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Re: Wire feeds too quickly
Some welders control wire speed with the amps control, some control amps with the wire speed control. You might try turning things up until it runs smoothly without pushing back. If you're new at welding, it does take some practice until it feels right.
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you may need a gun liner, if the liner is kinked the wire will not feed, causing a "birdnest" and if the wadded up wire touches the cabinet while the trigger is keyed it will get hot and try to weld wherever it is grounding e.g. the cabinet. try a liner first they are only 20 bucks
Does the feed wheel move? If so adjust it's tension on the wire. If not, check for voltage at the motor. If there is voltage and no rotation, check for continuity of the winding, there should be less than 5000 ohms. If no continuity replace motor. If continuity- oil the shaft with light motor oil and see if it releases.
If no voltage is measured at motor connections, the fault is on the speed control board. check the fuse, and if that is okay, check the SCR(s) and replace if faulty.
Hello, by pulsates, do you mean that the wire feed is what is pulsating while welding? If so, I have had this as well. I found that by turning down my feed rate, the pulsing stopped and the feed was smooth. I hope this helps. If not, contact me again.
If the feed wheel mechanism does not move, check for voltage at the motor. If there is none present, you need to look for a failure on the control board, which may be a fuse, or even one of the SCR's. Often an 8 amp 200 volt type.
Fist look and check the contact tip. ensure the tip is the correct size for the wire being used as well as the wire feed rollers. the contact tip is were the wire collects the power,
If it's only 3 day's old send it back, dont star strippin it down or you Garantee will be made invalid.
This has happened to me when I tightened the wire spool too tight in the welder,or I had a bad tip that caused some binding,and once my cord had a small kink that damage my wirefeed cord I had to replace.
A schematic would certainly help, give Hobart a call and ask for a wiring diagram. or manual. Hobart are very helpful and may even give you guidance, you may have to pay the postage, they usually fax these documents so it will not cost you anything.
If you are using flux wire and not shielding gas, your clamp should be positive and the wire should be negative. Heat is provided by the electrical arc that happens between the wire and the material. Your welder by itself does not pre heat the material and with 3/16 material you should not need to preheat anyway.
The electrical arc is kept consistent by adjusting the wire feed rate and the current applied. You will need to experiment with these settings to find what works best with your welder. For this welder and 3/16 material, I would suggest you start at the upper end of the current scale and about a third of the way up on wire speed. The welder might have a chart for these settings in the manual or inside cover.
If the wire feeds too fast, it will push the probe around and you will feel pressure as the wire feeds out. If the speed is too slow you will get large spatters and intermittent arcs. When properly adjusted the arc will sound even and consistent. The arc gap should always be about 1/8 of an inch.
To maintain enough heat for good penatration, do not move the probe too fast, work in a pattern and watch the weld pool (melted metal) and not the arc. Watching the weld pool will clue you in if you are moving too fast or too slow.