Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
If you look at control box at roof unit, they usually use a separate set of wires for furnace. See what colors they are attached to at harness to thermostat. Some just follow other harness, and come out at thermostat. (bypass control box) Once you've determined which 2 they are, join them together & see if furnace starts, as it should. If it does, thermostat is faulty. If not, pull outside cover off & check voltages at furnace. I'm guessing by furnace model that your unit is approx 30 ft , but if it's a park model, you may have 24 volt system on furnace or 12 volt. Another way of confirming is to go to back of furnace where air intake grille is inside your unit, and locate 2 blue wires going to furnace & remove whatever wires are attached to them & connect them together. Furnace should start up.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks for the link. info solved my problem."
your switch should be oopen but when it reaches 41 degrees it should open so the system shuts off before it damages the compresor by sludging it, i have the same unit and my compresor runs for 5 seconds and shuts off, i checked the amp draw at the compresor and it draws 21 22 amps trying to start after the initial 5 second run, but it wont come on againts a load so the comprresos equilizes and tries to start over again with out positive results. i bipass the external obverload on top of compresor terminals area, still no fix yet, the relay on the control board continious to send power to the compresor and still draws , so if there is a problem with the control relay i would open up and dont send power to the compresor so i dont think is the relay, i am a a/c service man for
35 years and do this for a living still today, by experience i think it is the compresor gone bad but will try by passing the relay just to see what happens, also it could be bad capacitor since it have a hard start relay and start capacitor (black )also a run (silver ) capacitor they check ok, there is no way to check the charge unles you install a saddle tap to check presures and rechage this unit i think the compresor replacement is the way to go ( around 250) plus labor and freon r22 e mail add email@example.com.
Posted on May 06, 2010
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