Re: need to change the belt, I gotta get the shell off...
First and most important, REMOVE POWER! Then remove the two hex screws below the bottom front panel. Then remove the two screws below the bottom of the upper front panel. Then remove the four screws that hold the panel the front of the drum rides in. Under the drum you will find an idler arm and pully by the motor, push up on the am and remove the belt. Next take the belt from the motor pully, after this you can slide the belt from the drum. I doubt if it is the belt. Look on the front panel that had the four screws. It has two rub strips that the drum rides on and a felt ring. I suspect that these are the problem.
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A dryer kit contains the wheels that the drum turns on, new glides, to keep the drum in place, and a tension pulley for the belt. You may also need a rear bearing. I'd say about $60 in parts and an hour or two & you'd be good to go.
Could be a belt screeching. Fan belt, A/C belt, Serpentine Belt, alternator belt, etc. Easiest way to isolate which belt is to open the hood and use your ears to see where the screeching is coming from. Left, right, front, behind the engine? Spray some WD-40 on the belt you think is making noise and if it quiets right away, then that is the belt making the noise. Either the tensioner needs adjusting or the belt needs replacing. The WD-40 does not hurt the car, it'll start screeching again in a few days when it wears off.
The noise is coming from a moving part. There are only a few that normally cause a problem. Also the dryer drum not turning freely is what broke your belt. Here is what I would replace. Drum rollers, Drum slides and idler pulley. You can check these parts before you replace them. If the drum rollers don't spin real easy, replace. If the idler pulley does not turn easy, replace. If the drum slides are worn, replace. Your model may be one with a front drum bearing. If it looks worn, replace.
You may be able to take dryer apart, try turning drum. Listen for the noise and notice if the drum is hard to turn. If so, you may be able to determine if the problem is in the front or back of drum. Keep on mind that the noise might have been the belt slipping due to the drum being hard to turn. Either way, when you have it repaired, it should run with the noise. Good luck.
the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually getsverynoisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing. Sometimes theinner basket supportwill crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job... A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad... Picture1-Picture2 The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like... Picture1-Picture2-Picture3 I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it. Picture1( boot pushed inside )Help page1-Help page2