I bought this last week and so far, the performance has been extremely disappointing. Generally, it starts OK although it doesn't seem possible to re-start a warm engine from the ''run'' position- it always has to go back to full throttle.
The main problem is the vac & in particular the blower. Advertised as 155mph, I thought there would be a seriously strong gale coming out of the vac. Instead, when I put my hand over the tubes, it is barely stronger than my wifes hairdryer. This is brand new and the tubes are not clogged - I checked. Any suggestions?
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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recalibration is sometimes caused by manufacturers using previous years ecm / pcm software. the optimum values sometimes differ if upgraded sensors are being used. although sensor values should not change much, sometimes cumulative differences or even differences in one sensor vs computer (ecm/pcm) software can lead to less than optimum performance or fuel economy.
conversely, software updates in the ecm/pcm can cause the same performance issues but are less likely.
If the red light flashes for a while, with a clicking noise while trying to turn on. It's either the ysus or xsus board, they are both easy to replace, my xsus board has blown twice, last board I bought off ebay £35 lasted 2 years. Just bought another for £16 + free postage.
If you can use a screwdriver & disconnect/connect a few ribbon cables & connectors, you'll save yourself £££s
google or search youtube for video guides, you won't be disappointed ;)
telltale signs are when the tv starts to make a clicking off/on sound while watching tv, without actually turning off, That's the time to look for a spare ysus or xsus board, before it blows. It could last months or weeks but better to be safe.
Takes me 15mins to take the back off, replace the board & put the back back on. & I'm a novice.
Clearly your machine isn't performing as promised and perhaps should have been sent back to the supplier as defective within a reasonable time.
Modern cold fill washers use less water but modern detergents are quite effective, though in spite of this the programmes of necessity are extraordinarily long, initially the main complaint of new users who felt something was wrong when the shortest programmes were taking around an hour and longer programmes the equivalent of a short holiday...
I suggest you read the instructions thoroughly to ensure you are doing everything correctly including using enough detergent. When you are certain the machine is faulty you should contact the supplier if still under warranty or the service engineer if not.
not quite sure where to get the parts, but if the pressure starts out ok and decreases as it runs, it is generally that the piston rings/seals are worn out, this can happen just from sitting up over the winter.
You can google Honda Pressure Washer Parts to find a supplier for the seals/rings
BOB you dont say whethert your boat was under repairs or whether the unit was permanently connected. Soemtimes when the battery terminals are removed on the boat while in storage or reapirs a spike can occur and damage the unit. If the unit has a backup batterty check that its OK. you did not state the brand so its going to be a general answer. If you have spiked the chip then an expensive repair is needed.