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New washer, Maytag title, but RCA unit--knocks and clanks

New, Nov. 2007, loud knocking noise during agitation, louder metal to metal clanking noise when changing from agitate to spin. Reported, service order # 94895278 Jan., 2008. Technician stated normal sounds because of direct drive. It's getting louder and louder, it's hard for me to imagine that something that hammers this loud is not causing significant wear and tear on critical parts. I have never heard any washer making this loud knocking noise before. I must shut utility door to hear conversation in home.

I bought a maytag, then found out from technician that it is RCA unit. I was not happy with this switch, but went along with diagnosis until washer getting louder and louder.

Please consider this transmittal a formal complaint.

Jim Stone
610 mountain ash ave.
Eucha, Okla.

918/435/2899
918/837/0233
jrstone@brightok.net

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Thank you for your complaint. It will be forwarded.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Kenmore Elite HE4T Washing Machine Diagnostic Test Didn't complete and clothes aren't spun as dry as in the past I have a Kenmore Elite HE4T washing machine and I noticed that recently it isn't getting all of the clothes completely dry from the final spin cycle. Thus, the dryer has to run through two cycles to get the clothes dry. I did a bunch of research and made sure there weren't any kinks or blockages in the drain lines; and opened up the bottom of the washer and cleaned out the drain cleanout. I found a few pennies, but everything seemed to be working ok. I ran a load and had the bottom open so that I could make sure the motor, drain and belt were all working properly. The drain does get the water out of the washer, so the clothes aren't sitting in water, they just don't seem to be spun as fast or as long as they used to. I always put it on the "extra high" spin setting no matter which type of load I run. So, I found a way to run the diagnostic test on the washer and it went through C0-C5 (the agitation step) and all worked great, until it wouldn't come out of C5 after at least 10 minutes and go thru C6-C8. I had to cancel the diagnostic test and hit the "drain and spin" button to get all of the water back out of the washer. BTW, the "drain and spin" seems to get the clothes a bit drier than when I have it run through the "normal" cycle with the "extra high" spin. If anyone has any other thoughts, I would really appreciate it. This unit is in a small space with the dryer attached so to take it out and do repairs is a pretty big hassle. It has had a new control board and two new fill valves in the 10+ years that I have owned it. Questions I have: 1.should I remove the entire drain pump to make sure there isn't anything lodged in it? 2. could it be the belt slipping slightly and keeping the spin from reaching its 1200 RPMs? 3. Anything else I may be missing???

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