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It should automatically restart.....BUT what happened is that when you unplugged it, you cut off the blower at the same time you cut off the heat element(s). The way it is supposed to work, is the thermostat cuts power off to the elements and the fan continus to run for a per-determined amount of time to remove al the heat from the elements. Then another 'fan control switch' shuts off the fan once the 'residual' heat is removed from the heater. Without that 'cool down' cycle, the hot element had enough 'residual' heat in it to trip off the 'thermal overload' in the circuit. The 'thermal overload'... or...'hi limit'...or...'hi temperature control' is resposible for shutting power off to the element(s) in the event that the blower fails.
How do you know power is at the outdoor unit? Did you check it with a meter? Check your breaker. If there's power at the outdoor unit, then shut the power and test your contacter. If the contacter has supply power then check the low voltage (24-28 volts) that operates the contacter, and if none check the low pressure cut-out,high pressure cut-out and make sure the thermostat is calling for cool. All ok so far, then test your capacitor. I forgot to mention to check for loose, broken, and disconnected wires.
I had a tumble dryer that stopped working and after much investigation it turned out to be an internal thermostatic switch and lots of fluff around the internal filters. ( Mine had 2 of them 1 would cut the heat and kick back in when the temperature dropped and the other one would completely cut all power rendering the drier non usable until cicuit breaker thermostat was replaced. The reason they cut out is to prevent overheating and possible fire. When the thermostat gets to certain temperature it breaks the circuit. Apparently you shouldn't stop the drier until it has completely cooled down as there will be too much heat which could cause a fire, which is why most drier cycles have 10 minutes of cool/ non heated air at the end.
So in conclusion I would take all the filters out and give them a good clean and try to avoid opening the door while there is still a lot of heat in the drier. I'm not sure if this will help but its a starting point.
If that's a variable speed motor(?), I've seen them do some strange things. Not that scenario that you have though. If it's under a parts warranty, have your tech start changing some things out, motor, control board to start with. It appears that your thermostat may be loosing contact? I know he bypassed it but how? And was the bypass for a few minutes or so? Or that you're issue seems to occur after 5-15 mins of operation, and that just happens to be a long enough run time to closely reach the set temp. at the thermostat. And that getting close has nothing to do with it, but the 15 mins of runtime is a better description. So have your tech over, warn them it may take 2 hrs, and pay him to hang around a catch it acting up. And set your tstat to allow it to get cold inside so it will run a lot when he gets there. Also, when it acts up, turn your fans' AUTO/ON switch to on, and see if it qits acting up. Not sure what that will answer but it may help you tech, depending on how it's wired. Hope this helps!
All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.
The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.
if the inside unit is running but the outside unit isn't - I would check the fuses or breaker. I suspect you have a blown fuse or a tripped breaker.
What is also possible is that the 'low voltage' thermostat wire (coming from the thermostat inside the house) has been cut - possibly by a lawn mower or weed eater - or chewed into by a dog.
If this is the case - you easily splice (with all power off) the wires back together using the color of the individual wires.
problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit
thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access
the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect
the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it
properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is
indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if
the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem.
It is an easy and cheap repair to make.
The thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit
thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30. In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit
thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the
dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer
still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above