Question about Dryers
SOURCE: Kemore Dryer / Model # 63742
I'm not familiar with this specific Dryer, but in most of them you can find their wiring diagram glued under the upper panel or the rear panel. Good luck !
Posted on May 16, 2006
I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Posted on Dec 02, 2007
SOURCE: Heating element
The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.
Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.
CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.
Posted on Feb 24, 2008
Posted on Mar 06, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat
The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
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