Commercial stool doesn't flush even with good water pressure
The water was shut off for 3 weeks and the extra lines were removed so that we could drain them and shut our warehouse down. We cut and capped the lines except for the bathrooms.
The water was never drained from any of the stools, urinals, or water fountains. When we turned the water back on the 2 water fountains, 2 urinals, 2 basins, and 2 stools will not flush even with good water presasure.
What is odd is that the 2 stools on the end of the water lines work great but nothing inbetween works. I have removed the hoses to the basins and removed a slug looking mess fromboth the hot water and cold water lines but water can't get past the rest of what ever is in the lines.
My main concern it getting the stools to flush and and how to disassemble the stools and the urinal.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You can probably only adjust the amount of water to be used in the flush. Adjust the water intake valve so that more water comes into the tank by raising the float mechanism. New, water-saving devices may not be adjustable. You'll just have to flush twice--negating any saving of water, right?
Obviously the drain line from your toilet to main drain out of the house ( used by upstairs ) has a blockage from your toilet line to "Y" in to main drain line. Depending on how it has been plumbed, there may be a clean-out between the 2 that can be used to remove the blockage. Your drain for shower is piped in to same line as toilet, thus when blocked at other end, overflows to shower. You can try some drain cleaner down shower drain if it will go. You might get lucky and release the blockage before plumber shows up .
Shut off water to tank and drain tank by flushing , then use a sponge to soak up any left. Disconnect water line, then 2 of 1/2" nuts at base of toilet ( floor ) . Lift toilet off, clean old wax off toilet and flange at floor, and install new wax gasket. Set toilet down straight and aligned with gasket and flange as well as studs. Make sure toilet is all way down on new wax gasket ( sit on it and move around a bit until toilet feels steady on floor ) then put nuts washers etc back on and snug it up. Don't tighten too much and snap base, just good and snug.
These shut-off valves don't last long before they lock up. There is always the chance that they'll break. Go ahead and turn off the main water valve, then remove the packing nut (Google images for valve packing nut). This should allow you to turn the valve stem. However, you still run the risk of not being able to get to shut off. I almost always have to replace these shut-off valves whenever replacing a faucet anyway. So, assuming the valves are threaded on to the supply pipe (not soldered) then buy replacement valves as a very first step. I am assuming you won't want to do the soldered fitting yourself.
No diagram available, but I should be able to walk you through the process easy enough. First, make sure your water is off and you have relieved the existing pressure by opening a nearby faucet until the water stops running. Then remove the handle. Under the handle there will be a nut that can be removed with an adjustable crescent wrench or water pump pliers (if you use the pliers be careful not to mar the surface.) Make note of which way the stopper for the handle is sitting, this is the raised piece of plastic on top of the stem. Then after the nut is removed, you can use some pliers to grab the center of the stem and pull straight out. Once the stem is out, inside the faucet you will see the seat (the rubber piece) sitting down in a little hole and under that a spring. These two pieces are typically the culprit for the leaking faucet so make sure you replace these as well or the faucet will continue leaking. Then working in reverse order, put the new items back in place and then before tightening the handle in place, turn the water back on and check for leaks at the handle as well as the spout. If you have any leaks, tighten the nut at the handle if that is what is leaking, or turn off the water and start the process again to reposition the seat and spring. Good luck, you can do it.
It could be debris in the cartridge at the tap itself. Whther 2 cartidges or 1 , it wouldn't be uncommon for those to clog up as well, and it really doesn't take much to cause a decrease in flow. Turn water off to tap(s) and remove handles, then cartridges in behind with proper socket or wrench and inspect for debris inside hole cartridge came out of, as well as the cartridge.
I have worked on these for many years. The flapper that's attached to the chain and handle, sometimes drops to soon before the tank gets to fill up enough to flush completely. If the flapper has not been changed for some time, it would be a good time now. I wouldn't change out the toilet unless it is cracked. This is a well made one, and I would want to keep it.
there is an ajustment on most tub and shower valves, remove handle and there is a plastic peice that stops the handle from turning to the hot side to much. try to adjust. you shouldnt have to shut water off to house, but to be safe you might want to.