Question about GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

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I have a JGBP28. The igniter was replaced by landlord - I wasn't here. I believe the original igniter was round. It was replaced with flat. Now, I get a glow, the gas comes, and the over fills with gas until there is a whoosh and mini explosion - unless I open the door early and create a backdraft to cause it to light. Both dangerous. Please tell me the igniter this model takes.

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Kitchen aid convection range bake igniter stays on

Pull the igniter out and see if there is a short to ground on the wire. If none is found, replace the igniter. Here is the part to order.

Jan 20, 2013 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

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GE JGBP28 kitchen range

The problem is commonly caused by a weak or failed oven igniter. Igniters grow weak with age and occasionally need to be replaced. Just because an igniter glows, does not mean it is good. If you are experiencing longer ignition times, this is most likely the case. The following link explains a little theory about these igniters and how to replace one:

If only one oven feature fails to work, but the surface igniters still operate, your problrem is not a gas related as both the surface and oven are fed from the same source. Each oven manifold has a separate igniter, so it is most likely a single igniter problem.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also offer helpful exploded view diagrams to help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The part number for the model you have listed is WB2X9154.

If you have any qiuestions please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Mar 29, 2010 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

My gas range's oven piezo-electric igniter is not working.

it must be a problem of spark distribution try to remove the spark plug from your piezo electric igniter and clean it throughly it must work otherwise it will have to be replaced

Feb 25, 2010 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Hello - I ran out of propane - How do I light the ignition?

Your range is electric ignition and should not require any relighting. There may be air in the line and can be purged at the cook top burners. Just turn the burner knob on until it starts clicking and let it click until the burner ignites. The oven and broiler will then light normally.

Feb 05, 2010 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Two of the burners on the left side doesn't light.

If you small gas, then there should be gas to burners, If you are hearing a clicking, but doesn't light, then your igniter may be corroded or faulty all to gether. You can get parts and manual at

Oct 22, 2009 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven won't light

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


Sep 24, 2009 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

GE JGBS10 Oven does not heat

Most gas oven systems today are ‘electronic ignition’, and use a ‘glowbar’ type ignitor electrically in series with an oven valve. Electrical current passing through the ignitor operates a small heater that ‘warps’ an internal piece of bimetal to open the gas valve. As long as the burner flame continues to heat the ignitor, its electrical resistance remains low enough to keep the valve turned on. If, for any reason, the flame is extinguished, the igniter's resistance increases and the valve turns off the gas to the burner.
While the valves are very reliable, the igniters have become the most common parts failure on these systems. Which is to be expected, I guess; they’re doing their job in a gas flame!
Igniters come in two basic types, ‘flat’ and ‘round’, seen below, and they can’t be interchanged.


this is a round one


this is a round one

Each type operates at a particular amperage level, and is matched to the type gas valve it operates. The stainless steel ‘cages’ that protect them usually correspond to their actual shape, which helps you figure out which one yours uses. And to make it even easier, there’s pretty much only One round one that fits them all. Flat ones vary only in the length of the ceramic block to which they’re mounted. Electrically they’re nearly all the same.
While it’s possible to diagnose one of these systems using an ammeter, it usually isn’t necessary. Since I try to keep life simple, and since these igniters have really dropped in price the last few years, it’s pretty easy to figure out what’s up with your cold oven.
If your oven doesn’t light, but you see the ignitor glowing, it will most likely be glowing a very dull red and not drawing enough current to operate the valve. Or, in some cases, it will operate the valve very slightly and you’ll smell some gas odor. Neither case is desirable or acceptable!

Watch a clock or stopwatch. If it takes more than 2 minutes to light, you’ll want to replace the ignitor; it’s the culprit in 90% of these. And this is the best way for you to diagnose your ignition system! In most cases, that’s all there is to it. You don’t even have to worry about wire polarity on the new ignitor – they can be wired either way. Just be sure it’s wired like the old one, and not connected to 120V directly, or it will burn out. Ignitor and valve must be in series with each other, or you’ll burn out one or both, fast!
If you’ve replaced the ignitor and it glows but the oven still doesn’t light, it’s time for a new valve. They’re pricier, but I usually recommend doing this once in a range’s life if necessary. Still much cheaper than a new range.

If there’s no ‘glow’ at all, take a close look at the ignitor, and you’ll often see a crack, or it may even be obvious that it’s broken apart. You can use an ohmmeter to test for continuity if no cracks are visible.

Just be sure to power the range down. In some models, one side of the oven valve is always ‘hot’ with respect to ground, like some electric range bake element terminals.
New igniters ship with two ceramic wire nuts, and you simply connect the new part’s wires to the originals, using the original plug if yours has one.
A bit of hi-temp. grease on the mounting screws will be a big help if you have to repeat this job in the future. These screws are subject to very high heating, and can ‘freeze’ into their threads so tightly you’d like to blast to get them out sometimes!

thank you

Apr 06, 2009 | GE JGBS10 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

GE XL44 oven will not work.

replace the [Glow light] the ignitor same thing, you see the ignitor most be super hot to open the safety valve.I have fix that problem many times before, very comment problem.

Nov 12, 2008 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Cooktop igniters

You need to replace your "spark module" because it shorted our most likely because it got wet.

Here is a good website to get the part from

Jun 24, 2008 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

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