Question about Ariens 34 In. Zoom Series Riding Mower
I have an OLD snowblower that I need to replace the bearing support on and I would like to get some knowledge in order to do it right the first time.I am looking at the right side of the machine (standing at the operators position), it is a triangular shaped ''pot metal''/aluminum piece that bolts to the outside of the case and over the axle. I looked at it (it is cracked with a piece missing out of it) and I mentally can picture taking the tire off,but I think that I would need to pull the hub off but am unsure if the axle can or would pul off to get the support off. Also I do not know what the model number is. I got it VERY used and therefore some of the stickers are gone,how can I determine what model numer it is ? It is a very old machine ( I was told poss. early 60's?) orange body,white Techumseh engine, 4 forward speed one reverse speed,two stage, two levers on the side(one to engage the wheels and one to engage the tines), one lever on the handle(clutch). Thank you in advance for taking the time to possibly help me out..Dave
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The little metal peice with the wire ataches to the float at the hinge part of the float, if you use yahoo type in tecumseh carburetor diagram then click on Parts and Diagrams and the web address is partstree.com it will show you a breakdown of a carb and how it goes together. It may not bee your exact carb but they are all pretty much the same. It also sounds like you may need to rebuild your carb. If you get it back together and it still leaks, I suggest you take it to a small engine repair shop and have them rebuild it for you only cause you need a special tool for the seat and the float will have to be set.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
you need to get the model number from the mower body and verify that it is correct the age should not matter some hardware stores work primarily on ariens mowers hope this helps
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
SOURCE: PTO does not engage
if your belt was tight when you finished installing it and all the pulleys that it went around are free turning by hand and lining up reasonably well you should be ok.
to the clutch
are you good with a volt meter 12volts dc?
Find your connector close to the clutch
unhook it from the clutch
take your volt meter and engage your red knob (Have the key on and parking brake applied)check your voltage to the connector
Do you have 12volts dc?if so your clutch should work if not you need to trace the wire back to the red knob
check all of your fuses check all of your safety switches.
Or have a 12 volt source (a battery )and hook it briefly to the connector you found directly to the clutch connector pos. and neg. from your battery you should hear an audible CLICK if so your clutch is good if not you are losing 12 volts back toward the red knob
this is the best way to check the clutch while it is still on the machine.
if its the bad clutch get your wallet out they are expensive.
to remove it unlosen center bolt on the crankshaft
remove or move belt guards out of the way and whole assembly should slide right off, note any shims and spacers that may come down with it and their locations
put back the same way it came off and tighten center bolt to 55 ft.lbs.
Posted on May 26, 2009
if both belts are present are they both moving? Could be tensioner froze up and it is not applying tension. mine had and i had to remove and free it up.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
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