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r u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
WASHER WILL NOT START:
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
It's possible that the current rating of the MCB is too low to run your washing machine PLUS all the devices plugged into the other sockets on the same circuit. If possible, try plugging in the washing machine on a circuit with fewer or no other appliances plugged in. MCB's are much faster tripping than circuit breakers and are rated to trip at the current rating on them. Circuit breakers, may carry a current slightly over the rated current which may be why it never happened before. The permanent solutions (if the overloaded circuit is the problem) would be to install a circuit solely for the washer and dryer or install a MCB with a higher current rating. The latter solution is not practical, however, since an overload on lower power devices may never reach the current rating of the MCB creating a hazardous shock potential.
THE SPEED SELECTOR SWITCH MAY BE SHORTED CAUSING THE MOTOR TO TRY AND RUN ON BOTH THE LOW AND HIGH SPEED WINDINGS. THIS WILL PULL TOO MUCH CURRENT AND TRIP THE BREAKER.
THE MOTOR WINDINGS FOR THE HIGH SPEED COULD BE SHORTED CAUSING EXCESSIVE CURRENT DRAW.
to see whether power is getting to the washing machine. Is it plugged
in? Has a fuse blown or is a circuit breaker tripped?
the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not
function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing
near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front
of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near
the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit
won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.