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You turn system on to cool setting and run temp down until outside unit comes on. Then you connect your suction side of your gauges to the suction side of your outdoor unit. Next you connect the liquid(high)side of your gauges to the liquid line on your outside unit(the little copper line). Connect the middle hose of your gauges to the 410a drum of refrigerant. Before opening the suction or low pressure side of the gauges you need to turn the drum upside down and turn drum of 410a on. Then you need a temp reading meter and clamp to read the temp of your liquid line(small line). While charging you want to make sure to release refrigerant slowly. The unit should call for a specified subcooling on unit plate. 7 to 10 degrees. You take the liquid line temp and subtract it from saturation temp on the high side of your gauges.(it'll be the pink numbers on the right side of your gauge.
The compressor needs to be running.Also you need freon charging guages and a pressure temp chart to tell how much you need to add. If your not sure of anything i said here have a service person do this.You take a risk of damaging the unit and yourself.
Hello, in order to add freon to a window unit you must add a piercing valve to then low side of the system. The valve mounts to the suction line and allows you to connect your gauges and add freon. Here is a link to where you can purchase piering valves. http://www.hvacr-tools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HVACR&Product_Code=BPV31&Category_Code=VALVES
In order to know if you have the correct charge you must measure the subcooling since it is a txv unit. The outside unit will have the proper subooling you need printed on the data plate. Hook up you gauges and let thebunit run for 10 minutes, after 10 minutes check the high side pressure, that high side pressure will correspond to a saturation temp, write that number down then measure the temp of the liquid line and subtract the saturation temp from the liquid line temp, it should be the same as printed on tjhe data plate if it is higher than that add refrigerant untill you get whtas printed on tne data plate. Is there is no data plate use 12 degrees of subcooling.
Hi Frans! I'm Roger. I have never had to disconnect the Evaporator from the Condenser to clean them but here is your answer. Use the access valves on the liquid side of the condenser. After evacuating, let the vacuum pull liquid R22 into the liquid line access valve to about 80 gauge pounds and close your refrigerant port on the manifold. Start the unit and add GAS to the suction port to bring your pressure up. If you have a scroll type compressor you can add liquid to the suction port but add gas just to be safe. Exactly how much you add depends on the efficiency of the compressor and how cold you want the discharge air to be. Normally we shoot for 34 to 40 degree evaporator with 18 to 25 degree temperature drop across the coil. R22 at 34 degrees is 60.2 PSI (Pounds per square inch) on your compound gauge. That's normally blue and on the left side of the manifold. The gauge that's hooked to the suction line. 40 degrees is 68.6 PSI. The amount it will take depends on the size of the condenser and length of your line set. Watch the amp draw on the compressor while charging. The name tag will have an RLA or FLA number that is the normal operating amperage of the unit. Add gas on till the suction line is cold at the compressor, then wait 5 or 10 minutes for the system to stabilize. Adjust you pressure again and you should be done. Let me know if you need anything else and if so, be as specific as possible. Roger
The AC manifold gauges set have the three chambers: the low pressure chamber (left side), utility chamber (middle), and the high pressure chamber (right side).
When technicians connect the HVAC manifold gauge to the air conditioner units, he connects the low pressure side of air conditioner unit to low pressure gauge side.
If he wants to read the pressure in discharge line he connects the high pressure gauge hose to the air conditioner high pressure side.
The utility port (the middle chamber) is a place you connect the hose to vacuum pump, recovery units or add or remove refrigerant from AC units.
Air conditioning gauges is used to measure air conditioner units pressure within closed-system to evaluate or troubleshoot the AC units. Gauges manifold set is the most frequently used item when it comes to refrigerant or pressure.
Air conditioning gauge set allows the HVAC technician to check AC units operating pressures, transfer AC refrigerant, pressure test system, purge the system with nitrogen, and perform other necessary tasks.
The gauges manifold set includes the hoses, the manifold, the valves, the compound gauge (low pressure gauges) and high pressure gauge.
Hi, this part was left over from the installation. If both copper lines are connected and its been in use, this part if it was in plastic and taped there would go to the indoor unit and is a extra part in case it was needed when installing. Forget this part, not needed. You will need to hook up your manifold gauges blue hose to large side and red to the smaller side. Yellow to freon tank. With both knobs closed on your gauges, open the r-22 jug and loosen the yellow hose just enough to bleed off air in hose and tighten. Charge through the low side valve, blue hose. I am assuming you have the experience to do this If you have never done this before, just to let you know, you can get frost bite from the liquid freon when removing the hose so use gloves and wear safety glasses. Let me know if you need more help. Good Luck, Shastalaker7 PS you can not use R-134a freon and the blue hose they have at the auto store. It has to be R-22 and you must have the manifold gauges. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
FC IS FREON CHARGE, WHAT YOU ARE GETTING IS A HIGH PRESURE CUT OFF FAILURE. THE LABEL PRESURE IS TEST PRESURE. THE RUN PRESURE ON LOW SIDE IN AC MODE IS ABOUT 65 AT 75 T0 80 DEGREES INSIDE AND ABOUT 200-300 HIGH SIDE AT 75 -85 OUTSIDE TEMP. IN HEAT THE LARGE COPPER LINE BECOMES HIGH SIDE HOT WHEN YOU FEEL IT. IF YOUR FREON IS LOW WILL WILL ALSO GET SHUTDOWN. YOU WILL NEED SET OF FREON GAGES AND CONTACT ME BACK
condenser fan won't come on. solution check the capacitor if good ohm out the fan to see if it is bad. If bad replace fan motor with new one.
2. compressor will not come on. solution check the contactor to see if engaging this applies to problem 1 also. If engages check the capacitor on the herm side if it is bad replace. If good check compressor to see if the compressor is bad. Should it be bad replace compressor.
3. High head pressure not cooling properly dirty condenser coils. Clean coils. With hose and water.
4. Low head pressure frosting accruing on suction line. Check freon levels. Also check inside air filter for being dirty.
5. Condenser unit is failing to come on. solution check the power source check the contactor should the main power be bad check main breaker and replace any slow blow fuses that are bad. Should the contactor be bad check transformer to ensure 24 volts going to secondary side on contactor. Inspect the two wire going to outside unit condenser. replace any broken wire any bad transformer or bad contactor.
There are two lines leading into the unit, the high side aND THE LOW SIDE. tO ADD FREON you need to add a valve to the low side line. But if you have a leak that indicates that moisture is in the unit and you need to pull a valum to remove the moisture before ADDING ANY FREON. There are as last known three types of freon, R22, R134a and this last one I dont even know the name.