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Unplug the power cord of the
Whirlpool dryer from the electrical outlet before installing a new belt.
Remove the lint filter from underneath the lint filter cover. 2 Unfasten the screws underneath
the lint filter cover with a screwdriver, setting the screws in a safe
place. Slide a putty knife between the dryer top and the cabinet near
the front, lifting up on the knife to detach the top from the plastic
clips on the cabinet.3 Flip the dryer top back against
the wall so it is resting on the rear hinges. Locate the screws on the
inside of the upper front panel near the top.4 Unfasten the screws on the
inside of the upper front panel with a screwdriver. Lift the panel up
off the metal clips on the front of the dryer cabinet. 5 Unplug the door switch connector
from the back of the upper front panel by hand, setting the panel out
of the way. Slide the putty knife between the lower front panel and the
dryer cabinet, pulling the knife away from the cabinet to detach the
panel from the plastic clips on the cabinet.6 Place a couple of wood blocks
under the lip of the dryer drum to hold it in place. Locate the idler
arm near the motor at the base of the dryer.7 Move the idler arm forward to
relieve the tension on the belt. Take the belt off the motor and idler
arm pulleys, lifting the drum up and sliding the belt off the drum.8 Install a new belt around the
dryer drum, looping it over the idler arm and around the motor pulley.
Move the idler arm back into position to add tension to the new belt.9 Remove the wood blocks from
underneath the lip of the dryer drum. Plug the door switch connector
into the back of the upper front panel by hand.10 Slide the upper front panel over
the metal clips on the front of the dryer cabinet, securing the top of
the panel with screws. Fasten the lower front panel to the front of the
dryer cabinet, pressing the panel onto the plastic clips by hand.11 Flip the dryer top back down
onto the top of the cabinet, pressing down to secure the top to the
plastic clips on the cabinet. Fasten the screws underneath the lint
filter cover with a screwdriver.12 Slide the lint filter back under
the lint filter cover by hand. Plug the power cord of the Whirlpool
dryer into the electrical outlet.
Make sure unit is getting 220 from home with a voltage meter. If that is correct, unplug dryer. If lint door is on top then the next few steps are quite easy. If you lint screen is in dryer door then you will need to find a diagram of you dryer. You can do this online at Ny of the appliance repair parts websites. If your lint screen is on top, unplug the dryer and take the back panel off. There is a "one time--non-resettable" thermal fuse near the blower (usually bottom left side). Your volt meter should show this as closed by checking continuity. If not, this may be 1 of your problems. Change it out--always clean all lint out of the unit anytime you have it open. On the right is a long metal tube/shaft area. At the top is another thermal limit fuse(non-resettable) which nerds to be tested for continuity. It should also be closed. Next check the hi-limit thermostat near the bottom of this cylinder. I take them off, hold the metal flange with needle nose pliers and hold lighter under it--be careful not to touch it with flame. Initally, you should be able to test this item as closed on your meter. Using the light will confirm that it will open correctly upon it's heat limit. You should always chevy ALL of these things ANY time you open the dryer. It is a good idea to also check the heater coil. This is usually in the bottomof that metal tube and has 2 screws holding it. Be very careful with this when removing and replacing. The oils from your hands can crate a potential weak spot which will fail sooner than it should. Check this for continuity as well. Replace what you found bad and close it back up. Turn the breaker off to the unit before pluging back in. If you wired something back incorrectly, this will save you a possible electrical burn. Plug the unit in and flip the breaker. Turn it on and you should have heat.
To remove the top, you will need a medium size flat screw driver and a
flashlight. Some of this procedure is a lot easier with a 2nd person, so
someone else with you to help, if possible. First unplug the dryer and
turn off the gas valve behind the dryer. You are going to want to use
the screw driver to push 2 metal tabs to release the top panel from the
front panel. Apply some lifting pressure to the top panel while looking
into the gap (with the flashlight) between the top and front panel. Look
for 2 metal tabs, which are usually painted black. When you find them,
push them (one-at-a-time) forward horizontally with the screw driver
until you hear it pop and release. Once you get both metal tabs
released, you can lift the top panel. NOTE: This is where you need a 2nd
person to help. Before you lift the top panel, have someone else hold
the front panel. The drum rests on the front panel and will fall down
without it's support. You will also need to disconnect a few wires to
remove the front panel. Take note where they hook-up for reassembly.
Grab hold of the drum and have the 2nd person pull up on the front panel
to remove it from the grooves at the bottom. Find something or someone
to hold up the drum, so you can work hands free on the dryer conversion.
If you need more assistance to do the conversion, just let us know!~Good
unplu the dryer, take the vent off the vent tube, take out the metal tubes holding the back cover and tae off,inside you will see an oval shaped tube with two wires coming out,there is a bracket with one metal screw holding it,take ot,loosen the two wires,take out the tube ,another metal screw holds in the heat element,take out the element check the coil it may be burned out if so replce i do hope this has helped you then reverse the procedure , thank you.
The gasket between the drum and the back panel may be worn or missing. I had a similar problem with a 34 year old dryer when the felt gasket wore out and allowed metal-to-metal contact between the drum and the back panel. The clothes would get pinched between them and make a black "kiss" mark.
Sounds like you have a 10-2 NM wire. One black, one white, one bare copper. At panel box, black to one hot terminal of breaker or fuse holder (L1). White to other breaker terminal or other fuse holder (L2). Bare copper to the grounded neutral buss bar.
At the dryer the bare neutral goes to the center terminal, the other two go one each on either side, it won't matter which way. Hot Neutral Hot. The neutral terminal of the dryer should have a wire or metal strap connecting it to the dryer frame if you are not using a four wire supply.
unplug it drop the panel between easher dryer remove the metal panel behind it remove 2 screws each side controls panel reomve control panel unplug the switch going to dryer door let panel hang down remove 2 screws bottom door panel one each side remove 4 screws on the top front panel with door will fall in your hands oyt seals on it let dry
Your dryer was made by Frigidaire and needs what is called a rear bearing kit (#5303281153 costs about $30) from frigidaire.
there is also a good chance that your bearing failed because the dryer overheated (overheating is mostly caused by the venting being restricted)