I recently got a new airconditioner. The fan works on it, but the compressor does not engage. It draws alot of power momentarily, then shuts off. I also bypassed the thermostat, yet the compressor still doesnt start. When the air conditioner tries to start the compressor, the voltage on the power line drops from 115volts to 60volts, it seems like its drawing alot of power when its trying to start the compressor. The air conditioner i bought is a basic model, with mechanical control.
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Re: Haier AC Problem Troubleshoot.
Your compressor is faulty, you could test this with an ohm meter or a mega tester to confirm that you have continuity between windings and earth or that the insulation on one of the start or run windings has overheated and broken down. Before you give up though, you can try to change the compressor capacitor, with same rated microfarad capacitor.
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THE DEFROST SETTING CALLS FORE THE AC COMPRESSOR TO ENGAGE TO DRY THE HUMIDITY. THE CAR IS STALLING PERHAPS BECAUSE OF THE LOAD PUT UPON THE ENGINE BY THE ENGAGEMENT OF THE AC COMPRESSOR. THE COMPRESSOR MAY BE LOCKED UP
first thing check AC compressor fuse.the AC compressor clutch should engage when you turn on airconditioner if AC compressor dont come on and fuse okay compressor clutch is open or low on refrigerant you need check your AC refrigerant low pressure side and high pressure side need a manifold gauge set. best let garage check out AC system could need system recharged or could have leak in the system.
I passed this question the first time I read it, so I will take a stab at it now. The fans don't come on until the compressor has pumped the freon pressure up to say 150 or 200 psi. And the compressor clutch has to have voltage to engage the clutch. I wonder if the clutch is going and needs 14 volts instead of 12 to engage ? Or the relay that powers the clutch ? Speeding up the engine would increase voltage from the alternator. This is assuming the serpentine belt is tight and everything else is working correctly. I think I would swap the relay with another and put a meter on that circuit to the ac clutch to see what it takes to engage it.
if the lower fan speeds dont work but the fastest speed does the heater fan resistor block needs replacing. If the highest fan speed doesnt work leave it on there and check for power at heater blower fan, if power is on one wire and the other is an earth the blower motor fan needs replacing. Use a normal globe test light to check this. If no power on any wires to fan go back and check all fuses in car and under bonnet with same test light. If fuses are ok possible open circuit wire to fan.
Usually just listening closely will give you a rough idea where to look for problem. When you have the fan on and switch to cool, (with temperature turned down low obviously) do you hear any type of "moaning" sounds from AC unit, or see lights in RV dim slightly indicating that compressor is trying to engage? Is the breaker tripping when compressor tries to engage? Do you hear a "click" from AC unit when switched to cool? If none of that happens, then I'd start thinking thermostat, or compressor relay. Normally if it's a faulty capacitor, the compressor will try to engage but will make a "moaning sound" and usually trip the breaker due to excess current draw. Someone experience in electrical should be able to test relays etc, but whoever does work on it, should be aware that those capacitors, as well as hydro in general are very dangerous to work with. The ("zap",- Shock) that you can experience from a capacitor or hydro, can be fatal.
low voltage issues causes higher amp draw and equipment to run a lot harder. whats causing the low voltage problem to the equipment? high amp draw of the compressor could be causing it to overheat and trip until the compressor physically cools down.