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Tank no getting hot enogh

I purchased a whirlpool 240V water heater, filled it up and turned on the power, set both thermostats around 150. I have tested the unit with a voltmeter, The top element has power but the bottom element never comes on. The water is luke warm ??? Do I need to turn the temp back down so the bottom element will kick on ? Help before my wife kills me.

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It sounds like the lower element is defective from the factory. There is an 800 number on the heater, and they will ask for a serial number. The temp range on the heating elements will not affect the performance of the water heater, as it is filled from the bottom

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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My water gets cooler after a few minutes but if i turn the knob up the water gets warm again. I have replaced the elements and thermostats so what else could it be? I did see calcium in it when I replaced...


You replaced elements and thermostats on electric water heater.
You have some hot water and that says:
-Upper element is working
-240V circuit is OK and upper thermostat receiving 240 at terminals L1 L3
-Reset is not tripped, and tank is not overheating so elements are not shorted to ground
-Covers and insulation were re-installed and thermostat is not overheating tank from exposure to cool air.

That leaves following suspects:
1) Sediment build-up located in bottom of tank will interfere with lower element
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

2) Loose wire between upper and lower sections of tank
3) New thermostat is bad or wire connection at thermostat is loose.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

4) Upper thermostat wired incorrectly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

5) Leaking faucet or TP valve running hot water out of tank, so tank cannot keep up.
Inspect TP outlet and other faucets.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 15, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

3 Answers

Not enough hotwater cant take afull shower ive replaced elements &thermostats iset them at140 degres its a 40gal.


I suggest a complete troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

The fact that you get some hot water says upper element is working and tank is receiving 240V.
So circuit is not suspect, and new upper element probably reads correct ohms.
That leaves 4 suspects: upper thermostat, lower thermostat. lower element, loose or broken wire located between upper and lower parts of tank.

It is possible to replace lower element and not clean out sediment, so water is not circulating around element, and lower element is not really doing much of a job.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 10, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Whirlpool E1F50RD045V 50 gal elec. , top element is on bottom element is not getting 208 v, removed both legs from bottom stat has120v on each side not getting 208 from top , is their a relay not closing...


Sounds like you might have a thermostat problem, or burned out lower element
Lower thermostat and both elements will test for 120V at all times because upper thermostat only cuts off one leg of 240V circuit, and other leg is hot all the time.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Yes, the elements alternate being turned ON.
This is called non-simultaneous operation.
Look at label on side of tank: Each element has rating of 4500Watts, but tank rating is also 4500Watts > that shows that both elements are not ON at same time.
This is standard wiring for water heaters.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Water heaters can we wired differently, for example converted to simultaneous operation where upper thermostat and lower thermostat are no longer wired together, so upper and lower parts of tank are independent.
Lower thermostat is replaced with ECO protected thermostat identical to upper thermostat.
Another 240V circuit breaker is added to breaker panel, and that 240V line runs directly to lower thermostat. So upper and lower thermostats are each on separate 240V line.
The advantage of simultaneous is faster recovery of hot water, but downside is probably higher electric bill. Simultaneous wiring is usually reserved for larger tanks like 80 gallons, where elements can fall behind the amount of hot water needed.
Otherwise, ordinary non-simultaneous operation is proven to be satisfactory, if your home has not experienced shortages.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-off-peak-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

Add a comment for more free help.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 08, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Hi...I have a Whirlpool water heater and the water only stays hot for a few minutes. How do I adjust the temperature or settings so that I can have hot water all the way through the shower instead of...


I am guessing this is an ele water heater and the temp setting are not the problem.
Problem: Not enough hot water or water temperature too low. When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

The dip tub is located under the fitting where the hot water comes out.

Feb 03, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Have sta kleen 805 , have power,240 v no hot water


If I understand correctly, your water heater circuit tested for 240 Volts.

1) If circuit has power on one leg of the 240V circuit, water heater can appear to have electricity, but won't turn on since 240V needs both legs to complete the 240V circuit. Solution: test for 240 across top two screws on upper thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

2) ECO reset button tripped on upper thermostat. Solution, push in reset button. If reset will not reset, then replace upper thermostat. I usually replace both upper and lower thermostats at same time: cost $28. Buy parts from home center or hardware store. Be sure to put factory-insulation and covers back so thermostat is not exposed to cooler outside temperatures, that cause hotter water than set point.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) If ECO reset button keeps tripping, then keep resetting until you can test water heater parts. Spend 30 minutes and do complete troubleshoot on tank.
Buy cheap multi-meter from home center. When test calls for checking voltage, rotate dial to 240-250-277 VAC. When test calls for checking continuity or elements, rotate dial to Ohms (upside down horseshoe is ohms).
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Dec 29, 2010 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

1 Answer

No hot or warm water what is the voltage reading susposed to be on the heating elements? I have 122 volts on each terminal on both elements but no action, what am i doing wrong?


If water is totally cold, then upper element is not getting 240V. Since element tested for 120V, then that says upper element is burned out, upper thermostat is bad, or circuit breaker is bad.
Best thing is to buy multimeter and do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Also read information below for understanding how water heater works.

Testing elements for voltage can be misleading.
If water heater has 2 elements, then tank is 240Volts.
240V water heaters have 120V on each element at all times.
So elements have hot 120V power, but they are not turned on until the circuit is complete with 240V.
Open following links to read specifics about 120V and 240V
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html

240V is made from two 120V Hot wires from breaker box.
Each 120V line from breaker is called a 'leg.'
So 240V circuit has two legs, and both legs need to be turned on to complete 240V circuit.

Water heater thermostats turn off only one leg.
The other leg is Hot all the time.
So when you test screws on an element, for example test between a screw and any bare metal part of tank, then the screw will always show 120V.
That is just one leg of the 240V circuit.
But the 240V circuit is not turned On until both legs are connected.
Every residential circuit needs two wires to complete the circuit, and in the case of 240V, those two wires are both 120V.

When the thermostat turns on, it turns on the second leg to the element and that completes the 240V circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Dec 16, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Replaced both lower and top elements and upper thermostat still no hot water. proper elec. going to unit.what could it be?


You need to take 1/2 hour to learn basics and then test water heater parts before replacing anything.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
Follow the troubleshooting steps, and it will tell you exactly where the problem is.
Otherwise we can guess at 20 different things.

Water heater is 240V because you have more than 1 element.
Did you test for 240V across top two screws of upper element?
Breaker can be tripped off on one leg and 120V arrives at water heater so heater looks like it has electricity, but circuit is not complete.

The problem can be loose wire, bad 240V circuit breaker, sediment reaching lower element, bad thermostat, bad upper element, tripped ECO reset button.

Did you replace factory insulation and cover over thermostats after replacing elements?
Did you vacuum out sediment when replacing lower element?

How long ago did you replace elements? If you turned power ON before tank was completely filled with water, then you burned out the element. If upper element is burned out, the tank has no hot water, even if lower element is good.
Test the upper element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
See how a water heater works:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

And finally, why so many folks write to fixya saying they replaced both elements and upper thermostat, but they never replace lower thermostat for another $6? I have been puzzled about that since lower thermostat turns on and off each time tank temperature drops and is responsible for keeping water warm during standby hours. Lower thermostat cycles more times than upper thermostat.

Add a comment if you need specific assistance with any of the testing steps.

Dec 14, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

What is the energy factor for the mod.82V80-2? I have two seperate 30amp circuits, one for the top element and one for the bottom element, if that changes anything.


http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=052c9e32-ce37-48d7-8990-9e430f23fef3

82V80-2 Energy factor is .86 according to water heater industry self-regulated standards.

Rheem pdf says these water heaters are wired for non-simultaneous operation.
Except special order water heaters.
Non-simultaneous operation uses single 240V circuit as described below.
If your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and each element is on a separate circuit, that makes your water heater special order. I would guess the reason is for higher first-hour delivery, which implies rapid heating and would likely affect energy factor.
You might want to get serial number off model and call Rheem for specs on that special order.

Your water heater energy factor may be the same because 'energy efficiency is based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day.' This means an aircraft carrier can be considered highly efficient despite overall cost. And naturally the guys making the aircraft carrier are also doing the rating.
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000

Non simultaneous operation means the upper thermostat controls heating functions.
240V goes to upper thermostat first.
When water inside tank is cold, thermostat reads temperature through tank wall.
Upper thermostat turns on upper element until top 2/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
Once set point is reached, upper thermostat turns off upper element and sends power to lower thermostat and lower element.
Lower thermostat reads temperature through tank wall, and turns on lower element until bottom 1/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
As water cools inside tank, lower thermostat is first to respond since hot water rises.
Lower thermostat turns on lower element until tank again reaches set point.
When hot water faucet is turned on, hot water exits top of tank.
At same time, cold water enters bottom of tank through the dip tube.
The heating cycle repeats.
At all times, the electricity flows through upper thermostat. And upper thermostat is powered by one 240V circuit.

With simultaneous operation, the upper and lower thermostats work in same manner.
Except thermostats are wired separately.
Lower thermostat does not wait for upper part of tank to be heated first.
Lower thermostat turns on whenever lower part of tank cools.
The advantage is more hot water available rapidly when demand is high. This is called first hour recovery.

One method for reducing electric consumption is to set lower thermostat so it only turns on during certain times of day. For example Whirlpool Energy Smart operates in this manner and shaves a few bucks off the bill each month. This says that simultaneous operation is not an energy saver, unless that circuit controlling lower thermostat is set on a timer.

Dec 06, 2010 | Rheem 80 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

My electric 58 gal whirlpool water heater runs out of water faster then normal. I took my amp probe and had current draw on lower element but not on upper then turned thermostat up heared relay click then...


http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

You have a 240V electric water heater because you have an upper and lower element

The upper thermostat works in the manner you have discovered
.
In residential electric water heaters, the upper element is ON or the lower element is ON, or both elements are OFF.
This is called non-simultaneous operation.
Non-simultaneous operation means the elements are never turned ON at the same time.

Because water heater thermostats only turn off one leg of the 240V circuit, the upper and lower elements will always have power on the two screws, but not across the two screws.
This power is 120V and the circuit is not complete so the element will not heat.
So if you test any element, it will always show at least 120V
Only when the thermostat clicks ON is the 240V circuit completed, and the element turns ON.

Identify the problem:
1) The shortage of hot water is caused by a bad upper or lower thermostat or a bad lower element.
We know the upper element is working because you have some hot water. If the upper element was burned out, you would have no hot water because the upper thermostat would never click over and send power to lower part of water heater.

2) It sounds like your upper thermostat is clicking on and off, so I would test the lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

Add a comment if you need more information, and I will help.
The do-it-yourself link above will give you full electrical how-to for self-fixing electric water heaters.

Nov 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Installed new upper & lower elements & thermostats, only top htr works


If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

Sep 20, 2010 | Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

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