Dryer Blows but does not heat. Thermal Limiter=0 Ohms, High Limit Thermostat = 0 ohms, Control Thermister=high resisitance and is not 0 ohms. I'm not sure if the Control Thermister is possible defective and if it is supposed to also be at zero ohms. I unfortuantly have not gotten to the heater element yet.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Get the schematic and look at the timer. there are two wires that you can jump across and verify that the timer is bad by bypassing it all together. If all your checks tested good then the timer is bad. If you have any doubt order the part from repairclinic.com because you get a full refund even if you put it in and it does not work
in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac
there is thermal fuse, Hi limit, and thermistor. the thermistor should have continuity at room temp I don't know what resistence(ohms) it should have. Most units I have seen provide a schematic and trouble shooting guide taped under the control panel for service personal.
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with
Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
Any time a thermal cut off blows, it's because the cycling thermostat is bad. When it's bad, the machine cycles off of the thermal cut off rather than the cycling thermostat allowing the dryer to over heat. The thermal cut off is a re-setting safety and is not made to cycle off of. The thermostat you are looking for looks like a high limit thermostat but it cuts power to the element at a lower temp. Around 158 degrees + or - 25 degrees. It's located close to the high limit. It's a normally closed switch that opens on the rise and it will show closed now but the problem with it is that will not open. Replace it and your problem will be solved. Good luck.
The 'operating' thermostat and the high temp limit thermostat could be bad. There is also a contact on the motor in the element circuit. The two therm. mentioned should read '0' ohms with a meter. (with machine unplugged.)
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.