Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Kenmore Heater not heating like it used to!

I read JSROCK516 opinion on dryers 11/2/07...helpful and thanks.
Our Heater once interrupted midway through cycle does not want to restart until a certain 1 hr or so.  We cleaned the entire duct work system ourselves...clean as a whistle.
After above, the dryer starts back up again, but after full cycle the clothes continue to be 70% dry or so.
I am about to open up the front mechanism to "check it out"...can an amateur do this there a special tool I need to test the heating mechanism???
Thanks so much.

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  • mrhcrh Jan 14, 2009

    Thanks for the quick response.
    Model # is 66902691.

    I just ran it again tonight...and, indeed, it still kicks off after 10-15 minutes of cycle leaving clothes NOT dry.  The heat seems great by feel, the air flow is great inside and outside as well.???  Thermostat does not seem likely???

    Your help is huge for us....again, we appreciate your help.


  • mrhcrh Jan 14, 2009

    I have opened it up...

    Would a faulty operating thermostat cause it to kick off after 10 minutes or so??

    I can't exactly locate the blower fan this the rectangle under the drum on the right???

    Should I see the fan?
    I have the diagram printed up? But can't utilize the numbers to locate the parts exactly??


  • mrhcrh Jan 14, 2009

    I found the fan, its not obstructed...the fan did not have any obvious lint in it.

    Can I get an operating thermostat at a local Sears or must order online?

    There is a low level...1/2 inch of lint on floor of dryer...would this affect things??? Obviously I will clean this as well.

    Thanks again.

  • mrhcrh Jan 14, 2009

    Sorry to belabor these points...

    Just to verify...the dryer does cycle off after 10-15min but does not turn back on.  Is this not abnormal?

    Per your recommendation, I'll start with the thermostat.


  • mrhcrh Jan 16, 2009

    I'm still here...
    I replace OT tonite, and extensively cleaned out motor of all lint...

    After 8 minutes, it quit...I waited 15min, then retried makes a noise like its trying to start, 2-3 x higher pitch, then fails altogether...

    A sears consultant thinks its the motor altogether!

    I may attack replacing motor next; i could not get blower housing off (do I need special tool?)...
    Also I could not access to get the belt off, what's the trick?

    Thanks my friend for your time,

  • Anonymous Feb 08, 2009

    I have the same problem with my dryer. Did you find a solution to the problem?

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell May 11, 2010

    Please post your model number so that I may be able to determine how your dryer is configured and be able to explain how to access the internal components. Yes, an amateur can take apart a dryer without the need for any special tools, and with just a little guidance. NOTE: If the dyer is heating, the problem probably is NOT the heating element. This may be a thermostat problem.


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If your dryer IS heating, more than likely the heating element is NOT the cause. There are two thermostats that control the operation of the heating circuits. One, is the operating thermostat which regulates the internal temperature around 150 degrees and the other is the Hi-limit thermostat that cuts-off the heating circuits in an overheat condition of about 250 degrees. You can access the internal components through the lower front panel under the door. The panel can be removed by inserting a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the front cabinet about 2 inches in from each side. There are two retaining clips that you need to depress with the putty knife to remove the panel. Once the panel is removed, locate the heater box on the right hand side under the drum. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the left hand side of the heat box. The Operating Thermostat (Internal Bias) is located on the blower fan housing under the drum. There are drawings available at or to assist you. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (inlcude the "110." prefix) and you will find the heating circuits located under the "Bulkhead" heading. The Operating Thermostat (Internal Bias) is listed as item number 42, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is listed as item number 48.

What you need to do first is determine is the blower fan housing is unobstructed. I know you mentioned cleaning your dryer, but did you also clean the INTERIOR. The blower fan housing can be a common point for lint to collect and restrict air flow. In addition (no attempt to insult anyone's intelligence here) are you making sure you properly sort your laundry when drying? More dense items, will take longer to dry and overloading can cause the same problem.

If your blower fan housing is clear, I suspect you may have a defective Operating Thermostat. If you wish to double check everything to make sure, the following link explains some common causes of dryer problems:

If you have questions, or if you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you solve your problem.

PS Even though I said I didn't believe the heating element to be bad, does not necessarily mean it is. They DO become weak with age and may not heat as well as they should. Double check the resistance. NOTE: Please ensure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Also, make sure you disconnect any wire leads when measuring across components for more accurate resistance readings.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 14, 2009

    I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I work a regular job and only do this in my spare time. Just wanted to let you know that it is NORMAL for the dryer to cycle on and off. The heating element will not stay on continuously. It is designed to heat to the desitred temperature for the cycle selected, then cycle off. tis prevents the drum and heating circuits from overheating. Now, if your dryer is cycling off prematurely (i.e., a weak thermostat that's not cycling at the appropriate interval), this will impact the drying results of the dryer and may extend the dry times.

    Replacement parts may be ordered on line at, as I mentioned in my previous post. If you do not wish to order on line, take the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are standard items they should carry in their inventory.

    The lint accumulation in the bottom of the dryer could be an indication of clogged ventilation ducting. Since you stated that the ducting has been cleaned and the blower fan assembly does not have any accumulations of lint, I'm assuming this may be been leftover from before you cleaned your ventilation. Yes, this can cause problems with your dryer. In particular, this creates a fire hazard. A layer of matted lint, next to a glowing heating element generally is not a good mix. It is a good idea to clean this out thoroughly.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 14, 2009

    Confirm: That is abnormal. The dryer should cycle off after heating to the cut-off point of the thermostat, but then should come back on. If the dryer is shutting off completely, meaning the drum stops as well, this may NOT be a thermostat. I can understand your persistance if this is the case.

    I did have one strange circumstance where I was repairing a dryer that exhibited the same symptoms as yours and it turned out the be the Thermal Fuse instead of the thermostats. This is the small plastic component on the air blower housing next the the Internal Bias Thermostat. It was odd, because this component normally blows when it fails like a fuse. The only thing I could figure was that the filament inside was weak and would break down when it reached a certain temperature and open. It was one of the strangest faults I've ever seen. The only way I found it was after I repaced BOTH thermostats and the dryer still didn't work. So...I took resistance readings of all components when they were cool, and when they were hot. I noted the difference on the thermal fuse when it was hot. This is item number 59 under the "Bulkhead" listing at I do apologize if this is the case, and I lead you in the wrong direction.

    Continue to belabor if you have to. The only way to get a positive resolution sometimes is to fully understand the problem. Better to clarify, than to overlook something. Let me know if you still need assistance.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 16, 2009

    To access the inside of the dryer, you need to remove the operating console, the top panel, the lower panel under the door, followed by the door facing. It sounds like a lot, but the unit does come apart fairly simple. Follow these steps:

    1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing.

    2. Remove the top panel with console. This is usually accompished in the following ways:

    a. Reaching from the front of the dryer to the back two corners of the top panel. Pull towards you and the panel should lift up with the console in place. If the top panel does not move, then proceed to next step.

    b. Remove the end caps from the console and loosen the screw under each side. The end caps come off by placing a screwdriver in a groove in the back of the panel and giving it a slight twist. The end cap will pop off, exposing the screw. With the screw loosened, the console will lift up. There may be three hex screws under the console holding it in place. With the hex screws removed, the top panel will pull towards you and lift up.

    3. Remove the lower panel under the door.

    4. Duct tape the dryer door shut (you'll thank me later if you do) and unclip the door springs located inside the lower access panel on each side. NOTE: The door may fly open without the springs in place - taping the door shut is a good idea.

    5. Locate the ground wire attached to the front panel and remove.

    6. Disconnect the door switch wires.

    7. Remove the screws that hold the front panel in place. There's two on the bottom and two on the top. With the screws removed, the front panel lifts out of the way.

    8. Remove the dryer drum by locating the idler pulley under the drum and releasing the tension on the belt. This is accomplished by getting on your hands and knees and placing one of your shoulders against the front of the drum for support. Reach behind the blower fan housing for the idler pulley and release the tension and remove the belt from the motor pulley.

    9. With the tension released, leave the belt around the drum and pul it straight up. Use the belt to lift the drum and carry it out of the cabinet.

    Now you should have full access to the cabinet interior. The drive motor is directly behind the blower fan housing on your dryer. It is feasible that the motor may be failing. I do not see a separate thermal switch on your motor, which leads me to believe it may have an an internal one and will require replacement of the entire motor.

    Now...keep these simple things in mind. Before assuming you have a bad drive motor (expensive) check the tension spring on the idler pulley. The spring keeps tension on the broken belt switch. This switch is desinged to stop the dryer if the belt breaks to prevent the broken belt from getting wrapped around the motor shaft. If the spring is loose, it may cause the tension to release enough on the switch and stop the dryer. In addition, the broken belt switch itself could be malfunctioning. You can test the switch by pulling on the idler pulley and listening for the switch to make contact. has an illustration of this under the "Bulkhead" heading. The Broken Belt switch is listed as item 5. Also make sure the jumper wire (item 6) is intact and making good contact. Poor connectivity can also cause your problem. Last of all, the dryer belt. If the belt is old, it may have stretched over time and is not keeping the tension of the idler pulley too (something else to consider).

    I just wanted to give you some less expensive options to try before tackling the motor (item 27). Have you tried the thermal fuse option?

    If you still wish to replace the drive motor, take the part number from the Sears website (279787) and go to They have the part listed for a better price. The motor is removed by prying up on the motor clamps.

    I hope this gives you some more things to work with. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction. Intermittent problems are generally the hardest to troubleshoot.

    Let me know if you have more questions.


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the situation of a dryer not haveing heat can be attributed to a number of differnt parts finding out which one is not working properly would require you to use a multimeter and test the continuity in each part. In all dryers there is a hi and a low thermostat this is what tells the unit that it is either getting to hot and to shut off the heater or its time to turn back on the heater due to the tempreture being below what the factory set parameters are to dry you clothes. following testing the hi and low you can also test the heater by doing also a continuity test on this as well these are the three main parts that short and sometimes if you dont take apart the unit at least once a year and de lint your unit this will cause this type of situation. If all these three are in proper working order then you would have to look at the wiring, the motor , and the timer but usually the problem is within the first three parts mentioned if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to help others in similar situations. Thanks Rick

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Hello My Kenmore 84152 dryer stopped making heat. I have varified the 2 thermo units each read 0 ohms the lower thermister on the blower houseing read 89.4k ohms and I can't for the life of me get to the...


May 30, 2008 | Kenmore Dryers

3 Answers

Kenmore elite electric dryer 11084832200

If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry clothes properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door:

a. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
b. On models with no lower kick panel, lift the dryer top and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.
c. The Kenmore Elite & Whirlpool Duet have a couple of screws under the bottom edge of the panel under the door that you need to remove.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.

I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.

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1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer

If you go to, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

Mar 17, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

3 Answers

Heating element

The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

Feb 23, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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