Question about Philco 841205 Turntable

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Streched CD drive belt

Where can I get a new CD player drive belt? I have a Philco Turntable, CD with Cassette. #841.205

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Turntableneedles.com has about 450 belt sizes in stock. your unit is too new to have this listing yet as the belt should not have failed already so when you call be ready with the length of the old belt. Don't worry that it is stretched, a new size will be calculated that is about 3-5% shorter.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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I have a new Philco Turntable CD with Cassette Player, Article No. 841-205, that was given to me by famly who says neither the record player, CD or Cassette players worked. When I turn it on you can hear...


First let us review. You have a modular player (and recorder?) unit that includes the following playback elements: a compact disc (music) player; a tape cassette player (with?/without[?] second/overdub recorder or record head[?] on a single tape drive unit); and a phonograph record player/changer(?) including turntable, tone arm with stylus on ceramic[?] or magnetic[?] pickup cartridge. We can assume the unit has integrated or connected speakers since you say that applying touch pressure on the stylus produces a current (as pickup styluses are wont to do under pressure) detectible as audible sound in the same manner as pressure from tone arm weight on a musical record groove impression. Now, such units in their original form from analog days would also probably have had "EXT(ternal)" and/or EAR[phone] output jack or jacks for connection to an external audio output "player" typically driving large speakers networks in cabinets comprising large woofer, smaller midrange and even smaller tweeter speakers.

We know also that the multi-playback-mode appliance includes a pre-amplifer...how? Because a stylus (or even ancient needles) were/are never provided electric power input (like tube or transistor) but actually created their own, very weak current (aka piezo-electricity) which, in order to be amplified to drive speakers, had to first be preamplified to a signal level sufficient to drive an amplifer. So the finger rub you hear is evidence of pre-amplified signal power reaching an amplifer. Therefore, it should be safe to say that the amplification system is functional--as is, I assume also, would be the volume control you operated during neede stimulation.

So, now let us take survey of what actually seems to be NOT working (and, please, do use the COMMENT blank to correct any error or oversight--
  • Turntable:
    • Power-On indicator or indication
    • Platter drive motor and linkages, including
    • Tone arm transport
    • Record changer spindle (if present)
  • Magnetic-Tape Casette Player[s?]
    • Power-On indicator or indication
    • Tape-transport-capstan drive motor (&or belt linkage)
    • Cartridge eject button and mechanism
      • Note that a "slack" button due to spring dislodging is a typical failure mode but...that would not cause the other/overall problem/s...so may be disregarded
    • Secondary (Overdub) player, if present (same presumptive failure mode)
    • "Record-start" button and function (if record pickup head present on either tape drive)--but...not a fault-tree item if drive motor is not functioning, which it is not!
  • Compact disc playback [/record-burn?] unit
    • Power-On indicator or indication
    • Insert/eject button functionality
    • CD drive spin/seek motor fuctionality
So now (before imputing fault of a non product kind) we can ask what all of these apparent failures have in common (in the "nothing works" failure mode) as set forth above?

Yes, it would be their common reliance upon AC power...whereas the only devise that seems operable, the amplifers to drive the speaker(s), with virtual certainty, functions on rectified AC power--that is to say, DC power...all with one inescapable inference:
  • Household power is split beyond power cord input, respectively, to provide "juice" for the amplification and for the everything else subsystems.
    • Either in the form of a tap for each subsystem
    • Or in the form of a secondary power supply
    • Either or both of which could have been disabled by a current limiting devise such as a fuse
    • But only one (power subsystem) of which the power branch or supply is in failure mode: the "everything else" subsystem.
    • But...
Imputing cause of failure is problematic:
  • Given the absence of any warrantly claim for a failed, "new" player
  • Given what could accordingly be a construed "washing of hands," evidenced by the seeming gratuitous gifting of a music player with critical-to-fatal flaws, the cause of which the donors might well have "felt" they had played a part.
It would not be unrealistic to surmise that failure might have resulted from such mundane misbehaviors as
  • Plugging into a wrong-voltage outlet
  • Use of an extension cord
  • Failure to temp stabilize after really-cold storage or transport
  • Liquid spillage
  • Or even a thing so common in a "world supply chain" as a supposed MTBF-1x100xhr subassembly's failing in 1x100xsec's.

In a nut shell, if "wall voltage" reads at input, and none shows at fuse, power supply, wiring ouput to each playback subsystem, then nothing but a common return flaw is likely to affect every subsystem except amplification.

If only Philco were really a manufacturer any more!

Oct 26, 2014 | Turntables

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Why won't my 3 drawer cd player won't shift or open?


The drawer is operated by a small rubber belt. It's most likely broken or slipped off. You can fix this yourself by looking inside for the belt. If it's broken, just measure the diameter in MM and put "Drive belt XX MM" into Google and it should turn up. You don't have to be spot on with the measurement.

Aug 18, 2014 | Turntables

1 Answer

A few years ago I purchased a Philco capital turntable CD cassette. One day my wife was listening and for some reason she pressed the standby button, ever since then nothing will work. The power does come...


maybe the button when being pressed isn't releasing through a bad button . it would make sense that when the button is pushed it stops all functions so if you r able to disconect the button from the wires tape the wires together to create a closed circuit and see if it works personally i would take it to a repair facility for the safety factor of messing around with it but if u want try it

Sep 26, 2013 | Philco 841205 Turntable

1 Answer

Play records


This indicates to me that either the belt is in the wrong position or that there's something wrong with the drive circuit.

Sep 01, 2013 | Philco 841205 Turntable

1 Answer

Philco 841.205 Turntable Issues


I take it that it doesn't turn? OK two choices for you. Faulty motor, or a on/off switch that doesn't work. If you have to move the arm to start the turntable then some kind of leaver switch is either bent or broken.
I should imagine this model uses no more than a 12 volt motor. If you have no look with the switch, find the motor and take it out. Then stick a 9 volt battery on it, or lower voltage if it's only 6 volt motor. If it don't go it's bust!

Jun 01, 2010 | Philco 841205 Turntable

1 Answer

Turntable not working


http://www.archive.org/details/Turntable_Belt_Installation

above shows the general installation method for virtually all turntables. If it keeps falling off, you will need a new belt.

Feb 03, 2009 | Philco 841205 Turntable

1 Answer

NAD 533 Turntable


Just do a search in Google for "NAD 533 Drive Belt"

- OPTiC
Turntable Technician
www.1200s.com

Sep 01, 2008 | NAD 533 Turntable

1 Answer

Turntable won't turn


In the middle of the TT youll Find a C-Clip It needs to be Removed before the Platter can be removed,You either have a Broken Belt,Or the Grease in the Guide is Old and must be Cleaned out and Relubed

Jul 19, 2007 | Philco PC-841.651 Turntable

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