I purchased a new "crank door recess. It doesn't work. the arm (left side upper part has a reversed "cycle shape" which presses against the molded housing, not allowing door to ice, not to close all the way. The spring on opposite side of the "cycle" is ok. Also the silinoid is new. And does the arm (actuator) on the crank door recess sit on top of this arm or go through the arm itself?
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When I serviced these units I had to take the freezer door off to access the ice maker. There are two screws in the front of the icemaker and 2 tong and groves which hold the icemaker to the freezer celling. These tong and grooves in the back on the ice maker right and left corners.
Once the ice maker is free, you will need a small flat head screw driver to wedge into the icemaker connector to disconnect the wiring.
If you are 100% sure your problem is the ice maker assembly, you may want to consider purchasing the new assembly before starting this task. This way you can inspect the top to the icemaker for mounting.
The two screws are either hex or Phillips heads. If it is a hex head you need to make sure the 1/4" hex head can fit into the recess where the screws are located. Some 1/4" hex head drivers are too large in outside diameter.
Before you condemned the ice maker have you considered:
1.) There is a square red reset in the front center bottom.
2.) I assume since you have defrosted the freezer there is not a ice cube jamming the ice maker.
3.) And since you defrosted the freezer you do not have a frozen fill tube.
Last thing; press the red reset button. If the ice maker cycles but does not fill, then you have a water supply problem. This could be a kink in the water line, water shut off valve could be bad restricting 50-60 PSI required pressure, or a bad water solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for continunity with your Ohm meter.
Swing arm alignment can be restored by resetting the ice maker. There is a reset on the bottom, near the front of the ice maker. HOLD it down through a complete cycle, about 8 seconds, then wait for the two-tone chime to indicate the reset is complete. Failing that, a new ice maker may be needed, the old one may need thawing or there is debris under the bin or arm stopping the cycle. I have actually tore this thing off by opening the freezer at the the exact moment it was cycling too, arrrrgh.
check and see if there is a built in filter pack inside the back of the fridge or it could possibly be that one of the lines has froze internally and or the open close valve at the water inlet inside has worn out
if you can hear the fan still blowing but no cold air coming up to fridge section a common problem with bottom mount freezers is the door gets left open and the air ducts freeze up and the air can't blow up to the top.turn the control off in the freezer.remove the top shelf and the door,check to see if there are any screws one on each side of the slide arms,if there are remove them and lift the door up and out,with a hair dryer melt out the ice by blowing the hot air up each side of the back wall,also if the back inside wall of the freezer is covered with ice or like snow then you have a defrost problem but if there's no ice on back wall do what i said and blow the air up the sides of the back wall through the vents until no more water is seen dripping through the vent holes,then turn the freezer back on and check to see if you feel cold air blowing in through the vents in the fridge section,if you feel cold air then you're all set,if not keep blowing the hot air up the sides until it's melted out.let me know what you find,you'll know if the door was left open,ice will be on the ceiling near the light switch and sometimes on the top of the freezer door. However if fan has quit totally then it will have to be replaced since it is responsible for cooling the upper part of the fridge
Unfortunately, Ice Makers are notoriously unreliable and most require more expertise than a handyman possesses. Most require replacement of one of the 4 main parts (usually not generic): drive motor, water solenoid, heating release element or bin full ice arm control switch.
A Certified Technician should be able to diagnose the problem and suggest a repair or replacement.
I found a high density foam and a plastic retainer under the freezer drawer, inspected ice maker and found a wire with a rectangular senser hanging down. Removed freezer drawer and door to gain access to icemaker. Reinstalled foam piece and plastic retainer to lower front of icemaker (there are recess and a small retainiing tab) Reassembled freezer door and drawer, system working normally
If this is a GE the water supply in the freezer door is frozen. Quick easy way to check is disconnect at the bottom of the freezer door and close door and activate the water switch and see if water getting to that point. If it is turn off ref and use a hair dryer on the upper section around thr recessed area and defrost the ice line. Will take a while so be patient.
The icemaker stops working because excessive water gets into the control box(where circuit board is housed) through the shaft hole of "finger" and freezes the wheels to turn the "ice-bucket-full detector rod". This stops to send the signal to open water valve.
To fix, remove the icemaker from the wall (need remove two screws - make sure power switch is OFF) and carefully separate the snap-on cable (retangular shape) and a ground cable on the bottom side of the icemaker. (Now you can remove the icemaker out of the refrigerator).
You can open the contol box (need unscrew one and carefully prop it open using a screw driver or a knife. You can unplug color corded snap-on cables for easiness to work (very simple).
You will see ice formed around the plastic gear wheel controlling the "ice-bucket-full detector rod". Remove all ice and dry all the parts in the box and put them back. Make sure all the cable are back to the matching color receptable(only fits in the right place). Connect the cable(rectangular shape) and connect the ground cable. Mount the incemaker on the wall using two screws you removed at first.
Turn the power ON and reset the system by press down the ice cube size selector until the "fingers" make a full cycle. You will see the metal rod moves up and down as system resets. During this cycle the water will be filled into the icemaker.
I believe this icemaker has a design flaw but it's very simple to correct the problem you are experiencing. You do not need much electronic or mechanical knowlege to fix this.