Question about Kenmore 49972 Front Load Washer
It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.
If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.
Check this link to replace the inlet valve:
Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.
Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.
Please check the link below:
Posted on Dec 11, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Loud Knocking
this is a collapsed drum bearing, one of the most costly of the repairs apart from the timer and motor, not normally a job for the diy man unless has an engineering background, sorry, the cost of repair depends on the age and replacement cost of a machine, a bit like a car, would you buy an engine for a 20 year old car, if you have a machine thats expensive then the repair could be worth it? stop running it you will cause more damage both to the clothes and the machine sorry (ps i am a retired appliance engineer of 20 years service)
Posted on Sep 19, 2007
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
See the section for the basket and tub assembly's
I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.
See the following:
If the hoses are fine, I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.
If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.
If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.
(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.
Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.
Posted on Jan 24, 2010
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