I have an older A200 that walked it's way off of the table one day and fell on it's face. The spring behind the worm gear broke and fell into the brass/worm gear teeth, and jammed, ect. I replaced the spring, worm and brass gears, changed the grease, seal, inspected case and for cracks, ect. Now, about 9 mos.later, the spring broke again with no "event" preceding and into the teeth it went. So I pull everything, solvent bath, new brass and worm gears, spring, washer, locknut, grease and the worm/brass gears make a slight tick approx. once every motor revolution. I pulled the rear grease cap off the cover, dug away the grease and watched the gears mesh while running for a couple of minutes. There was alot of little filings of brass being deposited on the grease near the worm. The 9 month old brass gear that I pulled out had the teeth worn 2/3 of the way through as well. Shafts and motor shaft all seem to spin true, bearings are solid. Any thoughts? Can the alignment of the worm and brass gears be adjusted at all? Does the brass gear just wear really fast?
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Re: Hobart A200 Worm Gear Shredding Brass Gear
No there are no adjustments . you must have bent the case just a little , i dont see any good news for you , sorry . i have worked on hobart mixers for years and you should get 5-10 years out of that gear
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The first vertical shaft has a brass gear that runs off the rotor. The ancient models had a spring loaded slip clutch built onto the gear. Upgrade it with a worm shaft kit which gives you a complete new shaft and fixed gears. I think it includes the upper and lower bearings. Maybe replace the grease if it has not been done. Or look for a sheared key on the worm shaft.
Short answer: something is worn/broken inside the mixer's transmission.
Since none of the three gears operate, the problem is most likely on either the worm gear shaft (probably the brass worm gear itself) or the "transmission shaft" (ironic name as all three shafts could be called transmission shafts). If you're up to the task of disassembling the transmission, which is a very messy task, you'd probably find the problem on one of the two smaller shafts inside the transmission. You'll most likely find either a broken key or worn brass worm gear. Both of these items may have enough holding strength to operate under very light loads (such as an empty bowl) but slip once a load is presented. Also check the planetary key. Remove the planetary by removing two nuts on the underside of the transmission, where the attachments attach (careful, as the whole thing will drop once the second, thin nut is removed). You will find a long key on the shaft (or in the planetary gear, whichever one it sticks to). Make sure it's not broken, and re-attach the planetary.
Once you're familiar with it, the A200 is OK to work on. Just pay close attention to the sequence in which the gears are removed and lay them out on a table in that sequence. You'd need to remove most of the gears from the center planetary shaft, which requires removal of the shift lever (right side, 4 screws). You shouldn't need to remove the planetary (lower end that holds the attachments and rotates). Eventually you'll be able to remove the smaller shafts as assemblies and replace the brass worm gear.
You'll want to scoop out the grease with brass shavings in it (replace all the grease to be thorough, especially if it has broken down and is very runny or very thick (the grease should be a little bit thinner than the consistency of peanut butter), spin the removed bearings by hand and listen for rough operation (particularly the smaller bearings on the upper end of the two small shafts (bearings in the upper bearing cover). Also check to see that the two brass bushings, which reside in two of the gears removed from the center planetary shaft, spin freely BOTH on the planetary shaft AND in the gear they reside in (if not, one of your speeds probably won't work).
For an experienced technician, the job would take approximately 1-1.5 hours unless the old grease is all cleaned out thoroughly to replace with all new grease (thorough cleaning requires the removal of planetary and planetary shaft), and thorough cleaning can be a time consuming process. Then you might get closer to 2.5 hours.
Check the spring pin that locks the motor shaft to the main drive gear in the gear box. You should be able to turn the motor from the back at the cooling fins and watch the shaft spin in the gear, that is if the pin is sheared. That is a common problem. if you plan on keeping this machine for a while, i recomend that you spend a little more on a quality spring pin,
Harry, if you're confident that you can take it apart and repair it yourself, then do the following. Go to www.hobartservice.com website. Register, and when you've been admitted to the site find the discontinued products section on the left hand side of the page, click on it, then select the Food Machines Group, then select Mixers. Make sure that your ML# is covered by the document.Select the file numbered A-200 Parts List F-6728. pdf. Look for the ML#. Once you've selected the document, go to page #9, there you'll find the exploded drawings for the A 200 transmission parts. If you look at the whole document (15 pages), you should be able to see what needs to be taken apart to get at the worm gear.
If you're not sure you can do this...Then don't do it. But if you do, check all bearings, springs and gears for excessive wear and replace as necessary. Hobart techs do this stuff every day. For someone who has not done this kind of rebuilding before, it can be a long and expensive learning curve. Good luck. If you find that this solution has been helpfull to you, please rate it. ricardok45
the first A-200's have a worm gear drive that will slip when old but also when mixing dough somtimes the dough will push the mixer aherad of its self and look like its slowing but its just catching up. if you have a old worm shaft it will have a spring on it is how to tell. it is replaced with a shaft that is all keyed and has no slip or give unless a key shears.
When you say lag and catch up. This may not be a issue. I have seen this with dough and a spiral hooks on all sizes of Hobarts the hook and dough get in a position to push the hook forward and the drive gears catch back up the hook. in fist gear on the 20 quart this is common for sure. but its normal. if you have a real slip from a sheared key it will not take long to where you can hold the planetary shaft with your hand and stop it. another slip that might be possible is if your mixer has the first generation worm shaft gear Assembly. when it is worn out it will slip you. this is the shaft that drives directly off the motor. you can tell if it's first Gen by it has a large spring on it. the tow later versions are all keyed to the shaft no chance to slip unless a key shears.