An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: LG WM1832CW water leaking
Your valve is not closing or your cycle isn't reading correctly. there should have been a diagnostic read process that should have came with the machine. if not you may have to end up buying a new drian assembly
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Check that the door seal hasn't got a split or hole in it. Check between the bowl and the front panel. The water must be coming from somewhere. could be a hole in the outer drum itself or it could be the detergent drawer overflowing.... As a last resort... Carefully take off the top by unscrewing the screws at the rear, bump the top panel back to unclip it and VERY carefully look while the machine fills. DO NOT TOUCH as there is bare wiring...Remember water and electricity make a shocking combination!!! ....Nomess
It is normal for the machine to cycle between hot and cold water when
filling even if selecting a cold cycle. The reason for this is because
even a cold cycle requires the water temperature to be 78F for the soap
to break up efficiently.
During the cold months the water in
your pipes is probably less than 78F so the machine will need to add
some hot water to bring it up to this temperature. Basically, it is
adding cold and then hot water to maintain a temperature in the tub of
78F for cold water cycles.
I would guess that the impeller has come off the pump motor shaft. You can disassemble and push it back on, but it will come off again. I don't know if some type of adhesive would work, but I just replace the pump motor. Drain water from small drain hose (or by removing filter) Remove the screw in the plastic recess by the filter, then use a putty knife on the left or right side to pop out the recess. Remove two more screws holding pump body to front frame of washer. Pull washer about 18 inches away from wall and tilt it back to lean against wall to allow access to the pump through the large rectangular hole in the base of the washer. There is a plastic locking tab holding the pump body to the plastic washer base, but don't worry if you break that, as the screws (removed earlier) will hold the pump back on just fine. Pump motor is held onto pump body with three more screws. Replace pump motor with a new one and reassemble. On a difficulty scale of 1 -10, this one might rate a 4.5 or a 5. Not too bad.
Leaking is rarely, if ever, caused by the drain pump. Small leaks can come from using too much soap, which backs up in the dispenser area and leaks down inside the machine, or larger leaks from a cut in the door gasket.
FE means water is overflowing. Check pump filter. Check water level switch and hose. Also check that drain hose isn't too low causing it to refill itself continuously. In any case the drain pump should run for 4 minutes to try and eliminate the extra fill