Question about Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range
What does F11 error code mean
The "F11" fault code indicates a shorted button on the electronic oven control. This means the oven control board will likely need to be removed and replaced. You could disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. If "F11" returns upon power-up, replace the electronic oven control board (EOC). but if i had your model number i could nail it right on the head with a fix...
Posted on Dec 13, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The F93 shows that the Maximum oven door lock time has been exceeded.
Turn off the range and turn off the AC power and wait for up to 10 mins. The door should reopen. Turn on the AC power ans see if the error persists. If it does then check the following.
1. Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.
2. Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.
3. Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.
4. Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.
5. Lock Motor continuosly runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.
6. Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.
7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
It appears your clock has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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Posted on Sep 25, 2010
F90 Maximum oven door unlock time exceeded.
F91 Maximum oven door unlock attempts exceeded.
F92 Maximum oven door open time exceeded.
F93 Maximum oven door lock time exceeded.
F94 Maximum oven door lock attempts exceeded.
1. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.
2. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.
3. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.
4. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.
5. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Lock Motor continuously runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.
6. (F92, 93 & 94) Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.
7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.
F90 is a door lock code, Try this...
unplug the range.
wait 1 minute.
turn the range back on,
then while holding in on the oven door.
start another self clean.
wait 2 minutes.
then cancel the self clean.
do not release the door until the door lock light goes out.
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Posted on Sep 25, 2010
I'm not sure if the error codes are the same for gas ranges as they are for electric, but this is the solution for that same error code with the electric version. you might give it a try with yours and see if it works the same for gas as well (I would assume the electronics are similar between the two).
you probably don't need to replace any parts to solve this problem. E1 -F2- = the keytail (connector ribbon) that plugs into the control board is not making good contact. first unplug your range and then remove the two screws on the underside of the back-splash controls panel to access the back of the control board. now simply cut a slip of heavy paper such as a business card to the width of the ribbon and slide it into the slot along with the ribbon connector. that will help press the contacts on the other side together snuggly. screw the back-splash back in place, plug in your range, and the problem might vanish. if the error code returns, try pulling out the connector, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser, reinserting it into the slot and repeat above with the paper.
the paper trick worked for me for about two weeks, then the problem happened again. the next fix I tried was to unplug the keytail (the ribbon connector) from the slot on the control panel. there is a clip in each side of the black plastic receptacle (the place where the keytail plugs in on the electronics control board). pres them inward to separate the top portion of the receptacle, which I think helps to clamp the keytail into the bottom portion. the top and bottom fit tightly together, so you might need to use a small screwdriver at the joint to pry them apart, however, I did not find it necessary to remove that clamp in order to remove or replace the keytail on mine.
smoke and other sticky cooking fumes cling to the contact wires on the keytail and the pins in the receptacle (as well as other surfaces) and that buildup interferes with the electrical connection they need to make. once the keytail is free, clean it well with a mild cleanser (I used a slightly soapy, damp dish sponge) and dry it with a clean paper towel. FYI, one side of the keytail has the exposed wires which make contact with pins in the receptacle on the control board. the exposed side is on the inside surface of the curled keytail ribbon, the outside surface is translucent plastic insulation (you can feel that the outside is smoother than the inside because the inside has the contact wires exposed). the inside is the side you want to make sure is clean because those are the wires that need to make electrical contact with the pins in the receptacle.
next, use sharp scissors to carefully trim a small uniform strip (roughly 1/16 of an inch or less) off the end of the keytail. then plug it in again (remembering to use the top portion of the receptacle to secure it in if you had removed it). doing this provides a fresh spot on the exposed wires to make contact with the pins in the receptacle. my theory is that over time the wires wear out at the points where they make contact with the pins. trimming the edge allows you to insert the keytail deeper into the receptacle and therefore, the pins will contact the wires in the keytail at a new, unworn spot. it's been over a week now and so far, it seems to have fixed the problem on my stove. if I get the error message again in the future, my next step will be to try paper trick again (at least as a temporary solution), but I doubt it will be necessary any time soon.
be sure to try all other solutions first before ordering any parts. I first changed the control board for $125 and there was no change. then I ordered the touchpad, but ended up fixing the problem before it arrived. I sent the touchpad part back to Sears Parts Direct after I figured out I didn't need it and they eventually refunded $15 less than I'd paid. of that difference, $13 and change was for shipping, so the other dollar plus must have been a miscalculation or a restocking charge or something, but I didn't bother following up to find out. I also had to pay about $3 to ship it back to them via USPS because I didn't hear the UPS guy when he dropped it off on the doorstep, so I wasn't able to simply refuse the delivery.
good luck with your repair.
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
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