Question about Noritz 6.3 Gallon Residential Tankless Water Heater - N-063S

2 Answers

Blinking red light,

N-o63S, 5 yrs old.- blinks 3 times,pauses, then repeats
Very little water(and cold) coming out of hot faucet. Seems to make a loud noise every so often when I use it as well....
I opened-then closed the water valve...still blinked. Then I turned off the power and turned it back on. Doesn't seem to blink anymore (that was this morning...)
What does '3 blinks' mean? Any precautions to take. How di I dind out if my warranty is still good? I seemed to only has the manual, no warranty info on file. Thanks.


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  • ramoruso Jan 16, 2009

    I have the same problem no hot water LED blinks 3 times, burner doesn't seem to fire up

  • reandcheryl Jan 18, 2009

    Me three...Same problem. My wife took a shower and all was fine. My doughter tried to take one and only cold water. Trouble light blinking a code three. Must be a secret because I can find no definition of codes either in the manuals or online.

  • Anonymous Jan 24, 2009

    Same problem here...only, I can't tell on the error code. Wonder if the PCB got zapped with some noise on the electrical line coming in.

  • talker3245 Jan 28, 2009

    Me Five I have A Nortiz Model # N-063S I've had mine for about 5 years also trouble light blinks 3 time pauses then repeats it had been running purfect till just now, I fix it by unpluging it and waiting for about 30 seconds, works fine for about a month but this problem is now coming back more often like once a week now? Can somebody help with a permenant fix? My whole house water pressure is fine about 65 psi. But when this happens all the hot water through out the house has low pressure and cold due to my units burner not coming on till I reset it by unplugging it for 30 seconds. help!

  • kasolar Mar 26, 2009

    Same problem repeated about every month. To reset - repower the unit.



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Do not have the brand name of the tankless heater nor do I remember how old it is (at least three yrs). No hot water has happened before, but I didn't notice a blinking red light. This time (with guests in the house), no hot water and, low pressure. Was about to try the above solutions when the hot water returned.
I'm going to find out more about this problem tomorrow. My guests will be here for A WEEK!
Thanks for the help.
Florida

Posted on May 17, 2012

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It seams alot of people have this same problem All must get ahold of manufacturer and report this it must be there pump's thank you for useing fixya

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • albert getty
    albert getty Feb 17, 2009

    or water hooked up backwards

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1 Answer

Water pressure


Here is what should be going on.
There is a length of pipe between the hot water that is in your tank and the nozzle you are expecting to get it out of.
It is really possible the are nearly 3 gallons of water in those pipes, especially if the water heater is many feet from the faucet.
Now about the drop in water pressure.
Try the cold water.
Does it do the same as the hot? Does the pressure drop after 2 - 5 minutes?
If so, suspect your pipes are clogged with sediment. How old are the pipes and the house/apartment?
Does the water contain minerals that clog pipes?
If the cold water is good, and the hot not, I should suspect there is blockage in the hot water pipes, especially going in to or coming out of the water heater., or perhaps the faucet is clogged with rust or deposits.
God bless your efforts.

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Hard water deposits from the water heater in the supply lines to the faucets. Sounds like your water heater needs to be cleaned out -- not just drained of water. You need to get inside and clear out the deposits in the bottom of the tank. You also need to remove the hot water supply lines to your faucets and see of you can get the lines to run free from the deposits -AFTER you clean out the water heater. Remove the drain -put on a 3/4 in. ball valve for the drain and a hose bibb on that - you can hook up a 5/8 - or 3/4 inch hose to get the particles out of the drain of the water tank. You may have to blow back the water line, from the faucets, the hot water lines- to get the deposits out of the water lines. You also may have to blow out the faucets with the water line disconnected to clear the calcium out of the hot side of the faucet.

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http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
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2) Unknown if tank has hot water > that is first thing to check.

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My reliance natural gas water heater overheats causing scalding water to come out of my faucets. I have had authorized service companies come out three times to replace and retrofit different controls and...


Information below is for tank-type electric or gas heater only.

There is a condition called stacking.
This might apply to your water heater or not.
Having authorized service people to your house 3 times suggests more complicated mix of problems.

Stacking is caused when there are repeated short draws of hot water.
As you know, each time any hot water is drawn out of faucet, cold water immediately enters bottom of tank through the dip tube. The dip tube is connected to cold water inlet and runs to bottom of tank.
So all cold water enters bottom of tank close to the gas water heater thermostat.
See illustration of dip tube, that also shows copper thermostat sticking into tank that is connected to gas valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flushelectric

Let's say your water heater if fully heated and burner is off.
A short draw of hot water causes cold water to enter tank.
Another short draw. And then another short draw, each draw happens close to same time as other draws.
Water at top of tank is plenty hot, but bursts of cold water get near thermostat and cause thermostat to turn on burner.
Burner heats water and more hot water rises to top of tank. Water at top of tank becomes overheated each time stacking occurs.

Again, a stacking situation may not be the cause of your problem.
However, remember if single-handled faucet is opened straight upward, then that draws both hot and cold water. And cold water immediately enters tank.
Only when the single-handled faucet is lifted with the handle all the way to the right, does it draw only cold water. Even so, some single-handled faucets have bleed-over between hot and cold sides, so hot water is drawn anyway.

Another possibility is that the dip tube ends at or near thermostat, instead of going all the way to bottom of tank. The dip tube should go straight down from cold water inlet, but dip tubes are made of plastic, and some self-cleaning tanks have a curved dip tube or dip tube with perforations that create currents designed to stir sediments off bottom of tank (although this is not proven to be effective deterrent to sediment formation).

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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almost all tankless water heaters have this problem. I would install a small "buffer" tank. for example a small 5 or 10 gallon electric water heater will "mix" the water so that it doesn't come out of your shower cold, or scalding hot.
the instructions that came with your water heater should have a diagram of how to do this. if not let me know, I can send a copy.
the electric water heater acts as a mixing station.
the problem with most tankless heaters is that the water coming in is cold, average 60* and the water coming out is average 120*. sometimes the flame in the unit can't keep up when using large amounts of water, and you will get cold spots. when this happens, the heater will sense this, and then tells the flame it needs more BTU's, so then you will get extremely hot water.
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