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Looks like you may have a bad ignitor. Try adjusting the arc gap. Sometimes of the ignitor is too close to the burner, the ignitor will not spark. It may also be that te burner is dirty and needs a little cleaning to allow for the electric ignitor spark to arc accross, thus producing ignition. Good luck.
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
gud day,try to clean the bottom of knob control by removing of knob then clean if by using a vacciumm,if u want to use manually ur cooktop unplug the unit to stop the cliking,then use macthes every time to on the gas cooktop.
You must close the gas valve orifice. There is a gas valve (silver or grey colored rectangular shaped piece which feeds the burner(s)) that has a brass or gold-colored hex nut. This nut (1/2 inch) needs to be tighten down clockwise to the stop point. This will regulate the flame.
hi im gerbee my suggestion is replace the pcv control wat brand u have,always also in philipines the electric hob is so very sensitive,the pcv cotrol is not repairable.or next time u by a new one gas cooktop more ok compare to electric ceramic hob, or use electric ceramic hob w/knob control compare to sensor type,i think the part of the sensor or pcv control is so very expensive,that why i buy an another one.dont try to repair more difficult to com.tnx
Tha sounds to me like the air mixture nedds to be adjusted on the stove, It's not difficult to do, just rotate it until the flames loose the yellow or your pans will be stained with soot.
The should be by the fittings (convertion fittings), you know?
LP Gas to Natural Gas or Natural Gas to LP Gas.
Hope this help
Tupper Lake NY
I'm not sure what you mean by a proper efficient flame. I just recently went through an experience I'll relate to you here. I purchased a GE Profile dual fuel range. I can get more specific if you'd like but here's the point. The highest burner on the range was rated at 17000 BTU's. A friend recommended the range to me and sang it's praises. I took delivery of my new toy and couldn't wait to get a pot on the stove to start cooking a long wait for pasta. Twenty minutes later I was finally seeing bubbles! I spilled the water out and measured 12 cups of water into the pasta pot at room temperature. That's three quarts of water. 20 minutes to see bubbles and never would it come to the expected "rolling boil". My experience has always been with electric ranges and I am new to gas but 20 minutes? Something had to be wrong, right? Wrong! Much research later I've found it is common for natural gas to LP conversion stoves to lose a good deal of their oumph when converted. GE as it turns out is one of the most notorious for a serious degredation in BTU output. After exploring GE's site I found that this same stove running under LP gas is rated(for the highest burner) at 11000 BTU's! No wonder I couldn't boil water! Back to the store it went and I am still in search of a stove that will meet my needs. Don't know if this will help you or if this is the same issue you are dealing with but maybe just maybe. Good luck!