on tech assist.
and enterd model number.
As part of the power up sequence on the Samsung HLP-4336W the lamp isn't turned until timing pulses are detected from the color wheel. The color wheel motor is powered through the flat brown four conductor ribbon cable and the timing pulses are detected over the the three conductor ribbon table.
When I removed the jumper wire the screen color problems I experienced after changing the color wheel were fixed completely. I did not need to reset the CCA values (which came with my color wheel, on a separate sticker). If you have a black bracket blocking access to the jumper wire, as I did, you can access the jumper wire by removing the fan shown just to the left of the yellow and white sticker; there are two screws attaching the fan to the chassis below it. Next, remove the two screws that hold the silver clamshell (the housing for the circuit board) halves together. These screws are right behind where the fan just was, on either side of the protruding fins. They each have a spring under the screw head. You can then pull the visible half of the silver housing forward (with the bracket attached). You will then have access to the entire circuit board. Look for CN810 - it is located right behind where that bracket just was when it was all put together. Pull the tiny black plastic part (that has the jumper wire) off of the pins. Then reassemble the housing and put the fan back on.