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Re: Air flow and heating problem inside dryer.
???? this doesnt make much sense, can see how you would be measuring air flow within the cabinet??? air blowing out unit strong means your gettin good air flow fom within, that is a direct relation as to the amount of (hot) air being pulled across the clothing
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Check the following:
1. Does it have 220 volts (yes it runs, but dryers run on 110 volts)?
2. Check the heating element and the safety thermostats located on the heat element canister. Low air flow from any restriction like lint build up or mashed ducting or blocked air exhaust vent cap can either trip the safety stats or burn out the element. Clean dryer and exhaust ducting thoroughly and replace bad parts before placing back in service. Poor air flow is the number one problem with "No Heat" dryer issues.
Well if it's a gas dryer and if your dryer tumbles, but there is no heat then you may please check out the following - 1. First of all you can check out for proper air flow - Check the vent for proper air flow by placing your hand over the exterior vent while the dryer is running. You should feel a strong flow of air. If not then check the lint trap. It is located either on top of the dryer or possibly just inside the door. Remove any lint that has built up in the lint trap. Cleaning the lint trap should be done regularly, even as often as after every load. Do not operate the dryer without a lint trap in place. 2. Secondly you can check out the Ignitor - gas dryer blows air through a burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low or no heat and slow drying of the clothes. Post comments for further help or information.....
The thermal fuse, if blown, usually blows for a reason. In most cases this is attributed to a dryer that does not have sufficient ventilation and has become clogged either internally or somewhere within the ventilation ducting. I would strongly recommend that before you attempt to by-pass a safety device,that you try to resolve the problem that may have caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Failure to do so, can result in a more significant failure of the dryer and/or become a potential fire hazard. If you need some advice on how to trouble shoot an ELECTRIC dryer, the following links can give you some guidance on some of the most common problems:
In severe cases of dryer vent clogging, you may experience condensation inside the drum and/or vent exhaust. The dryer exhausts warm, moist air. If the heat and moisture have no where to go, it will condensate inside the drum and exhaust vent.Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards. There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this usually a good sign the heating element is working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat. NOTE: If you have already determined the exhaust ventilation is clear from the point where it leaves the back of the dryer to the point where it exits your home, you need to check the vent hose run to ensure there are no excessive bends or kinks that can be causing choke points that restrict air flow. If the vent line checks ok, then you need to inspect your blower fan housing inside the dryer to ensure it is not clogged.If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
The thermostat could be turning the heater off too soon OR the air flow could be restricted inside/outside the machine.
Disconnect the vent tube from the back of the machine to check the air flow. It should blow quite strong. Lint buildup inside the machine can restrict the air flow significantly. Make sure the vent tube and duct to the outside is clear.
Also, check the heat temperature. It should heat up to 130-140 degrees F, cool down to 100-120 degrees F, then repeat.
when the dryer is running go to the out side of the home and look for the exhaust vent and check the amount of air flow coming out it should be very strong.
if the air flow is week then ther is a restriction come where and needs to be cleaned out.
if you have a leaf blower you can remove the ducting that is behind the dryer and stick the blower tube down the exhaust hole and turn it on this will blow alot of lint out of the ducting.
also be sure to check your dryer itself and make sure it also clean
Does the dryer heat up or is it just cool air drying the clothes ? If it does actually dry the clothes eventually then it sounds like it is heating up. First thing to check would be exhaust hose. Is warm air blowing out of it ? If warm you got heat. If cool then your heating element isn't working. It should be fairly strong current of very warm air. If weak but warm, then somewhere between lint filter and end of hose you have a blockage caused by lint buildup or hose is bent and blocking air flow. Check hose first. You can disassemble lint trap and go beyond the lint screen into metal duct within dryer and clean with a long brush and vacuum. You can also disconnect exhaust duct flexible hose at back of dryer and work through metal duct from that end too. If you notice increased air flow then it should solve problem,
No air flow correlates to the Blower not turning on..With power disabled, can you gain access to the blower and make sure it doesn't have anything inside it that would keep it from rotating to move air? If the blower is able to spin freely, then I would reapply power to see if the blower is getting AC to it ( Use extreme caution while working inside the dryer when you have AC applied to it) You may have a defective blower/motor assembly.
Try disconnecting the vent at the back of the dryer and run the dryer with the air blowing just into your laundry room for a few minutes. Air flow should be strong and you should feel discharge air heating. It still sounds to me as if the dryer has flex vent and maybe does not line up with the dryer outlet, so that when the dryer is pushed back into place the actual space left for the exhaust air to pass through is very small. If this is the case, there is a telescopic low profile aluminum vent available to solve the problem.
Poor drying problems with dryers generally are attributed to clogged ducting. You have probably heard this before, but the first (and least expensive) fix for any dryer with long dry times is to check the air movement. As well know, dryers require good air flow to ensure proper drying. Now, when you said the air movement is strong, were you checking it at the air vent exhaust outside, or were you checking on the back of the dryer? An easy way to tell if there's a clog in the ducting, or a clog in the dryer is to run one load with the dryer vent disconnected from the back of the machine. Only run one load like this. Not a good idea to blow hot moist air into an enclosed area of your home over a period of time because it can cause mildew problems. If the dryer blows freely and your clothes dry faster, you know you need to check the ducting from where it connects to the wall to where it ends at the exhaust vent. Often it is not enough to just clean the lint trap and the outside vent. You need to check what's in between them as well. Mice and birds are notorious for building nests in dryer vents and clogging them up. Now...if the dryer is blowing poorly at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer, you will need to remove the door kick panel under the door and remove the vent duct housing to get to the blower fan. Make sure you unplug the dryer before attempting this. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Lint can get trapped in vent housing and restrict the movement of the fan, which, in turn, will cause poor air movement and longer dry times. Last of all, take a temperature reading at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer. A good temperature reading is roughly 140 degrees F. If the temperature is too low, you may have an operating thermostat or high limit thermostat malfunctioning. Check your vent ducting, first and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.