Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Dryer will not start.

This is a Kenmore Model Stock # 86993110. The start button has been checked, and tested ok. Is the TCO located behind the lower front panel of the unit, and if so what is the best way to get the panel off with no damage/ and easy reinstallation. Thanks for the great site and helpful information.

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The TCO for your dryer is located behind the lower front panel under the door. The panel can be removed by inserting a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the front cabinet about 2 inches in from each side. There are two retaining clips that you need to depress with the putty knife to remove the panel. Once the panel is removed, locate the heater box on the right hand side under the drum. The TCO and hi-limit thermostat are located on the left hand side of the heat box, with the TCO being the component located farthest to the REAR of the dryer. There are drawings available at searspartsdirect.com or appliancepartspros.com to assist you. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (inlcude the "110." prefix) and you will find the heating circuits located under the "Bulkhead" heading.

Now...if your dryer is not starting, the TCO probably isn't the cause. The TCO, if bad, will only affect the heating circuits. More commonly, the THERMAL FUSE is a likely suspect if the dryer fails to start. It is located as item number 59 under the "Bulkhead" section and is installed on the air blower housing directly under the drum. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off. Make sure you disconnect the wire leads to make any resistance checks to rule out false readings caused by parallel paths. The Thermal Fuse should read close to a short if good.

The following link can provide you with more assistance with isolating your problem (if needed):

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385301-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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Have a Kenmore Model 80 Electric home clothes dryer and it won't start and light won't turn on. It is about 8yrs old. Checked breaker and still no power. Is it likely thermal fuse? If yes, where/what is...


Yes that would definitely be a thermal fuse problem. Take the rear panel off your dryer and look down at the lower left where the blower housing assembly is there will be a white rectangle looking thermostat with 2 blue wires going to it that is your thermal fuse. Unplug the 2 blue wires and then you will have to remove the screw which will be a phillips head or 1/4 bolt then the thermal fuse will slide out you need the model number off the dryer which is located on the top left of the dryer behind the door take that to your local appliance parts store which they carry that in stock and just replace using the same steps above.

Jan 04, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 series model 110-66752500


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer not heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Begin by verifying the wall receptacle for the proper voltage. If the voltage is not reading between 220-240VAC, this will also give you the same symptoms.

Cleaning out the lint is a good start, but if the lint has accumulated over a period of time, the dryer may have overheated. This usually results in the thermal cut-out (TCO) blowing. The TCO acts as a fuse and once it blows, it must be replaced. Your heating element will be located in the heater box on the right hand side of the dryer with the back panel removed. The TCO will be located at the top end of the heater box, while the hi-limit thermostat will be located adjacent to the ceramic heating element terminals. If the TCO proves to be faulty, replace the TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. The two components are usually sold as a set as part number 279816. You can find these parts at searspartdirect.com or appliancepartspros.com under the "Bulkhead Parts" section as item number 1. Just use you model number for your search criteria. Failure to replace both parts may result in premature failure of any replaced components.

Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions. Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If kept in a clogged condition, the dryer will continue to overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this is a fire hazard. I hope this helps you.

Jun 01, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Push Button to start and nothing happens.


Hi, The first thing you want to check is that the dryer has power to it. Then check the non resetable fuse. On most models the fuse is located in back of the dryer behind the rear panel.
Once you remove the rear panel, you will see the fuse located on the blower housing (White in color). Take continuity on the fuse. If the fuse has continuity, it is ok. If you an not access the fuse from the back, remove the front lower panel and the fuse is again located on the blower housing.
Other possibilities are door switch, timier, & motor. The fuse is most common problem!!
If I can help further, please let me know.

Thanks
Vic

May 12, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will not start


Forgot to check the thermal fuse. Now working after changing fuse.

Mar 21, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Series Model 11060912990 Dryer won't start


check motor (you have 2.4 Kohm ) very high read
for motor must be lower.Check capacitor if hawe.

Feb 15, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Series ~ Model # 66912690 Electric Dryer, spins but does NOT heat, any suggestions what the problem could be?


The following link explains the dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Make sure you perform all component checks with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper dryer ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation that leads to dryer overheating to the point of failure. If you can't remember the last time you had your ventilation checked or cleaned, I would recommend you do so before replacing any failed components. Failure to do so may result in undesired drying results and premature failure of any components you have replaced.

The most common cause of dryer heat failure is a blown thermal cut-out (TCO). This component acts as a fuse and will blow when an overheat condition occurs. If it is determined that the TCO is bad, it is strongly recommended that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of replaced components. In many cases, the manufacturer sells these parts as a set (more cost effective to purchase this way, too). Both these components are located on the heater box adjacent to the heating element.

To access, remove the lower panel under the dryer door. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife along the seam at the top of the panel about two inches in from each side. There is a retaining clip that needs to be depressed to release the panel. With the panel removed, the heating circuits are located on the right hand side under the drum. You can view drawings of your dryer at searspartsdirect.com by entering your model number. Use model number "110.66912690" for your search criteria. The heating circuits are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading. The heating element is listed as item number 14. The thermal cut-out is listed as item 47 and the hi-limit thermostat is item 48. NOTE: You can find the TCO and hi-limit thermostat sold as a set at appliancepartspros.com as part number AP3094224 (Your Kenmore dryer is manufactured by Whirlpool). This could save you some $ if one of these components is your problem.

If you have questions along the way, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jan 12, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite dryer won't heat but otherwise operates normally


Make sure you have 220V. The dryer will work (no heat) if only getting 110V. Check your thermostats with your Ohm meter. Mkae sure plug is disconnected and you disconnect thermostat wires. Should have continuity. Just because you have checked your heating element and you have continuity that does not mean it is good. How can this be? Easy, sometimes they (coil in heating element) break and arch against the housing or ceramic insualtors (depending on model) and you will have continuity. This just happened to mine and without a visual inpsection of the heating element do not aaume it is good.

Jan 07, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer-Model#66914691


possible you blown the thermal overload fuse located on back wall of unit behind rear panel, small 2" long saftey fuse, if blown will prevent dryer from operating

Nov 11, 2008 | Kenmore 62872 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units


This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

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its a thermal fuse open up the back make sure you unplug it and turn off the gas its on your lower left side of your blower housing its skinny and white and about a inch in a half long and has 2 connectors going to it if any problems let me know

Mar 28, 2008 | Dryers

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