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Oven broiler not working

My Fridgidaire electric oven/broiler will not heat.(model # plef398dc) I have 240v at block terminal in range,but 0v across oven/broiler heating elements.I do get 120v at all four posts for oven/broiler heating elements when I go to ground...stove top seems to work properly and oven/broiler controls seem to work properly...just no heat ...is there a fuse on electronic control board that could cause this problem
Thanks

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SOURCE: Heat elements in oven/broiler do not heat up

I would say to go and reset your curciut breaker first if this is a electric oven. needs 220 volts for both element to work

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: fridgidaire FGF 374 CCSA oven and broiler do not come on

F1 means it is a defective eeprom. The software is incorrect. Replace EOC. Check inside the bottom drawer on the right side: there was an envelope with the troubleshooting and maintenance diagrams in it.

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

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The baking element is probably the problem...

Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

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GE glass top and oven are not heating?


I have an electric oven that is turning on but not heating up. The oven, broiler, & stove top are not heating up. Any easy solutions to this?

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Fisher Paykel electric oven doesn't heat in Bake mode


Electric Oven: Repairs and Maintenance Electricranges and ovens are generally easy to repair, because there's not muchto go wrong and there's not much you can do. Most repairs are actuallyreplacements, a matter of unplugging the old part and plugging in thenew. Most of the malfunctions that affect electric ranges involvefaulty heating elements.

Caution: Beforedoing any work on an electric range or oven, make sure it's unplugged,or turn off the power to the unit by removing one or more fuses ortripping one or more breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel. If the range is fused at a separate panel, this panelmay be located adjacent to the main panel or in a basement, crawlspace, or other location. If there is a grounding wire to the range,disconnect it. Make sure the power to the unit is off.

Servicing Fuses

Ifthe range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit mayhave its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usuallylocated under the cooktop of the range. In some units, lift the top ofthe range to gain access to the fuse assembly; or lift the elements,remove the drip pans, and look on the sides of the cabinets. Inside theoven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly.


Ifthe unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such asthe oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and aself-cleaning feature may be separately fused.

If thesecomponents or features fail to work, don't overlook the possibilitythat the fuses have blown. To replace a blown fuse, unscrew the oldfuse and install a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Ifthe unit has circuit breakers, push the breaker or reset button, whichis usually located on the control panel.

Replacing Range Heating Elements

Whena range heating element burns out, it's easy to replace. But before youdisassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure therange is receiving power. Here's what you can do:

Step 1:Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blownfuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel.

Step 2:Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken,restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.

Step 3:When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heatingelement is connected to a terminal block in the side of the elementwell. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove themetal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by tworetaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove ascrew-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove apush-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.

how-to-repair-an-oven-8.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove a range heating element, remove the screws holding the terminal
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To test a range element without using a VOM, remove aworking element from its terminal block and connect it to themalfunctioning element terminal. Don't let the test element overlap theedges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if itdoesn't fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the workingelement heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. Ifthe working element doesn't heat, the terminal block wiring or theswitch that controls the element may be faulty. Call a professionalservice person.

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Electric oven and broiler elements are often even easier to test and replace than range elements. Here's how:

Step 1:If the oven element doesn't work, first check to see if the range isreceiving power. Don't overlook the fusing system inside the range.

Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.

Step 3: If the element still doesn't heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.

Step 4:Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power.Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, andremove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. Theelement is usually held in these brackets by screws.

how-to-repair-an-oven-9.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove an oven or broiler heating element, remove the screws or pull
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Step 5:Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isin working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meterreads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should bereplaced. If the element tests all right but doesn't work, the problemmay be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight atthe element connections.

Oven and broiler elements cannot betested without a VOM. If you don't have a VOM, take the element to aprofessional service person for testing. The problem is usually amalfunctioning element; however, you aren't risking much by replacingthe element without a professional test.

Step 6:Take the burned out element with you to the appliance-parts store tomake sure you get the right replacement part; if possible, take themake and model information, too.

To install the new element,place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same waythe old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place.Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven(including its door gasket, oven controls, and timer) are virtually thesame as the components used on gas ranges.

Most problems withgas and electric ovens or ranges are easier to fix than you think. Thekey is knowing how the various parts work and when to replace them.

Have a look at these websites to find parts and details :

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/appliance_range_oven.aspx
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/dataselect.html

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I have a Maytag Electric Range/Oven The Range MODEL#MER5755QAW


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1 Answer

Heat elements in oven/broiler do not heat up


I would say to go and reset your curciut breaker first if this is a electric oven. needs 220 volts for both element to work

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Electric Oven Won't Heat


Rob, sounds like it was just installed. You need 240V on this unit. On the terminal block in back where the power hooks up, it should read 240V across the two outer terminals and 120V from each end to center terminal. Im ruling out the thermal cut out because you never used it. I would start with the power source first. The display sounds like it's getting the 120V it needs to funtion, but I don't think your making the loop for the 240V needed for the bake and broil. Catriver.

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