Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Dryer will not start.

This is a Kenmore Model Stock # 86993110. The start button has been checked, and tested ok. Is the TCO located behind the lower front panel of the unit, and if so what is the best way to get the panel off with no damage/ and easy reinstallation. Thanks for the great site and helpful information.

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The TCO for your dryer is located behind the lower front panel under the door. The panel can be removed by inserting a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the front cabinet about 2 inches in from each side. There are two retaining clips that you need to depress with the putty knife to remove the panel. Once the panel is removed, locate the heater box on the right hand side under the drum. The TCO and hi-limit thermostat are located on the left hand side of the heat box, with the TCO being the component located farthest to the REAR of the dryer. There are drawings available at or to assist you. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (inlcude the "110." prefix) and you will find the heating circuits located under the "Bulkhead" heading.

Now...if your dryer is not starting, the TCO probably isn't the cause. The TCO, if bad, will only affect the heating circuits. More commonly, the THERMAL FUSE is a likely suspect if the dryer fails to start. It is located as item number 59 under the "Bulkhead" section and is installed on the air blower housing directly under the drum. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off. Make sure you disconnect the wire leads to make any resistance checks to rule out false readings caused by parallel paths. The Thermal Fuse should read close to a short if good.

The following link can provide you with more assistance with isolating your problem (if needed):

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009


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Have a Kenmore Model 80 Electric home clothes dryer and it won't start and light won't turn on. It is about 8yrs old. Checked breaker and still no power. Is it likely thermal fuse? If yes, where/what is...

Yes that would definitely be a thermal fuse problem. Take the rear panel off your dryer and look down at the lower left where the blower housing assembly is there will be a white rectangle looking thermostat with 2 blue wires going to it that is your thermal fuse. Unplug the 2 blue wires and then you will have to remove the screw which will be a phillips head or 1/4 bolt then the thermal fuse will slide out you need the model number off the dryer which is located on the top left of the dryer behind the door take that to your local appliance parts store which they carry that in stock and just replace using the same steps above.

Jan 04, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 series model 110-66752500

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer not heat problem:

Begin by verifying the wall receptacle for the proper voltage. If the voltage is not reading between 220-240VAC, this will also give you the same symptoms.

Cleaning out the lint is a good start, but if the lint has accumulated over a period of time, the dryer may have overheated. This usually results in the thermal cut-out (TCO) blowing. The TCO acts as a fuse and once it blows, it must be replaced. Your heating element will be located in the heater box on the right hand side of the dryer with the back panel removed. The TCO will be located at the top end of the heater box, while the hi-limit thermostat will be located adjacent to the ceramic heating element terminals. If the TCO proves to be faulty, replace the TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. The two components are usually sold as a set as part number 279816. You can find these parts at or under the "Bulkhead Parts" section as item number 1. Just use you model number for your search criteria. Failure to replace both parts may result in premature failure of any replaced components.

Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions. Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If kept in a clogged condition, the dryer will continue to overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this is a fire hazard. I hope this helps you.

Jun 01, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Push Button to start and nothing happens.

Hi, The first thing you want to check is that the dryer has power to it. Then check the non resetable fuse. On most models the fuse is located in back of the dryer behind the rear panel.
Once you remove the rear panel, you will see the fuse located on the blower housing (White in color). Take continuity on the fuse. If the fuse has continuity, it is ok. If you an not access the fuse from the back, remove the front lower panel and the fuse is again located on the blower housing.
Other possibilities are door switch, timier, & motor. The fuse is most common problem!!
If I can help further, please let me know.


May 12, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will not start

Forgot to check the thermal fuse. Now working after changing fuse.

Mar 21, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Series Model 11060912990 Dryer won't start

check motor (you have 2.4 Kohm ) very high read
for motor must be lower.Check capacitor if hawe.

Feb 15, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Jvm1190 over range micro/convection oven

If the hood vent exhaust fan came on by itself, that was due to excessive heat on stove top, a failure of the hood TCO (thermal cutout / thermostat) or a problem on the control circuit board (smart board) which we regularly repair for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.


At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

In this model, there are three TCOs which could be open, rendering the oven dead: The bottom TCO (not to be confused with the hood TCO, which should be normally open) the heater TCO and the magnetron TCO.

Also, the fuse should be checked in the unit.

Accessing some components for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

After you look into this, if you still need help, please write back with more details.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help or see our Web site.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. "Ed" Miller, AS-EET

Feb 15, 2009 | GE JVM1790 Convection / Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite dryer won't heat but otherwise operates normally

Make sure you have 220V. The dryer will work (no heat) if only getting 110V. Check your thermostats with your Ohm meter. Mkae sure plug is disconnected and you disconnect thermostat wires. Should have continuity. Just because you have checked your heating element and you have continuity that does not mean it is good. How can this be? Easy, sometimes they (coil in heating element) break and arch against the housing or ceramic insualtors (depending on model) and you will have continuity. This just happened to mine and without a visual inpsection of the heating element do not aaume it is good.

Jan 07, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units

This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:

1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.

Dryer Does Not Run At All:

Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer won't turn on

its a thermal fuse open up the back make sure you unplug it and turn off the gas its on your lower left side of your blower housing its skinny and white and about a inch in a half long and has 2 connectors going to it if any problems let me know

Mar 28, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Dryer

If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?

If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.

Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.

If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.

Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.

Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.

Jan 15, 2008 | LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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