Question about White Sewing Speedylock 1600 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Stitch and looper problems

Stitches and loops do not form on finger. Thread stays straight behind foot and fabric is not stitched at all. Serger is threaded correctly. This happens using either one or two needles. I have threaded and rethreaded over and over again to no avail.

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Re: stitch and looper problems

Hi softy...please regain your patience and optimism and I'll do my best to help you correct the issues that are plaguing your serger. It is obvious that you are skilled in your craft and operation of your serger, so I have very little doubt that we have a minute issue that's causing your headaches, so I'd like to begin with the very basics, and as we communicate through our posts we can advance until we resolve your issue. Your confidence tells me that you do not have a threading error, and as you have experienced in the past, thread that lays down while leaving the presser foot commonly indicates improper or no tension on the blades. I have a feeling that you have color coded "marks" on your tension dial's for standard settings per fabric/weight. So let's turn all of your tension dials to maximum. Ensure that your presser foot lever is in the full up position, and lay your thread between the tension discs, of a single tension dial that you want to begin with. After visually verifying that your thread is thoroughly between discs, lower your presser foot, grasp either ends of your thread, and "floss" the tension. Do you feel appropriate resistance being applied on the thread? If yes, repeat the same steps until you have cycled all 4 tensioners. If you did not, or do not feel appropriate tension on any or all of your discs, then the following arm, located in the head, immediately above your presser foot lever has become lodged, and is not releasing. Using lightweight sewing machine oil, apply 1 drop at a time on the following arm, and using your fingers, work at it until it becomes free. If you have determined that you do not have any tension issues...on the serger...not your mind hehe...then open the blade cover. Turn the serger 90 degrees so that you are looking at it from the head facing you. Examine the trueness of your blades, meaning, do any blades look bent either towards the serger or away from the serger? If yes, I'm sure you know what you need to do. However, if they do appear to be true, then get a piece of toilet tissue, and separate it so that it becomes single ply. Place the single ply of tissue on any finger, ensuring that it is smooth and taut, and gently press against your blades and rub them back and forth using slow even strokes. If you felt any resistance, stuttering or tearing of the tissue, repeat again with a new tissue to verify what you had felt. If you did discover any verified flaw using this know what you need to do. Please update your post after you have completed these first steps regardless of resolution or not, so that other's with similar issues can gain the information of your experience, and perhaps not have to endure post-tag-you're-it-and-wrong and correct their issues on their own. I will monitor your post, and should we need to advance our troubleshooting, I will update you within 1 day of your follow-up post.....good luck my friend.

Posted on Aug 03, 2007

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Re: stitch and looper problems

CHECK your bobbin it needs to be replace probably it is broken or worn out

Posted on Jun 16, 2007

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Pushing material away, but still overlocking

It is difficult to tell what exactly is happening with your serger.

First thing--make sure you RAISE the presser foot BEFORE you thread any of the threads. This releases the tension disks so the threads will seat properly. You may need to remove all the threads and rethread from the beginning, making sure you thread each in the proper order. Start out with the thread tensions set at the ideal setting--usually the halfway point between the high & low numbers. From there, you will adjust them to even up the thread tensions.

Are you actually trimming off some of the fabric as it is stitching? If so, you might try increasing the cutting width (moves the cutting edge further toward the right) so that there is more fabric caught within the looper threads. It also appears that the looper tensions may be too loose. Try tightening the upper and lower looper tensions so less of the thread loops don't fall off the fabric's raw edge.

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Dec 30, 2015 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

I just got a new Janome 8002d serger. Why does it make a clicking noise when I begin to serge and then it goes to straight stitching that comes unsewn.

I don't have a Janome, but you might check your threading to see if it's correct, lucky you to get a new one!!!

Mar 05, 2015 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Brother 1034d serger skipping stitches. Stitches are loose even when adjusting the tension.

It appears that there are two issues: skipping stitches, and, loose stitches. Let's deal with them individually but first some general points to check.
1. Change both needles for completely fresh ones out of the package. Make sure that they are inserted all the way up, this is very important. The right needle should appear longer than the left one. Make sure also that you are using the correct needles for your serger.
2. Use a good quality thread with very little stretch, almost no fuzzies, and in pastel colour. Dark thread ages quicker, therefore has a shorter shelf live. A good quality sewing machine thread is also acceptable.
3. Make sure that the tension dials are clean and free of lint or other debris.
4. Re-thread the serger in this order, keeping the presser foot in the down position at all times
a) Upper looper. Ensure that the thread is securely embedded inside the tension discs. Place the thread tail under the presser foot to 11:00 o'clock and place the presser foot down again
b) Lower looper. This is the difficult one to thread but make sure that all the thread guides are properly threaded as well as the upper looper elbow. Check that the thread is lodged between the tension discs. Once the lower looper eye is threaded, place the thread in front and over the upper looper and then under the presser foot to 11:00 o'clock and place the presser foot down again.
c) Right Needle. Thread the right needle path, again ensuring that the thread is between the tension discs. Place the thread tail under the presser foot to 11:00 o'clock and lower the presser foot.
d) Left Needle. Proceed as with left needle.
e) Double check that all tension dials have their respective threads embedded between the discs by pulling firmly up on each thread above the tension dials.
f) Check that the stitch length is set to between 2.5 and 3.0, differential to normal, blade position to middle, blade is engaged, and upper looper converter not in use.
g) Set tensions to recommended setting for 4-thread overlock.
g) Make a test stitch out. How is it? Still having the same issue/s?
If yes, continue with the items listed below, otherwise have a great time serging.

Skipping Stitches:
1. Check that the looper tips are smooth. Burrs will cause problems.
2. Check that the needles match the type of fabric being sewn.

Loose Stitches:
1. Double check threading.
2. Debris caught between tension discs will also manifest itself in loose stitches. Take an 8" X 6" piece of medium weight clean and lint free cotton fabric, fold it in half length-wise and pass the fold only firmly between the tension discs from top to bottom (with the presser foot up and no thread in the tension dials).

Re-thread and test stitch. How is it now?

Sep 30, 2014 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Serger is not stitching

... not quite sure what you mean by "not stitching", here are a few things to check. If the problem is more specific, please leave me a note with more details.
Let's start right from the beginning (for 4-thread overlock/serge):
1. According to the serger manual, ensure that the proper needles are being used. That they are inserted all the way up into their positions and that the flat side of the needle is facing away from you. The left needle will appear to be shorter that the right, that is OK, all is going perfectly.
2. Use four good quality spool of serger thread (good quality sewing thread is fine also) and place them on the spool or cone holders. There should be "little bucket looking things" that fit onto the cone pins to make the cones sit nice and straight, use them. Rattling thread will cause grief.
3. The first thread to be loaded onto the serger is the Upper Looper is the big needle looking thing that swings left to right and back again above the sewing surface. Follow all the threading guided according to your manual, the threading guides are generally coded in a colour specific for this looper. Once the eye of the Upper Looper is threaded, place the thread under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
4. Next is the Lower Looper, the big needle looking thing that swings left to right and back again under the sewing surface. It can be a bit tricky in some sergers as the thread need to pass to the left and then back to the right under the sewing surface. Your manual should have a good diagram if you can not follow the threading guides on the serger itself. Again the threading guides are generally colour coded with a different colour but specific for the Lower Looper. Once the looper is threaded, it is important that the thread is placed directly OVER the Upper Looper as it comes out of the eye of the Lower Looper. Place the thread now under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
5. Thread the right needle front to back and place the thread under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
6 Thread the left needle front to back and place the thread under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
7. Hold the four thread ends firmly in the left hand and give each thread individually a good pull down over the serger and behind, this will ensure that the threads are all engaged in the tension dials.
8. Set the tensions to the middle number, although this may vary with the brand and model of your serger. If you have the manual check for the correct settings specific to your unit.
9. Set differential to 'normal', or '0' (if your unit has one)
10. Set stitch length to about 2 1/2 to 3.
11. Make sure that the blade is in cutting position. We can trouble shoot blade position later if needed.
12. Make sure that you have the overlocking plate installed ... not the rolled hem plate (if your serger has two plates). Some sergers use the same plate for both functions.
13. Using two layers of medium weight fabric do a test stitch, what is the result? Is a chain forming? Are there stitches on the fabric? Are they looking the way they should?
Hopefully this has helped you, please let me know.

Sep 01, 2014 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

WHy is my Husqvarna Viking 560 serger is skipping stitches????

Here are a few things to try.
1. Make sure that correct type of needles are being used, both are the same size, and that the needle size matches the fabric weight. This is the first serger to use 15X1 needles.
2. Make sure that the needles are installed correctly and are pushed all the way up. Have you replaced the old needles with new ones, not other used ones?
3. Thread has a shelf life, it can expire over-night. Just to eliminate this possibility, replace all threads with fresh good quality serging thread (and not just another spool which was purchased some time ago).
4 It sounds like you have re-threaded the serger correctly according to manual instructions. Here is a sure fire method:
- thread the upper looper and place the thread behind the needles under the presser foot. Make sure that the thread is lying firmly between the tension discs.
- thread the lower looper (the tricky one). Check that the thread is between the tension discs as before and place the thread over the upper looper and then behind the needles, and under the presser foot.
- thread the needles, checking that the thread is between the corresponding tension discs. Place the thread under the presser foot.
5. Check stitch length.
6. Check if the problem persists with other fabric types, use two layers. If the problem occurs with only a particular fabric, then the cause is incorrect needles.
7. Check tips on both upper and lower loopers. They should be free of burs, smooth, and have a semi-sharp point.
Hopefully this will solve your problem, if not it may be time to have it inspected by a qualified technician.
Please rate how effective were these suggestion in solving your problem, it is important to me.

May 13, 2014 | Brother XL-2610

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?

I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

2 Answers

My brand new Kenmore serger model 16677 was working correctly until a broken thread caused me to re-thread it. Since then I have rethreaded it correctly numerous times and each time I try to chain off...

The loopers must be threaded before the needles.

Make sure that the needles are not threaded. Thread the loopers and have the loose ends behind the presser foot. Then re-thread the needles and place a scrap of fabric under the foot and sew. Make sure that the edge of the fabric is not to the right of the plate, but where it would be if the knife had cut it.

Jun 14, 2009 | Kenmore 16622 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

P.s. transport blocks

Is the hook you are referring to on the needle plate (stitch finger) and the stitches form around it or does it move side to side while sewing (looper).
If thread is hanging on the fingers on the plate there is probably a rough edge that they are sticking on. You may also have a crack in the plate that is not allowing the fabric to go through and the stitches stack up. Remove the foot and check for a crack in the plate. With the foot on you won't be able to see it.
If hanging on a looper, it is out of position or you may be threaded wrong.

Mar 20, 2009 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 905

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