Question about Haier HRF10WNB Top Freezer Refrigerator

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Freezer seems to stay in auto defrost too long.

2 year old top freezer GE model GTH22SBSARSS. Freezer will warm up, melting everything inside. After awhile it will return to 0 degrees. It keeps doing this. I'm not sure about the timing because it's in my rental house and I'm not there to monitor it. There is a slight rattling sound at times. I changed the defrost thermostat and it didn't fix the problem. I just ordered a temperture sensor and defroster heater assembly. I don't think this model has a timer. I'ld like a little better understanding of whats going on. The last time this happened the refrigerator warmed up also, although previously the fridge seemed alright, (or maybe my tenants didn't notice, I don't know). Thanks for any help you can give me.

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SOURCE: continuing fridge problems

Your freezer is probably not sealing prolly. make sure the door is perfectly lined with the box. You might want to change the defrost timer from the 10hr you have to a 6 hr timer. In high humidity areas too much frost tends to accumulate causing the vents, and the drain line to be clogged. That might be why you have the puddle of water. The ice that is defrosted every 10 hrs runs down that drain line to a pan on top of the compressor, if that line freezes up, all subsequent water from defrost ends up in the refrigerator or freezes in the freezer.

Posted on Mar 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Cold Freezer Hot refrigerator

I'm having the same problem with a Haier Model HTE18WAAWW.

Water is dripping into refrigerator section from the freezer section. Eventually, refrigerator section was not cooling adequately. Freezer was freezing, but there was eventually ice crystals inside similar to hoarfrost. (See Google images for hoarfrost if you're not sure what hoarfrost is.)

I turned off and unplugged unit for several hours while I removed the floor pan and internal back panel in the freezer. There was ice built up in the evaporator drain pan that was blocking the air flow of cold air from the evaporator into the refrigerator. I melted the ice with a hair drier plugged into a GFI outlet for safety.

I dried everything off. I could not find evidence of water going down the condensate drain tube below the evaporator to the condensate drain sitting on top of the compressor. I tried running a coat hanger down the drain line to no avail. I poured hot water down the condensate drain line to no avail. I put everything back together. Works fine as far as cooling and freezing, but water is still dripping into the refrigerator.

I think the defrosters are okay unless the heater strip below the evaporator is burned out. I base this on the fact that there is no condensate around the door gaskets even though the temperature in the house is hot and humid. I may have to Ohm that heater out. I'm thinking the drain line is clogged for the condensate drain. It may need longer defrosting.

If longer defrosting don't work, I'm thinking I need to rethink how to clean out the condensate drain line. Maybe low pressure compressed air???

Posted on Aug 16, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: GE refrigerator 12 years old runs continuously, exterior warm

Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer Noise. Water leaking in Fridge.

you need a repair man.you have a defrost problem and your drain is clogged.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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GE 17.2 freezer on top fridge on bottom. Freezer is cold, but fridge is warm. Help!


Is there any frost buildup on the rear panel inside the freezer? If so you have a defrost problem of a bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer/ control board. If no frost then you probably have a clogged defrost drain. Remove the rear panel to access drain hole.

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This could be a double problem.
Yes the auto defrost cycle seems to have failed allowing an ice build up.
Secondly the door seal is leaking allowing warm moist air to sneak in. You probably need a door gasket too.

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php




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