I had this same problem. The screws fasten to the tub from the outside of the tub. There are screws on the left side of the dryer (doing this from memory) and screws that hold the door on.
First of all, unplug your dryer before working on it. Common sense right?
Next, remove the door. It is easy to take on and off. Unscrew the screws at the hinges. From there you can remove the front panel by lifting up and out.
Next get a flashllight and small/short screwdriver. You will need a short screw driver as there is not much room inside. You can reach in and either tighten or replace the screws.
I found this to be a good time to vacuum out any loose lint that found it's way in the interior of the dryer.
Tighten it and then put the front back on and replace the door. There you go! Hope that helps.
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for passenger side:
1. unclip screw cover 'center flap' of inside door opener plastic cover, flap is 3/8"x 3/8" (center of plastic cover)
2. remove phillips screw now showing
3. push fabric panel (edge of door opener plastic cover-at hinged end of chrome handle) to allow uncliping of edge of plastic cover (top rt & lwr rt (for passenger side) of plastic cover)
4. open chrome inside door handle to allow plastic cover to be removed-slide plastic cover toward rear, free end of door to remove cover
5. remove switch panel-gently pry with wide non maring pry bar (cover wide blade screwdriver using cloth) do rear of sw panel 1st (don't pry front edge)
6. slide switch panel toward rear to allow removal
7. remove large phillips screw under sw panel
8. remove the 2 plastic covers near top, hinge edge -use plastic spoon handles to encourage caps to pop off. May also require small screwdriver approx 1/8" in to complete pop off
9. remove the 2 phillips screws w/ captive washers
10. remove 3 phillips/hex screws along the bottom inside of door panel
11. on outside/rear edge of panel push the 2 center pins of each in about 1/8"-this allows the clip to be pulled out w/ pin pushed in
12. remove plastic cover (REAR OF SIDE MIRROR)-pull window edge up and back.
13. lift rear of door panel (not hinge edge) up allow hinge edge to pivot around lower pin in door (hinge edge)
14. remove the 2 rt edge "L" brackets (gently pry center plastic pin out) (note the color and replace as removed)
15. slowly peel the clear plastc away from the non hinged end to expose the plastic panel with 3 phillips head screws
16. remove the 3 screws and panel for access to door handle.
17. using access area now available unlatch the rod attached to exterior door handle (unclip plastic to rotate clip up to allow rod to slide out-toward hinged edge)
18. using access area now available remove rod from ext door handle from inside door area
19. remove the 3 -10mm head bolts
20. remove the ext door handle (bottom edge out first)
reverse order to replace door handle
Sounds like the clips that hold the rods, that operate your inside/outside door handles have come loose. You will have to get the door panel off...but first...you'll have to get the door open. OK...where your inside door "lever" is located....there is a plastic cover behind that lever.....also, there might be a small plastic access cover... over the screw that holds on this larger cover in place. If so....pop the little access cover off and there will be a screw behind it. (keep in mind...this is behind the inside door lever you pull on to open the door) remove the screw...remove the cover...you should now be able to see where the rod has come loose. if you cant grab it with your fingers, get a pair of pliers and pull forward ( toward the front of the car) to open the door. Make sure the door lock is off also. You may find the clip that holds the rod to the lever is broken or the rod has just fallen out of the clip. Sometimes, you can wire the clip into place so it dosnt come loose again. At this point, you will want to remove the door panel....because the "outside door lever...rod...is also loose...in which case you will need access to the inside of the door to fix it. Just remember, you only want to this once...so while in there...fix it right....
Try to post back and let me know If I helped you solve your problem. It will help me with my rating....! Thanks
Hi, Check inside the drum for loose plastic bars that help tumble the
clothes. If you can shake them, open the cabinet top and tighten the
bar screws on the outside of the drum. If any appear stripped and don't
tighten, remove the bar from the machine and inspect for cracking
around the screw holes. If found, replace with new parts. Otherwise,
try breaking off matchsticks in the holes and see if the screws will
tighten. The top is either held on with screws in the back--then slide
the top backwards to remove, or there is a pair of spring clips in the
front corners that require a thin putty knife to be slid into each clip
and pushed until the clip releases. The back end of the top usually has
plastic hinges and won't come entirely free of the cabinet. Hope this
sometimes a plumber leaves an access panel to get at the drain and jets under the tub---it's usually small and may not be enough to get a body in---usually the grab bars are permanently glued or siliconed on a fiberglass/plastic tub....a cast iron, or other non-plastic type tub may have removable grab bars...look for access area, or you may just have to cut out a piece of the wall to look----or if you do find a small access panel, and can get a telescoping mirror to look back at the back of the grab bar underneath the tub, you will find your answer----or you could contact the original manufacturer of the tub, and they can tell you if the grab bars are removable....another solution is to coat/paint/sandblast the metal bars however you'd like them to be
Drain pump screen is clogged. If its makeing a bad grinding sound the pump will need to be replaced. Otherwise disasembly of the machine is required to access pump area to clean out screen. Dextrous people can probaly do this from the back or underneath unit. Its difficult and I don't recomend it to beginers or people who arn't handy. Easiest/prefered method: (This is the one I use.)
Method A units that have a bottom access panel. ie: front panel not one seamless peice.
-lean back against wall for easy access.
-remove two #2 square screws form access panel.
-Loosen clamp holding hose to tub. (Big black one around 2" in diameter.)
-remove and clean screen.
-reassemble machine and test pump operation.
Method B units the have seamless front panel.
-remove top. 3 screws @ back, slide top away from machine to remove.
-remove 2 screws holding console onto chasis.
-remove 3 screws @ and behind disp area.
-Remove console. ( tab may be holding to front panel @ middle bottom use putty knife to pry up.)
-remove 4 screws holding front pannel @ top to chasis.
-remove 2 screws holding frong pannel to chasis inside machine. Acess from top. (some models only.)
-remove bottom screws either 4 or 2 usally 4.
-remove two screws holding door lock to front panel
-remove spring from around bellow.
-remove bellow from front pannel
-remove front pannel. Tilts forward and lifts up off supports. (some models only.) or pannel ifs up and off from white tabs in side of chasis.
-unhook wires to door lock from front pannel. (plastic molex tab)
-may now access pump like in method A.
-access pump area
-remove drain hose to pump by looseing clamp and pulling off.
-remove hose to tub by losseing clamp and pulling off.
-remove power connection at back left of pump.
-unscrew two philips screws holding pump too base plate. (only one is really required.)
-clean pump screen or add one if not present.
-replug in power
-test pump operation
Happened on my dish washer too. Remove lower rack, remove lower spray arm by removing the center plastic nut, check screws (torx) on outside edge of pump. Tighten these as necessary, mine were loose causing water to spray forward against the tub causing leakage.
you should be able to Open the top of the Dryer, from front to back, U might need to pry the front corners up with a flat tip screw driver. It should hinge to the back, to expose the Tub... Hope this Helps U...