I have twin cummins engines in a 14 mt vessell.the starboard engine pump has only required seal replacement in 12 years.the port engine pump is on the 4th or 5th pump due to the seals leaking causing the bearings to stick to the shaft causing wear.cummins nz do the service & each time this happens they install a new pump saying that to replace the shaft would be more expensive..my main concern is why only one engine continually has shaft damage.the latest seal leakage has occured after only 300 hrs of running.the starboard engine pump is still not showing any signs of leakageit costs me about $2000.00 each time cummins replace a pump.i look forward to your reply
To my understanding, there could be 2 possible reasons why the seal would always go bad:
the impeller was initially damaged (missing vane for example) and transfer the uneven rotation/vibration to the shaft damaging the seal (possible but not likely to happen on the same engine multiple times);
driving gear issue. To my understanding, a Sherwood P1722APump is gear driven. 4-5 pumps on the same engine with the same nature of fault indicates something externally is causing the seal problem resulting in shaft premature wear & tear due to bearing failure. It is doubtful if the mounting holes and the bolting holes would be at fault. The only other component/part left that interacts with the pump would be the driving gear.
Series Engine Cooling Check and perform preliminary visual or necessary inspection. Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
This sounds to me like there is another problem causing the seals to leak like a bent housing unit causing them to wear on one engine and not the other! Connings should have looked into the problem further! but I guess they look foward to your 2000.00 dollors after every 300hrs of use!
O would look for another repairman if you are not able to do it yourself!
The problem is likely a mis-alignment of the pump and the impeller shaft. The pump must be exactly aligned with the attached parts in the same manner as the starboard one. The vibration and improper alignment is likely causing excess wear on the port pump. I recommend measuring the parts and clearance around each pump. Re-alignment of the port pump shaft or the attached parts may be required. Please comment and let me know if this solution helps to solve your problem.
"Cummins" can only repair and reseal the pump. Re-alignment of the parts the pump attaches to is another matter. Measure carefully each part and the clearances, compare port and starboard clearances and shift the port side assemblies to match accordingly.
I realize this is easier said than done, please understand that the misfit alignment may now be compounded due to excess wear from continued non-alignment plus the resultant vibration of the adjacent port side assemblies. best wishes, Michael Mittelsdorf
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The impeller is supported at both ends with rubber bushings the impeller shaft wears into the rubber and enlongates the hole this happens over time or if you run the pump dry often. The rubber parts are replaceable.
The pRts of a water pump that wear/go bad ate the bearing, seal and impeller. If there was coolant leaking from around the pulley/impeller shaft when it was still installed the seal is bad. If there is any play in the shaft, or it was making noise ehile running, the bearing is bad. Once removed check for worn or broken blades on the impeller. Hope that helps.
Right start by running engine and testing for the radiator getting warm all over and not just on the outside tubes ,then clog up in the centre where the fan is first so if its warm on the outside and cold in the middle where the fan is then this is your problem ,Now assuming this is ok and checks out then the main cause of failure for overheating is the water pump ,it may not leak but what happens is a plastic impeller on a metal shaft and the plastic impeller comes loose on the shaft so the shaft turns but the impeller doesnt or very slowly causing the engine to overheat ,also try bleeding off the top heater hose at highest point but i doubt if this is your problem as most cases i get are where the impeller comes loose
Okay this is on total memory. The shift shaft for a lot of those engines goes right up through the pilot shaft and exits just in front of the block under the carburetor(s). You will see the **** linkage arm connected to this shaft sometimes it's double nutted. See if you can slide the lower unit back up to the housing and put a bolt in it to hold then undue the shift shaft linkage, Remove the bolt and drop the lower unit. Be careful of the water tubes and check make sure the rubber grommets are in place in the pump housing not on the tubes. Clean up the pump housing and install the new impeller kit. Put the impeller down the shaft on top of the impeller plate, lightly grease the inside of the housing the impeller plate and impeller. Then lower the pump housing down to the impeller while turning the drive shaft clockwise lightly push down on the impeller housing. This will fold the impeller blades all in the correct position and provide lubrication to the pump until the water gets into the pump. To make life easier re-grease the drive shaft spline and the water tube grommets this will ad ease in reinstalling the lower unit. be careful to make sure you thread the drive shaft, water tubes and shift shaft all in at the same time. After installation you may find you need to adjust the **** linkage.
Sometimes a water pump will fail
internally due to severe corrosion wearing away the impeller blades, or
the impeller comes loose on the shaft, or the shaft itself may break
from metal fatigue (caused by flexing due to an out-of-balance fan).
Many late model vehicles (Chrysler in
particular) have plastic impellers to improve cooling efficiency and to
reduce cavitation (drag). But the plastic can wear down quickly if the
coolant is dirty and contains abrasives. The pump may not leak, but it
may not circulate enough coolant through the engine to keep the engine
at normal operating temperature.
One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator
hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because teh hose willb
e HOT! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose
when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a
bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the
thermostat), or a clogged radiator.
The power steering pump is piggie backed to the vacuum pump. The seal in the back of the vacuum pump has engin oil under presure behind it cousing a leak that gets worse over time. Cummins make a seal kit to fix this leak.
First you remove the four 8mm bolt that attach the water pump cover to the side cover, the lowest bolt will drain the coolant. next you remove the coolant pipe with one 8mm bolt. The water pump cover like any part that has been in place for years may need some force to remove and that is why you will find two tabs around the outside of the pump cover for prying it off.
Once you have the cover off the impeller unscrews by way of a built in 10mm nut. This nut is right hand threaded and is removable by rotating it counter clockwise with preferably a 6 point socket as a 12 point socket may round the nut sides since the impeller and built in nut are made of aluminum.
To replace the twin seals (one for water/coolant and one for oil) you must remove the engine side cover from the motor and pull the impeller shaft out from the engine side of the cover. After the shaft has been removed the bearing is pulled out with a bearing puller or sometimes it can be removed by pushing it out from the outside in with a makeshift driver but the bearing can be damaged by this method and it is not recommended. The old seals can now be pulled out or pushed out from the opposite side.
To replace the new seals you must drive them in perpendicular to the impeller shaft with the manufacture markings to the inside. The water seal is installed from the outside and the oils seal from the inside.
There is a tool used for installing the seals called a seal driver but you could make one in a pinch. The seal driver makes contact with the outside diameter of the seal where it is solid and has a metal core. The inside diameter is soft and flexible and should not be used to push the seal in place however it can be used to keep the seal driver centered over the outer diameter and to keep the seal moving in a strait line perpendicular to the impeller shaft.
Once the new seals are in place they should be greased with some lithium soap based grease.
Install the bearing and reassemble the impeller shaft then you are ready to reassemble the engine side cover and water pump housing but make sure you spin the water pump impeller slowly as you install the engine side cover as the impeller shaft is driven off the engine shaft behind it and the shaft needs to be aligned in order for it to fall in place (do not try to force the cover on).