Question about Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer

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Maytag LSE7804 stackable w/d blows fuse

My Maytag washing machine blows the fuse. I opened machine up! Inlet valve solenoids read about 750 ohms resistance across each coil.
What is the most like culprit?

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  • jschee Jan 14, 2009

    If the lid switch is defective is the problem most likely open? If so open won't cause fuse to blow. The inlet valve solenoids both test the same - but the second I pull the switch to on position it blows the 5A fuse.

  • jschee Jan 14, 2009

    Washer will not fill - nada nothing happens. both fill solenoids test about 800 ohms resistance. First solution suggestion lid switch. Question is will lid switch cause blown fuse??? If open it won't fill but wouldn't cause blown fuse!

  • jschee Jan 15, 2009

    Still soliciting advice. The only way I see that inlet valves are causing problem is if they are mechanically stuck and that causes electrical overload. However, what do I know?? Anyone else wants to weigh in on this - I welcome the advice!!

  • jschee Jan 15, 2009

    I still need some advice on the blowing fuse problem. The circuit only has inlet solenoids, lid switch,level switch & water temp sw and a couple of timer contacts. I replaced inlet valve even though I didn't really think it was the problem. IT wasn't! One of you said the problem was in lid switch! What do the rest of you think?? That doesn't seem to me to be something that would blow fuses!! But what do I know???

  • jschee Jan 15, 2009

    In answer to your query, it is a 5 amp AGC internal fuse in the washing machine. Only a few other things in the path = fill valve solenoids, timer contacts, lid sw, check sw, temp sw, & level sw. I replaced fill valve - still blows fuses.

  • jschee Jan 15, 2009



    After reading latest questions from you, I need to clarify. Problem is washer does nothing- won't fill. As soon as I pull the switch out to start wash cycle the 5 Amp AGC internal fuse blows.

  • jschee Jan 16, 2009

    I have checked lid switch and check switch with ohm meter. Both check good. I get continuity through temp sel sw, load sel sw & pressure switch when I am supposed to. I don't measure any shorts. WHAT GIVES????

  • jschee Jan 19, 2009

    Problem is fixed, albeit maybe temporarily. while ohming out path of inlet valves through lid switch, check switch, temp sel switch and level switch, problem disappeared and it's working fine now. Only thing I can think of is a chafed wire! Oh well! Thank you folks, Jim

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Let us know if you fixed , if not , test and eventually replace wiring harness, that is the last thing remaining.

You find parts and diagrams by entering model number here.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, almost always, there is a tech sheet with electrical wiring diagram at the bottom/kick panel. Possibilities are:

  • detached connector touching the body (most likely) or burned wires/connectors in the terminal block;
  • crimped, bared, stripped wired touching the body (likely)
  • shorted diode(s) in the control board (least likely).
Check and perform preliminary visual or necessary inspection. Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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The only component which can consume more than 5A to blow fuse could be the defetive motor in it. Else, it has to be a short circuit. You need to trace the circuit from the fuse to find the culprit.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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You have a short. Look for any wires that have been rubbing against any metal components. The most vulnerable place would probably be where the power cord enters the machine. If all the wire look good check the outlet providing the power.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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Hi!
What was the voltage at the out let? To test go from line to the ground the round hole in the outlet see what the voltage is then go from netural to ground see what it is do you know how to do a voltage drop test using a multimeter if you have one

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jan 14, 2009

    the machine is pulling to much power.check to see if it is on a 15 or 20 amp outlet. you said you replaced the fuse. the amp size should be on it. if it is a 15 amp fuse,plug the machine into a 20 amp circuit and see if the fuse blows then.

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jan 14, 2009

    Or you have plugged something else into a receptacle that it is sharing with on the same circuit such as a ac, freezer, refridgerator etc, and when it's motor kicks in it overloads it and throws the breaker..or as mentioned above, the washer is pulling more amps than what your fuse/breaker allows.

    And if all this doesn't help then there must be a fault in part of the cycle when it starts to spin(or when it starts to heat) something causes your motor coils to short that blows your switch.



    Ask for any clarifications.

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Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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No power Check to see whether power is getting to the washing machine. Is it plugged in? Has a fuse blown or is a circuit breaker tripped?

Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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