We use the both the 425 and 475 solo sprayers most days at work and when they start to lose pressure ( after 6 months of daily professional use) we purchase a complete seal kit and put it through them. The only part I can't work out how to remove is the inside cylinder, other than that everything else is easily removed and replaced.
After having the same problem,( no mention of this in manual),i sort help via internet. Someone had posted that a hammer and block of wood could be used, the 2x3 about a foot long is put through top of tank and on top of pressure cylinder.It does work, if you use a club hammer and the 3x2 oak, or similar! And the conviction to whack hard. Also helps if you block between underside of tank and the steel stand frame, reduces the bounce.Take care not to put block so small tube on underside of cylinder gets stopped.Good luck.
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I loss pressure, read the manual, took the slide out and saw that the o-ring was crimped out of shape, thus the loss of seal and no pressure! Popped it back to position and it spray is now powerful as day 1...patience is rewarded!
the reason it might not pressurize is there might be a hole in your tank or hose to the spraier itself if it has holes in the hose get a new one put it on the tank and handle. if hole in the tank duct tape it or seal it with a sealent. but it wont pressurize with a hole because the air comes in and out of the hole. hope this helps you
you need to take your wand nozzle apart and clean it thoroughly. I would recommend taking it apart and making sure the entire unit is clean. Depending on what you spray through it, or how often you use it. May have to clean it more often.
your dip tube inside the tank has come loose or has a leak near the top. instead of fluid being pushed up the dip tube into the wand hose the air in the tank is just escaping. You will have to remove the wand hose and figure out where the leak is and fix the dip tube.
Hose end sprayers are the simplest and least expensive of the category. A sprayer jar is attached to a regular garden sprayer. Concentrated material is added to the sprayer jar. An adjustment on the jar determines the amount delivered. The force of the water through the hose pulls the material up from the jar and mixes and dilutes it with the water. A built-in anti-siphon device prevents unused material from being pulled back into your water supply.
Compression or tank sprayers are the most common type of spray equipment. Concentrated material is added to the tank. Water is then added to a marked fill line. The remaining air is pressurized by pumping the handle a designated number of times. A control lever on the wand controls the spray pattern and amount. Compression sprayers provide a precise, on target, non-drift spray good for soil and lawn pests. Adjust the sprayer for a coarse, drenching spray, a concentrated stream or a fine mist.
Tank capacities range from 1 quart to over 3 gallon for handheld models. Homeowner type backpack sprayers hold up 4 gallons. The tanks may be made from polyethylene plastic, galvanized steel or stainless steel.
In addition to treatments for pests and diseases, compression sprayers are designed for applying cleaning solutions for decks and siding.
Backpack sprayers are operated in the same manner as the handheld compression sprayer. The over-the-shoulder configuration makes it easier to carry the heavier load of material. Some backpack models also use a lever-style pump to maintain pressure without removing the unit form your back.
Powered sprayers rely on a gasoline engine for spray power. Great for larger yards or gardens due to portability and capacity (12 gallons).
Dusters are a slightly different breed. Dry powders (mostly for blooming plants such as roses) are added to a canister and applied by manually pumping.
NOTE: Compression sprayers deliver liquid under pressure. Compression sprayers are powerful and efficient tools. This fact also makes them potentially dangerous. Always read the manufacturer's instructions and safety precautions carefully.