Question about Samsung HLN437W 43" Rear Projection HDTV

19 Answers

Samsung Dlp Hln437w lamp light flashes

I just replace the color wheel and now when i turn on the lamo light just flashes and i have to unplug to get it to turn off.The set was working before it was just making the whining noise i have an extra lamp and tried that and checked the cover switch any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

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  • 23 more comments 
  • chris leck Jan 16, 2009

    Ok i will try that and see what happens.



    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 16, 2009

    Well i pulled out the color wheel and put it back in and have the same problem do you have any other ideas ?



    thanks,



    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 16, 2009

    Ok will try and let you know.





    Thanks,



    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 17, 2009

    I tried reseating both lamps the new and the old and i am still getting the lamp light blinking.both fans will run but that is it.

    Thanks,

    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 17, 2009

    I cannot ruen the the tv off with out unplugging it first once the light starts blinking i have to unplug it.

  • chris leck Jan 17, 2009

    And how do i i not make anyone mad by reposting without giving a respone to their help ?

  • chris leck Jan 17, 2009

    I have double checked all of my work and i cant find anything i might have missed.The tv was working fine except i had the noisey color wheel but now that i have replaced it all i get is the lamp light blinking.Both fans are coming on.Any i deas would ver much appreciated.Wife says i cant spend much more time onit so i dint know what i will do with it.



    Thanks,



    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 18, 2009

    any other ideas ?

  • chris leck Jan 21, 2009

    Does not getting any reponse mean that there is not a f ix for my issue ?



    thanks,



    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    Can you give me an idea where the fuse is located ?

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    I am trying to find the fuse but i am not seeing it ?



    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    Well i checked the fuse and did the hard reset i guess i am going to have to give up and trash the tv.

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    I have noticed that at times the tv will not respond to my remote.It is not the batteries in the remote i dont even get the light on the tv that blinks like it is getting a signal from the remote.This happened the other day but i thought it was just a fluke but now i am wondering if it a clue to my issue.

    thnaks

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    If i so not have a video source going to the tv will that keep the tv from turning on ?

  • chris leck Jan 26, 2009

    Do you know what you had wrong ? I have pulled it out and reinstalled it twice so i am not sure if i missing something.



    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 26, 2009

    I have checked that out and the only light blinking is the lamp light.

  • chris leck Jan 26, 2009

    No it is definitly the correct bulb

  • chris leck Jan 27, 2009

    Are you thinking i need to resolder the wires at the ballast board ?



    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 28, 2009

    Will i be able to get into the service menu even if the lamp is not starting up ?



    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 28, 2009

    That is not the cas eth information has been helpful its just that the tv is not working yet.If yall do not want to help then i will ask for the refund.

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    I am having trouble locating a jumper that i have read coul dbe my problem and i supposed to be on the dmd board but i am not seeing it any ideas ?

    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    I apologize but i gues si never poseted the reponse that we did check the ballast and according to the link it tested correctly.

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    can you help me locat ethe jumper for my model hln437w ?

    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    I am not sure when you are saying bu detector board ?



    thanks

  • chris leck Feb 02, 2009

    Ok thank you very much.Can you help me locate the jumper on my model hln437w i have looked through everything and looked all in the service manual and i am not finding it.I am wondering if the jumper people talk about does not apply to my model.



    Thanks

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19 Answers

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Since you have tried everything there's only one thing left. The lamp door sensor. Are you sure your lamp door is firmly in place when closed? There is an unorthdox way of checking the sensor. Take a small piece of insulation tape and stick it one the sensor. Then close the door and see if the lamp comes on.. Let me know what you found.

Regards,
Sai.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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  • 326 Answers

Yes you are right it is the DMD board. it is cheaper to replace the whole optical engine. look here  http://www.tristatemodule.com/
should find a good price

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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  • 250 Answers

How to replace the ballast with diagram and procedure
http://www.consumermeet.com/entry/samsung-dlp-ballast.html

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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  • 378 Answers

Its the problem of the connector socket where you fit the lamp either the socket is dirty or the socket soldering is got loose.needs to be resoldered as it is not getting connected to the board properly so the lamp light is blinking.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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  • 90 Answers

Is there any chance the lamp you're installing is either bad, or not the correct part?

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • Peter Castaldo
    Peter Castaldo Jan 29, 2009

    There's no one that doesnt want to help you, Im sorry if you feel that way. It is difficult, on my part atleast, to diagnose something with "unknowns". The color wheel you have installed could be bad, there is no way to verify it is not, if the tv were in a shop, it could be checked. This problem didnt occur until you removed and replaced parts... That, in the diagnostic world, indicates it is something that you did. Whether the new part you installed is not good, or you touched something and shorted something, or something is improperly installed. I am not trying to pass any blame, but that is what the info indicates. When I disassemble and reassemble something, and it has a NEW problem it didnt have before, it HAS to be something I did, or a part I installed. I have racked my brain and researched the internet near and far to find possible problems that havent been discussed yet, but I keep coming back to the same conclusion, it has something to do with what you did. If I can be of any help, please dont hesitate to ask, WE ARE ALL HERE TO HELP YOU.

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  • 202 Answers

DUDE
lamo light flashes
it means this is the problem of lamp door sensor.
check out the sensor
if the problem not solved
tell me after all closed up and switch on

which lights blink on front round button

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • yashan.co.in Jan 27, 2009

    if the lamp light is blink wait for 25 second and watch the picture appears or not whhen the lamp light blink that means picture appeares in 25 second

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  • 130 Answers

I worked on this problem and i didnt get the wheel on correctly. after i had a tv tech come by he made me feel like a total idiot. check that you install was done right, even the simple parts

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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  • 716 Answers

If The Lamp Is Just Flashing Its The lamp cover door switch.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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  • 10,515 Answers

Change the bulb....New replacement bulb is available in the market :)

Thnx.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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  • 49 Answers

Sounds like you have tried a lot.  However, the odds of the lamp and/or ballast going out when you replaced the color wheel seems remote.  With that said, I would open it back up and check ALL connections.  Something may have come loose accidentally.   According to the service manual, you should do the follow in the event that the lamp light flashes but the TV doesn't come on: 1)  Check whether the External LED indicator of the set is normal.  Only the LAM LED indicator should be turned on. 2) Check whether the Digital board LED indicators inside the set are lit.  All of the three LED indicators should be turned on.  You can observe those LED indicators through the cabinet holes at the back of the set.  3)  Check whether the set lamp is turned on.  if the lamp is off, replace it (which you have done.)  When you turn on the set again after replacing the lamp, it should turn on within 30 seconds.  If more than one minute passes before it turns on, or if it does not turn on, replace both the ballast and the lamp.  (Which you have done.)  4. Lamp Replacement... 5) Ballast operation check.  a) Check whether 5V is supplied to the blue terminal of CN2.  b) Check whether DC 380V is supplied to both end terminals of CN1 (carefully).  You have to do this with the lamp door switch held close (taped).  If 5V is supplied to the ballast, replace the ballast.  If not, replace the light engine. 6)  Check the mode in which the screen does not display.  If RF, Video, DVD or DTV, then check the Analog CN511terminal, digital CN309 connectors.  If DVI or PC, replace and inspect the digital board.
So, lot of info, but maybe not a lot of help.  I still think it is likely either something disconnected, or misconnected.  Hope that helps.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • Nick DelRegno Jan 25, 2009

    BTW, many of the local certified Samsung repair centers will charge a nominal fee to diagnose the problem.  That is how I confirmed my light engine needed to be replaced on my 61" DLP.

  • Nick DelRegno Jan 29, 2009

    pcastel sums it up well.  If you look through the litany of posts, there have been many here that have tried to help.  If it were me and I didn't want to put a very expensive TV on the curb for pickup (which was the case two years ago), I would retrace my steps, make sure I installed the color wheel correctly and make sure I reconnected everything correctly.  If you really want to keep the TV, then I would recommend A) you purchase a service manual and check everything.  Check to ensure that all of the connections are correct per the service manual and wiring diagrams, and/or B) take the TV to a certified repair center for diagnostics.  Replacing the color wheel, even with the wrong one, should not make it behave the way it is behaving.  I provided you, verbatim, the troubleshooting steps from the service manual.  Did you test for the voltages indicated?  Did you ensure that the three pin connectors, of which there are several, where connected correctly?  As I mentioned before, based on your testing it is A) not the lamp, and B) not the ballast.  That only leaves the light engine or misconnections.   So your options, while limited, remain A) rechecking your connections and/or B) paying the nominal diagnostic fee from a certified Samsung repair center.

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Somehow one of my posts to you didn't come through.

I've researched this and I am betting you have a bad lamp or lamp ballast. These things are not very robust from what I've read, and what your seeing sounds exactly like what a florescent light bulb does when it's running on a bad ballast, or the bulb is bad.

Don't scrap yet until you check these last two items out. You can go to Advanced Transformers home page to get an idea of how to test the ballast. The lamp can just be replaced.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • Mark Egan Jan 28, 2009

    If you can't get a picture, you can't see the service menu.

  • Mark Egan Jan 29, 2009

    I am going to 2nd what pcastel has said.

    I've gotten to where I don't want to post here, because the Asker seems to not be able to discern between novice advice, and logical progression of diagnosing the problem.

    I have mentioned more than once that the ballast needs to be checked. And I have not see na response, other than "the ballast is OK". Yet I'll see a question later that suggests the Asker just looked at the ballast. I've even gone so far as to give the asker the procedural method and website which says how to check the ballast.

    I agree, it may be someting the Asker did when he made the repairs, but, it could also be someting that failed coincidentily at the saem time. The symptoms of "bulb flashes" are directly akin to how a flouescent light acts when the tube is bad (supposedly replaced new) or the ballast is bad, or near bad. We've all seen it in offices, malls, and commercial lighting.

    I am more than happy to help too, but there comes a time when it's time to cut my losses and move on, which I pretty much have done. I will usually scan the responses by the Asker and others, and this one just caught my eye, as it looked like others are beginning to catch on.




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Try doing a hard reset by leaving the set UNPLUGGED for at LEAST 4 hours. Also check or try a new fuse

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 24, 2009

    the fuse is located on the circuit board next to tor in the power supply

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 24, 2009

    you can do what Mr. Mark said and check the ballast again. I believe the insturctions for checking this might be in the previous thread where I mentioned the ballast before

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 25, 2009

    THE LAMP HOURS NEED TO BE RESET AFTER REPLACING A BULB!!!!!!!!
    Here is instructions for MOST tv's. I don't know if your's is included. But here are the instructions:




    DISCLAIMER

    Let my preface by saying that you should be extremely careful servicing your own TV,
    particularly the halogen bulb on a DLP TV, as they are very expensive,
    get very hot, and contain hazardous materials. If you don't know what you
    are doing, you can injure yourself and/or ruin your TV. If you aren't
    comfortable doing it, then don't.
    That said...



    UH OH

    On 9-30-06, an orange LED indicator lit up on my
    LG RU44SZ61D DLP TV
    above the lamp icon.
    Not knowing what it meant, but having a bad feeling about it,
    I consulted the manual,
    which said that the indicator was a lamp end-of-life indicator and that I would
    need to replace the halogen lamp which provides the projection lighting
    for my TV. Wanting to do it myself and save the service cost,
    I ordered a replacement halogen lamp (an
    alternate source is www.dlplampsource.com).



    THE FIX

    Turns out it took a couple more months for the lamp to finally fail, and
    on 12-23-06, I had to replace it. The TV would not come on--it would try,
    but then the lamp indicator would flash red for a couple of seconds and
    the TV would turn back off. I pulled out the replacement lamp I had ordered,
    grabbed my trusty screwdriver (a fine-point philips with a long shaft ~8" was
    the perfect tool), and unplugged the TV.
    I got the
    plastic lamp access cover off (on the right side of my TV, around the back,
    near the bottom--two screws). At this point, be very careful touching anything inside
    if your lamp has just been on--items may be very hot.
    I then took out the cage that goes around the lamp (three screws) and drew
    a diagram of how the cables were attached to the halogen bulb. After that, I
    un-did the cables affixed to the lamp itself, took out the top bracket holding
    the bulb in place, and loosened the other two brackets. I then gingerly
    pulled the old bulb out, put the new one in, and reversed all my steps.
    The TV turned on just fine when I was done, but the lamp's
    orange end-of-life indicator LED
    was still on. It was at this point that I finally figured out how to
    get my LG TV to show me how many hours were on the lamp (see below) by
    poking through forums on the web. Some of the more helpful forums were
    AV Forums
    and Digital Forum.
    I reset the lamp hours (see below)
    and voila, the end-of-life indicator went out.
    The only thing I didn't do
    correctly, as I gather from reading some forums, is that I handled the new
    bulb with my bare fingers. You're supposed to
    handle the bulbs with rubber gloves
    since the residue from your fingers can be an issue when the bulb heats
    up (doesn't seem to be a problem after a few hours of viewing, though).




    THE LIE

    The LG manual doesn't say how long the
    lamp is supposed to last, but the salesman at the place where I purchased
    the TV assured me it would last 10,000 hours. He told me the lamps cost
    around $300 (try $375), so I did some quick math in my head and figured
    that 10,000 hours would get me through at least 5-6 years (which turned
    out to be a good guess).
    On 12-23-06, when my lamp failed after about 2.2 years of use,
    I had 4,250 hours on the lamp (see some caveats about this in
    the updates section below).
    Spending $400 every two years on the set is certainly a
    different ball game than every six years, and I've also read on forums
    that the ballast for the lamp (probably contains some sort of
    DC-to-high-voltage converter?) will eventually fail, too!
    [Note: bulbs are much less expensive as of 2008--see updates below.]
    I've found conflicting reports about DLP projection TV
    lamp life. This site says 10,000 hours, but
    this
    one
    (which was originally at
    this link) says only 1000(!) to 6000 hours.
    -->
    Consumer Reports had a recent
    issue that claimed a typical life of about 5,000 hours--close to what I got.
    This is the dirty little secret
    that the DLP vendors are sweeping under the rug.

    And, to add insult
    to injury, you can't just throw away the old lamp, because it contains
    mercury!




    CONCLUSION

    I'll see how long my new lamp
    lasts, but I am disappointed in DLP sets because of this
    lamp life issue. Don't get me wrong. I do like my TV--I think
    the picture quality
    is quite good. Monday Night Football broadcasts in high def are just
    gorgeous, but my TV also needed two separate repairs during the first year
    of its life (under warranty, fortunately). At this point
    I would not recommend DLP TVs
    to people interested in HDTV,
    especially if LCD sets continue to come down in price (though I'd want
    to make sure there wasn't a similar life issue with backlight on
    whatever LCD TV set I'd purchase).



    UPDATES

    12-24-06: (One day after posting!) I received an e-mail which claims
    that "bulbs manufactured early on didn't come close to the suggested
    life span of the manufacturer but improvements to the bulbs and process
    since should have them coming very close to the suggested life span."
    Like I said, we'll see how my next bulb does.



    2-28-07: Here's a thread about
    another problem that a few DLP owners are having with an uneven display.



    11-7-07: I received an e-mail from a user
    who has this same LG DLP set and states that he got 4,500 hours on his
    first bulb and 8,000 hours on his second bulb, so that is consistent
    with the information I received on 12-24-06.



    1-31-08: The cost of the bulb seems to be running around $200 these days.



    4-5-08: I just had a user e-mail me that he got
    nearly 8,500 hours on his first lamp (he purchased his set very close to
    when I purchased mine), so perhaps my lamp life was on the short side
    of the average.



    5-1-08: Here's a bulb for $130.



    9-25-08: I've had two e-mails in the last month or so
    to let me know that the lamp life in DLP TVs can be extended by decreasing
    the factory brightness and/or contrast settings
    , so make sure you don't
    have these set unnecessarily high.



    LAMP HOUR RESET ON LG RU44SZ61D DLP TV


    Note: This does not require a service remote.

    1. With the TV on, press and hold the MENU button on the TV front panel.

    2. While holding that button, press and hold the MENU button on your remote.

    3. Hold both buttons for ~5 seconds until the service menu comes up on the TV.

    4. Release the remote MENU button first, then the TV MENU button.

    5. Press and hold the ENTER (or OK) button on the TV front panel (see Notes 2 and 3).

    6. While holding that button, press and hold the MUTE button on the remote.

    7. Hold both buttons until the Lamp Life Hours show up on your TV screen.

    8. Release the MUTE button first, then the ENTER button on the TV front panel.

    9. Make a note of the lamp hours if you want.

    10. To reset the lamp hours, press the SELECT button (the one between
    the four arrow keys with two concentric circles on it) on your remote.

    11. It will ask you to confirm the reset--press SELECT again to confirm.

    Note 1: To verify you've reset the hours, you can repeat steps 1-9 above and then just press the EXIT button on your remote.

    Note 2: One person on a forum claimed that steps 5. and 6. above have to be switched.

    Note 3: For a 44SZ8D TV, replace step 5. with:

    5. Press ENTER on the TV to enter the position adjustment

    5a. Press and hold ENTER on the TV front panel (the TV will re-enter
    the menu; keep holding ENTER while you press and hold MUTE on the
    remote. After approx 5 seconds, the lamp life counter will appear).





  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 26, 2009

    The signal would not interfere with tv, you would just get a blue screen.

    Your blinking lights mean, "I-Prot". The probable cause locations listed are as follows:

    1. +13V is not supplied (A board)
    2. IC561 is faulty (A board)



  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 26, 2009

    A-board = main digital board



  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 27, 2009

    Resetting your Samsung DLP Lamp Hour Meter / Counter



    Thursday, February 15th, 2007 @ 11:44 am


    This is a quick reference guide to show you how
    to reset your Samsung DLP TV’s lamp hour meter or hour counter.
    Resetting the counter is a very simple proceedure.

    Begin with the TV powered off.

    Point your remote towards your TV.

    Press:

    Mute + 1 + 8 + 2 + Power.

    Your TV set should now say “Loading Factory”.

    Browse down to “Option” then press Enter (or the right cursor button).

    NOTE: The Mute+1+8+2 buttons needs to be pressed down consecutively
    and fairly quickly. If your TV does not enter the service menu after
    using this combination, you can subsitute MENU instead of MUTE. This
    seems to work for some sets. Also, the right cursor arrow also acts as
    the ENTER button, so try it if you’re having difficulty with the ENTER
    button.

    To exit the service menu, hit press the EXIT button or just turn off
    your TV (remember not to turn on your TV immediately afterwards!).


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 28, 2009

    After more studying of the service manual for your tv, I do believe your ballast is bad or the solder welds are coming loose.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 29, 2009

    remove the wires to your lamp door. try turning on the tv with the wire disconnected and then while twisted together and connected. I would believe it's your lamp door or your ballast, which you can test with a voltmeter, placing probes in each wire and reading the volts witch should be 13 volts.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 29, 2009

    check your flyback to make sure it clicks when turning on. Also listen to your ballast to see if it clicks when turning on.



  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 31, 2009

    I would suggest the new lamp+adapter. Looks like you’ve got one of the
    oldest DLP TVs Samsung made (the HLN437W), and so the ballast is
    running on a 100W system.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 31, 2009

    I would also suggest checking your PCP Board that connects to the Ballast may have short circuits

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 31, 2009

    A tech from Samsung tells me to tell you to replace your Sub-Detector board,

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 03, 2009

    The light engine is basically the heart of the TV, beyond that there's
    really only one other critical component (that I'm aware of), the
    digital board. So by replacing the light engine he's replacing the
    light, ballast, color wheel, DMD board and DLP chip.

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Chris,
I think now its time to call TV tech as you have tried every thing to fix TV.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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  • 535 Answers

Remove the lamp & clouer whel replce new & try to on

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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  • 19,396 Answers

I do not know if you Fix the problem already.

If nothing else worked, try removing lamp and colour wheel and putting them back in place.

If this still does not work, you will need to call a technician to fix the TV.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 26, 2009

    Your TV is quite an expensive set, if you have not managed to sort out
    lamp and color wheel on all this time, it is better calling a local
    Tech.

    Now that you have parts, cost for fitting lamp and wheel
    will be $80/$100, call few local shop and find who has good fares for
    such a basic repair, instead of risking to damage further an expensive
    set.

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I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) .if the dmd boad is having any thing short it can show this problem.still after u replace the bulb and the colour wheel if it shows the same problem .then either the covers are not fitted properly or the problem in dmd board.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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1. Turn the TV Off, let it rest for a good 1/2 hour..
2. unplug it, let it rest for another 1/2 hour...
3. Pull out the lamp, RESEAT the lamp...
4. scotch tape or duct tape the sensor on the enclosure door...
5. turn on your set.
If this does not solve the problem, then most likely it is the lamp.
The problem could be with lamp or ballast? The whining noise refer to ballast might be a possibility.

Samsung TV's ballasts are being reported to fail frequently due to power outages because the ballast connects the bulb.

For starter no need to replace anything just try to check out all the connections because sometimes they are not fully connected.

Try cleaning the air filters.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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check outr this first as you have replaced and checked the lamp but if its not been seated properly this happens.this is common.
Look at the connector plug at the top of the lamp so you know what you’re dealing with. Carefully slide the new lamp back in the same way the old one came out. That plug needs to connect with it’s mate, and the two tabs that the screws are on will meet flush with the ends of the rails. It can be tricky to get the new lamp back in. I watched a repair guy struggle with it for quite a while once. He just kept wriggling it. I wouldn’t recommend using force, however. Keep trying, it’ll go.
Once it’s in, tighten the screws that should already be there attached to the lamp.
Close up the access panel
Put the cover back on the set and secure it with the screw. The television has a sensor and will not turn on if this panel is not in place. This is a safety feature as things get hot in there.
Turn on the TV
Power up the television and if all went well, your set should start up like the old friend you know and love.

how to replace the colour wheel with diagram and procedure
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/

how to replace the lamp in 5 minutes with diagram and procedure
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/08/03/how-to-change-your-samsung-dlp-lamp-in-5-minutes/
.just reset every thing and it will work.
thanks.


Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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Its quite possible that the wheel is not fitted properly .its allignment is not proper.just remove and refit it properly and check out.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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I would watch from the side or rear while someone tries to turn the set on: Does the lamp light even for a few seconds?

Second: I would also with set unplugged remove lamp cartridge and look at the color wheel: is it intact and not shattered?

The color wheel can make a high pitched or fan like sounds before it fails.

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Before you rate this information let me know what you find or if you have questions.


sd_tech_81.jpg




SD TECH

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