Question about Dryers

Open Question

I just replaced the heating element on my dryer model LE5810xPNO. I marked the wires that connect to the doodads on the metal cover of the heating element. Unfortunatly i removed the sensor/a small transistor at the top of the dryer heating elements cover. Even though i have the wires marked I dont know wich way is up for this little part. This part number is 695563L324F. I would assume the numering on this little part would face out so when you read it it would be the normal left to rite. But I want to be sure.

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: Kemore Dryer / Model # 63742

I'm not familiar with this specific Dryer, but in most of them you can find their wiring diagram glued under the upper panel or the rear panel. Good luck !

Posted on May 16, 2006

watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101

I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 02, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Heating element

The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

Posted on Feb 24, 2008

  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: Newer Whirlpool Dryer Heat Element keeps breaking

  • clean out the dryer vent make sure hose behind dryer not pinched close ck the temp comeing out bac k dryer should be around 160

Posted on Mar 06, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat

The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Admiral Dryer will not heat

fixya is worthlessya!

Posted on Oct 25, 2011

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool front loader dryer duet, and I am not getting any heat! My husband and I took it all apart and cleaned everything and checked all the fuses and elemts everything was working just fine,...


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating elements faulty, replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the cover .The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Oct 02, 2013 | Dryers

Tip

How to Replace Heating Element from a Maytag Dryer?


The procedure is as follows:--- 1) First of all unplug the dryer from electric outlet for safety reasons.
2) Locate the vent hose on the rear of the dryer and disconnect this hose from dryer unit.
3) The hose is mostly fixed in a metal clamp and the metal clamp is fixed by the screw. Loosen the screw and remove the clamp and remove the hose.
4) The heating element is located in the cabinet.
5) In some models the cabinet is located at the rear of the dryer. And in some model its located in the front of the dryer.
6) Locate the heating element cabinet and remove the screws holding the cabinet.
7) You will see the heating element now. There are wires connecting on the sides of the heating element terminals. The wires are connected by removable connector.
8) Remove the connector carefully from heating element with the help of needle nose plier.
9) After the wires are removed from heating element’s terminals. Remove the screws holding the heating element.
10) The heating will have to be moved a bit to come out easily. Before removing the heating element out. Please note down the position of old heating element. So while placing the new heating element you don’t face any problem.
11) Remove the old heating element and insert the new heating element.
12) Connect all the wires as it were connected before.
13) Refit all the parts which you removed while removing the old heating element in reverse method. Take care you don’t miss any part fitting.
This will help. Thanks.

on Mar 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Cu ft maytag performa


make this tests and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover . The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Oct 02, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but no heat


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Sep 27, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

How do I replace the thermomistor on GEW9250PWO


see this causes and fix it, use the common sense. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Sep 27, 2012 | Whirlpool GEW9200L Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Our dryer doesn't dry clothes like it should, sometimes takes a long long time and other times quick and the clothes feel really hot, model # is DLE 2532W


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Sep 27, 2012 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not getting hot


First ck and make sure you have 220 volts to the dryer. It will run on 110v if one side of the breaker is bad. The other culprits are a limit switch heating element or thermal fuse. If you have 220 volts and the dryer runs just does not heat first turn off the power to the dryer and unplug the dryer from the outlet. Pull the dryer out and remove the lower back panel it is held on by several 5/16 hex screws. (not the back plate on the switch panel) Remove the back and your heater is on the lower right hand side and is inside an metal shell. The thermal limit is also on the metal shell and will have several wires running to it. And if you trace the wires from the element and this thermal limit it will go to the thermal fuse it is on the lower back slightly to the right of the dryer and has two wires run to it and is about the size of a dime or smaller. Unplug the two wires from the termal fuse and hook them together with a papper clip or just tape them together make sure it doesn't touch metal. (this will short it out) and then plug up the dryer and try it to see if it heats you do not need to hook up the vent. (make sure not to touch the back of the dryer and especially any exsposed wires. If it heats up your thermal fuse is bad replace it. If it does not you should check your heating element first unplug the dryer and reattach the wires to the thermal fuse. Then the heating element metal shell should be removed. First unplug the wires to the heating element and thermal limit switch and mark them so you know where they go. Next remove the screw at the top of the metal shell pickup and pull back on the shell to disengage it from the dryer. You can then remove it and inside is the heating element it is attached to the shell with 5/16 hex screws. Remove the screws and pull the heating element out of the bottom of the metal shell. Look closely and you should see the heating element break. The element is a coiled wire and when it heats up the wire actually grows in length and when it is off it cools and shrinks this causes fatique and the wire breaks over time. If the wire is broke replace the element. Look very closely use a pencil to move the wire slightly it is sometimes very hard to see the break. If broken replace the element and make sure not to touch the new element with your fingers this can case premature hot spots which causes the element to fail prematurely. If the wire is not broken then the thermal limit attached to the metal shell that holds the heating element is bad. Before doing any of the above you should look at all the wires in the back of the dryer and look for burnt or broken wires replace or repair them and check the dryer before any other repairs should be entertained. Before replaceing the back on the dryer clean all of the lint out of the back of the dryer and out of the dryer vent. This is very good insureance for the future of your dryer. Good Luck and I hope this is useful.

Sep 28, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool/Kenmore # 279838 instruction manual


Before replacing the element, have you checked the thermo switch to see it is working ? If you have this is what you need to do.
To replace the element you will need to remove the rear cover and then remove the element box ( a oddly shaped metal box ) that contains the element, then replace the element inside it by bending tabs that hold it in or ceramic parts that hold the wires off of the metal depending on the model you have. there are only 2 wires that are connected to the element.

Nov 18, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

I have a maytag model 747g dryer. I dryer tumbles


The heating element is burnt out. Unplug the dryer. Follow the wires from the control panel. They will go to the heating element. The element is probably held in by anywhere from 2 to 6 screws. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull out the element. The element is coiled wire that heats up when power is applied. If you look closely you can probably see a break in it. To get a replacement you will need the model number which will be on a metal plate either on the back of the dryer or inside the dryer door. Take the old part with you so you can do a comparison and make sure you get the right part.

Jul 17, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer just quit heating


First-***DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICITY***. Open the back of the dryer. The element will be in a flat metal tube running from the top to the bottom of the back of the dryer. There will be a few wires connected to it. Mark where these go for reassembly. The heater wires are inside the tube. The whole assembly comes apart quite easily to replace the element. It looks like a stretched out spring.

May 02, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636L Electric Dryer

Not finding what you are looking for?

Open Questions:

Dryers Logo

Related Topics:

68 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3056 Answers

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Are you a Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...