Can anyone help me with the above. The fan only has approx 167v on its input and makes an effort to run. If I connect it direct to the main it runs OK. You can hear the relay operate when you turn the fan control knob. I suspect the fan is controlled by the Electronic Control board but would like someone with more expertise to confirm. If it is the board, where can I get a replacement. Would appreciate any help.
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Re: Fan will not work
Sound like the blower motor is bad. They have a high and a low speed it is probaly hooked up to low speed not high. The only way to tell if it is the motor or the board is to see if you can change motor wiring on the board. If the board is bad you will need the make,model# and serial# of furnace. You should be able to call a local heating and cooling company and they will be able to get you a control board or a blower motor. You can also check counity on motor windings is the low speed is out. Have you checked the start compasator on the motor
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I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.
You more than likely have a bad fan cycling temperature sensing thermostat. One of the wires to the fan connect directly to the power coming in, the other wire goes through the aforementioned thermostat. Turn the power off, trace the wires, locate the control and replace. Contact a local supplier of that particular brand and they will give you a dealers name. Try a generic one from WWGrainger or Johnstone Supply if you like. With a little effort and a mind for electrical safety, it can be accomplished easily.
Possible bad igniter...igniter should read somewhere from 50-90 ohms. If not it is going bad. Remove igniter (don't touch carbon silicon rods) see if you see minute cracks or white spots. If ohms testing reads in 90 or above range , replace igniter. ( note some rheem, rudd and weather king igniters normal ohm range can be 130-150 ohms).. You might also want to check the igniters connections and control board module to make sure the the igniter is betting the proper voltage to get the igniter hot enough.. 110 volts or about is the input norm to the igniter.
Your pressure switch may not be activating (ie closing and making contacts) This means you could have a blocked flue, clogged pressure switch tube or a bad pressure switch. The pressure switch is a safety feature to ensure your exhaust is not blocked and operating correctly. Find owners manual. Look at trouble shooting section. Open cabinet and look for error code light. If blinking 3 times, try "jumping" the pressure switch. To jump pressure switch you need to clear code be turning off power. When the unit/thermostat calls for heat the power vent fan starts first, this is when you need to jump the pressure switch. You need to do this in sequence. That is the unit first starts the power vent exhaust thus activating the pressure switch allowing the ignition cycle to the burners and heat. So the power vent fan needs to start first BEFORE you put the jumper on to bypass the pressure switch. Once the jumper is on it will call for ignition after approx 30 seconds. If ignites your problem is one of the 3 stated at the opening of this paragraph
I cleaned the sensor that was at the the right further most burner on my Goodman and it worked. got the answer to my problem here at fixya. My burner flame only lasted 5 secs before it shut off. Thanks to all who took the time to send me a response.
Some programmable thermostats have a circulate feature. This feature will allow your fan to run approx. 20 minutes per hour. This will insure better circulation, a better balanced temperature throughout the home & better air quality do to more air filtration. Read your thermostat manual to see if your thermostat has this feature and how to turn it off if needed. Another possibility would be on an older furnace with a fan limit control. If the temperature settings are set to low on the fan limit (or if the control is malfunctioning) you could experience a fan that runs a lot even if the thermostat is off.
The contact are just a set of points. If you can remove them, file or sand, or whatever will do the job, a little on the place where the contacts touch. Usually that's all it takes. Make sure when the switch is turned on the lever/spring assembly moves and at least tries to make them touch. I don't really see a problem with directly wiring the fan. The only drawback is there is no real control except pulling the plug.