Question about Kenwood KDC-MP228 CD Player

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Kenwood Head Unit Making a Loud Popping Noise at the Start and Finish of each track

I have recently wired up a Kenwwod head unit to a clarion 4-channel amp feeding a 12inch clarion sub and a pair of 6.5inch splits. My problem is that at the start and finish of every track, there is a loud popping noise (The track plays the music perfect for the whole track). I have double checked all the connections and wiring loom and all seems to be fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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My mate had the same problem with his stereo in his case it was power related if u are usin crimp connections or any other form of connection to the speakers or the subs that is not a soldered joint it could be that we had to re wire his system with soldered joints and it worked ok. but other than that it could also be ur wires themselves with power cutting out cos the poppin sounds to me like the power cuttin out or in. other than that i really cant think of anything hopefully that helps

Posted on Jun 20, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The "Front output" from the Pioneer deck would connect to the "Main In" on the Clarion EQ. I'm assuming that your Clarion EQ can only deal with one input, and will send the adjusted (equalized) signal out both of the outputs.
The "Front output" from the Clarion EQ should go to the "Front Input" on the 4 channel amp.
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A 4 ohm DVC sub can be wired in series like you described for an 8 ohm load or the voice coils can be wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load.

If your 2-channel amp isn't stable down to 2 ohms when the channels are bridged (most 2-channel amps are only stable to 4 ohms when bridged), you do not want the voice coils paralleled. The amp will overheat, go into protection mode, and eventually fail completely. A sub with 2 ohm voice coils would be a better fit. That way, you could series the coils for a 4 ohm load and the amp would operate OK with the channels bridged into that load.

But anyway, for the best power from THAT amp to THAT sub, your best wiring solution would be to wire each voice coil to a separate channel. The problem with that is that the signal to each coil needs to be EXACTLY the same or you will have one coil trying to move the cone out while the other one tries to move it in. You can closely approximate identical signals on the output side by using the same input to both channels. Do this by using only one RCA connection (either right or left channel) from your head unit and split it with a "Y" cable.

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Ummmm Im gonna give this a try-If it were me i would run the 4 channel ground pounder on the doors and rear panels -the front 2 channels run the component set exclusively at 2 ohms per channell and run the 8 inch 3 ways in parallel with the rear deck speakers for a combined load of 2 ohms per channel on the rear channells-naturally the 8 inchers and the 6.5's are going to be able to handle a little bit more bottom end than the component set so you can feed a little more midbass to those rear channels- I dont know the resistance of the coils on your subs or the model of the MA amp you are using but if you can throw 600 or 700 on your subs that should be sweet enough- hope its not a waste of your time or maybe you already tried it set up that way-good luck though

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The basic would be to wire the sub amp to your batteries with the trigger/remote wire powered by your car stereo/head unit. When your head unit is turned on it will in turn power up the sub amp. Of course the sub woofer need to be wired to the amp. For the signal/audio wiring, normally, the head unit has a stereo RCA female connectors at the rear intended to be connected to external amps through a pair of shielded/audio cable terminated both ends with RCA males. Some units have a special RCA specifically for subs. Most eternal amps also uses RCA for their inputs.

If the existing car audio system has already an external amp and your plan is to add on to this, the audio/signal from the head unit could be split to provide both for the existing and the new sub amp.

If the existing car audio does not have an external amp and their are no RCA connectors at the rear of the head unit, it is still possible to connect an external/add on amp by using an adapter that connects to the speaker wires of the head unit and converting it out to line level (through RCAs) appropriate for the input of the amp.

Hope this be of help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information. it would also be nice if you can post brand/model of your head unit and intended sub amp.

Good luck and kind regards.

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