If i fill the machine manually with water it works well until the water is pumped out, it then refuses to re-fill with water, if i then fill machine manually it works through untill the wash ends and displays the end light on display panel
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The reason only the pump runs anytime its powered up is because the flood detector has detected water in the base of the dishwasher and until that water is gone only the pump will run.That flood detector is (when looking at it from the front) is in the left front corner,its a styrofoam disc with a rod in the center of it and has floated up activating the flood switch on the letf side wall where the water enters the tub (can be seen on the left side with side panel removed) if thier is no water in the base frame perhaps some foreign object has wedged itself under the sytrofoam disc holding it up. Until the water is out of the base frame only the pump will run as long as the flood switch is tripped.
Possible things that will make water be in the base frame are, oversuds from too much detergent a leak of any component or hose a defective water level switch allowing it to overfill
The water level in the machine should be slightly under the heat element. The float you refer to is only for overfill and should not be activated if the machine is filling properly (the water level should be lower than the float switch activation point).
The resistance range on the inlet valve is 890 - 1080 ohms
The machine fills on time and there is flow restrictive washer in the valve, if it becomes contaminated the water level will be insufficient.
Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.
The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.
Check for a clog internal or external.
Scoop as much water our as you can. Open the cover on the floor of the machine. Usually just turns and lifts out or snaps out some are screwed in. Take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog there.
Check for clog in the drain. The dishwasher will connect to the drain under your sink and run either directly to the drain or into your disposal unit. Remove open the connections and look for a clog. Clear if necessary.
Not the clog?
Water is pumped out by the machine via an internal pump located under the base. If it fails the water will collect until it trips the float valve. First scoop out all the water from the machine and run it again. If water comes in and it runs to the point it fills again and trips the float then either the pump or timer is faulty.
Remove the machine. It will be held in place by screws directly into the counter top. You may have to lower it to get it out. The front feet turn with a wrench to lower.
Turn off the water supply. Run the unit again until you get to the drain cycle.
Connect a test light or voltage tester to the terminals at the pump. Check for voltage at the pump. If you have voltage replace the pump. If no voltage the timer is faulty.
Timer problem? Some can be replaced as a unit others are integral to the control panel. Turn style can be replaced. Touch control can not.
For more help go to my more detailed tip "Dishwasher will not run. DW101 how to fix". Or click on my profile and you will find the link there.
Hope this helped you. Please take the time to rate this tip.
If you're sure it is heating the water, then it sounds like the wash motor/pump has failed. If you've worked on washing machines and/or dish washers before, this is potentialy a DIY job - the Haynes Dishwasher manual is very good, and parts can be found on the internet.
The reason for cheking it is actually heating the water is that the symptoms sound very similar to those of a failed heater = fill, pause, empty, stop usually accompanied wth an error code. Error code will be presented by a number of flashes of a lamp, or a number on a display panle depending whch machine you've got.
The problem is most likely that your drain valve is defective. If this happens, the water will pump out instead of circulating. There may also be something stuck in the drain valve causing it to stay open.
The water fill sequence on most washers is timed. Insufficient water at the bottom of the washer will cause the pump to cavitate.
Ensure water is filling to just under the heating element.
You can fix this by isolating the water and electricity then remove the fill solenoid. Inside the solenoid is a top hat filter screen. This screen captures sedement.
Once the sedement was removed on my washer the wands turned
My machine also had a check valve on the bottom near the back of the machine that was blocked.The valve needs to work freely in order for the pump to build pressure. The check valve can be removed from the top by turning the assembly counter clock wise.
I have had my Fisher Paykel dishdrawer for 8 years and it has never completely worked. I would get a U3 code on the top drawer intermittently. I have had my drains rerouted twice, LP - HP reset, service men replace the back flow flap and mother boards without luck... until I was able to get my hands on the service manual. Turns out the solution is quite easy. If you have a problem with the U3 code it means the drawer is not draining appropriately, The washer only gives a preprogrammed 60 sec to drain the drawer. So if your drawer is overfilled, it will think it has a drain problem. The following is taken from the service manual...
"U3 - Time to fill was too short, indicating water was still in the tub. Possible Causes: · Drain pump is blocked. · Drain hose is blocked. · Sprayarm or rotor not turning freely. · Motor electronics have failed. · Machine set to 'LP' on a high pressure water supply.
The tub fills with approximately 2.2 litres of water, level with the base of the spray arm attachment. Once this level is reached, the wash pump (which has sensed the fill at 30 second intervals during the fill), becomes primed and pumps the water through the spray arm which will then rotate. The water level is monitored by sensing the motor load through the electronics."
The solution is to turn your water supply valve part of the way on to limit the gpm flow to the drawer. This way, the drawer will not have over-filled in the 30 sec it took to sense the motor load. I have tried it and wow no more U3. Hope it makes sense and hope it works for you. jim
The washer may be attempting to run dry. Many times on these washers, a person may open the washer and then go to another load. The washer gets stuck with a dry pump until the timer tells water fill valve to open. Easy test. Start on regular cycle ,slowly advance the timer. it will click until you here the fill start and water will fill until.....